Jaquet Droz SW Steel-Ceramic
The Jaquet Droz SW Steel-Ceramic is now available with a red fabric strap and a dial enlivened with soupçons of scarlet. Housed in a 45mm steel case and endowed with a ceramic bezel, this watch is sporty and contemporary, however, it is still appropriate for all social engagements.
Thumbing through a Jaquet Droz brochure, one can see that many models share the same design language. The hours and minutes are usually off-set, biased to the top of the dial while the seconds are presented in large format in the lower portion of the dial. The arrangement of the two off-set displays generally forms a figure of eight, a number which is considered lucky in China, a market the brand has served since the 18th century.
Jaquet Droz is not a mainstream watch brand, the distinctive styling and high-end specification of its models preclude mass appeal. Indeed, these watches are intended for the cognoscenti and other discerning souls.
There is a formality to the firm’s products. In fact, a Jaquet Droz owner is likely to be attired in a black tie ensemble. However, those horophiles with an inquisitive nature who choose to turn every page of a Jaquet Droz brochure will inevitably discover the brand’s Grande Seconde SW collection. These watches look sportier, contemporary and are much larger than many of the company’s other models.
Now there is a new addition to this family of models, the Jaquet Droz SW Steel-Ceramic. As its name suggests it features a stainless steel case with a black ceramic bezel. Measuring 45mm in diameter, this model is larger and bolder than its dressier siblings, however, the brand’s figure of eight dial is much in evidence. The crown is clad in rubber with ‘two large claws’ sitting either side of the dial, imbuing the composition with an air of robustness and masculinity.
Unlike most timepieces from the esteemed Maison, which have a tendency to be slightly understated, the Jaquet Droz SW Steel-Ceramic is notably conspicuous courtesy of its red tones. The fabric strap is presented in the ebullient hue while soupçons of scarlet grace the dial.
The brand’s press release
“Sport Watch” says it all. The SW by Jaquet Droz is an original, sporty and edgy creation. The contemporary signature of a watchmaker with almost three centuries of history. The SW is a Jaquet Droz testament to the power of the Grande Seconde’s unique design, how it transcends fads and centuries and constantly reinvents itself to delight a generation of collectors seeking out the latest thrills in watchmaking.
There is no shortage of emotion and thrill with the new SW Steel-Ceramic. One colour stands out before you even get to the details: red. This is the first time it has played such a prominent role on an SW, or a Jaquet Droz creation for that matter. The hand-edged fabric strap ties in with the Grande Seconde’s stroke at 6 o’clock, the tip of the hour and minute hands, and the quarter hour marks they sweep over – all coated with Super-LumiNova. Where they intersect, the red 5, 6 and 7 are written in Arabic numerals while the other numbers appear in Roman. Under this numerical trio, at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock, there are two crossbars firmly locking the iconic figure 8 formed by the hour-minute and Grande Seconde dials on the impressive 45 mm case.
Sized for everyday use, the steel case is covered with a black ceramic bezel that is inalterable and scratch-proof. The crown is screwed down at 3 o’clock making it water-resistant to 50 meters (5 bar). It’s also protected by a rubber cast for optimal handling. On either side, two large claws safeguard it from shocks. On the other side of the crossbridge, there is a symmetrical piece to make it achieve seamless balance and give the case maximum protection.
Like with every Jaquet Droz creation, this one showcases the painstaking work that goes into every finish. The lugs were hollowed to increase mass and create a sportier feel. They are polished to provide a mirror image of the SW collection’s signature fluted bezel. The claws at 3 and 9 o’clock were given a circular satin finish with grooves that follow the bezel’s curve. The 18-karat white gold appliqués affixed at the middle of the black lacquered dial have a satin finish with vertical lines. And the hands are hollowed to make it easier to read the hours and minutes.
As for the case-back, Jaquet Droz stayed true to its Fine Watchmaking finishes. Topped with an anti-reflective sapphire crystal, the SW Steel-Ceramic reveals the inner workings of the JD2663A-S self- winding mechanical movement with ruthenium treatment, the 18-karat white gold double barrel and oscillating weight, giving it a power reserve of almost three days (68 hours). The surfaces are polished or satin-finished and even adorned with Côtes de Genève alongside each watch’s own series number, a mark that Jaquet Droz makes these one-of-a-kind creations for collectors of uncommonly remarkable timepieces.
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