Angelus U23 Carbon Cocktail Watch Review
The Angelus U23 Carbon Cocktail perpetuates the brand’s love of openworked architecture. However, where this series differs from the U20, U21 and U22 is that each watch is unique, encompassing various cocktail-themed hues. Each creation features an NPT carbon-fibre and titanium case and a flying tourbillon.
Angelus U20 Ultra-Skeleton Tourbillon (2016)
In March 2016, Angelus unveiled a new timepiece, the U20 Ultra-Skeleton Tourbillon. The model measured 42 mm in diameter and was endowed with a one-minute flying tourbillon. The wheels featured a double-spoke design and the barrel eschewed a conventional cover, affording views of the mainspring in various states of tension. The U20 Ultra-Skeleton Tourbillon was housed in a titanium and NPT carbon-fibre case. Most notably, the design of the timepiece conferred front-to-rear views, courtesy of its openworked design.
Angelus U21 – NPT carbon-fibre
Later, the Swiss brand released the U21, presented in a case made of NPT carbon-fibre and 18-carat red gold. The dial, again formed of NPT carbon-fibre, also served as the mainplate of the movement which imbued the watch with an altogether different character.
Angelus U22 – NPT carbon-fibre and titanium
Similar to its forebears, the case of the U22 is constructed of NPT carbon-fibre and titanium with the dial formed of NPT carbon-fibre, once again serving as the movement’s mainplate. The dial includes several red accents, infusing the composition with a dose of flamboyance.
Angelus U23 Carbon Cocktail – 8 unique pieces
Now, Angelus has enlarged its collection with the release of the new Angelus U23 Carbon Cocktail, comprising of eight unique pieces, each inspired by cocktails and presented in corresponding hues. In most cases, the double-spoke bridges, presented dial-side, are executed in one colour, however, the ‘Aviation’ and ‘Tequila Sunrise’ models employ different shades, delivering extraordinary eye-popping aesthetics.
Angelus U23 Carbon Cocktail – the brand’s press release
Following on from its U21 and U22 models, Angelus is presenting another variation based on its skeletonised flying tourbillon movement. The Angelus A-250 calibre has once again been suspended within a case made from titanium and CTP (Carbon Thin Ply): a hard and lightweight carbon composite. The U23 takes the spirit of exclusiveness and dynamic aesthetics to its pinnacle. This series of eight unique pieces features skeletonised PVD- treated titanium bridges, with each model showcasing a different colour.
Packing a punch
The U23 pieces make a tremendous impact. Materials, shapes and structures are arranged to create a sporty, technical and finely honed timepiece. Measuring 42 mm in diameter and 10.3 mm thick, the case mixes titanium lugs with a CTP case back and middle. Maximum lightness and rigidity, with ultra scratch-resistant titanium, provides physical protection for the most exposed areas. The solid, conventional-looking metal and the technical appearance of the carbon fibre inject the U23 with visual energy. Meanwhile coloured bridges, hovering above the CTP main plate, put these pieces in a class of their own.
Powerful tastes
Geometric, openworked and crafted from titanium, these graphically designed bridges are coloured using the PVD technique in one of eight shades that also grace the minute circle. Each shade identifies a unique piece named after a cocktail. These eight combinations – strong, sour, creamy, light, bitter or sweet – are the ingredients that make the U23 models unique. Angelus presents an eclectic menu with classics and rarities sitting side by side to cater to a range of tastes. U23 Negroni is orange, like the blend of Gin and Vermouth. U23 Cosmopolitan adopts the shade of blueberry Vodka. U23 Ocean View startles in Curaçao blue and U23 Tequila Sunrise recreates the orange, pink and blue layers formed by citrus fruit juice and grenadine with the idyllic sea in the background.
Powerful materials
The coloured bridges are screwed into the main plate, which is also made from CTP. Carbon Thin Ply draws on the ultralight and ultra-rigid properties of carbon fibre. Sheets of carbon are piled into several hundreds of successive layers per block of material. Each layer is orientated differently to create a multi-hatched network that is particularly solid given the density of the layers. Angelus has chosen to use the highest quality of this material: 150 g/m2 CTP. In addition, the CTP is solidified using a technical resin fired at a high temperature and high pressure. In this way, its extreme hardness adds to the fibre’s structural properties. CTP is made into blocks and cut from a solid piece using numerical control machines, just like a metal. Its nature, presentation and machining process ensures optimal structural integrity and unique qualities that enhance the watch mechanism and wearing comfort. This is because CTP is lightweight, comfortable, soft to the touch, anti-allergenic, fully dermo-compatible, and non-magnetic.
Structural strength
The Angelus A-250 calibre at the heart of the U23 models plays an essential aesthetic role. Its very simple, legible, vertical structure creates an axis that lends visual organisation. An openworked barrel at 12 o’clock with a 90-hour power reserve; a flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock for enhanced timekeeping; a gear train between the two to ensure transmission – these functional organs are anchored to three titanium bridges, giving the U23 its unique personality. Thanks to these bridges, the movement floats above the CTP main plate, as if suspended on stilts. The fact that the main plate is crafted from carbon is a technical feat in its own right. The rigidity of the material makes this possible; conversely, this same resistance makes it difficult to pierce. All the holes made in the high-tech bodywork are therefore set with solid-gold chatons that hold the jewels. This is a classic technique that has been adapted to a different context and to an extreme level of technical performance to protect the CTP main plate.
Delicacy
The U23, therefore, centres around an aerial principle. To continue this spirit, the tourbillon of the Angelus A-250 calibre is a flying version with no upper bridge. It appears to float freely, with a large window cut away from the main plate in the background. This allows light to enter and to illuminate the rotating regulating organ. In this rigorously adjusted movement, the arms of the tourbillon carriage mirror the bridges and all the wheels of the movement. All of these components are openworked lengthways, which means they look lighter, as well as weighing less. Crafted from technical materials and laid bare component by component, the U23 reveals impressive lightness and graphic power, both to the eye and on the wrist.
