Chopard L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony
The Chopard L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony is enriched with various artistic crafts including Grand Feu enamelling, gem setting and Fleurisanne engraving. Moreover, beyond its pulchritudinous appearance, this exemplar of Haute Horlogerie is equipped with a highly refined automatic movement. Angus Davies explores the composition of this model in close detail.
Image – Copyright © Federal Studio
Writing about watches is not merely my profession, it is also a passion. My fascination for Haute Horlogerie is not restricted to design, habillage or movements, it embraces all of these areas and a multitude of additional disciplines as well. I often spend an inordinate amount of time with a loupe in hand, appraising the finissage presented. And then there is the matter of artistic crafts.
Artistic crafts, performed by talented master artisans are sometimes referred to as ‘Métiers d’Art’. They encompass hand-guilloché using a rose-engine lathe, hand engraving using a burin or scorper, gem-setting, various forms of enamelling including miniature painting, marquetry and many more examples I have long since forgotten.
A while ago, I sat in an office at Chopard’s headquarters in Geneva perusing various ‘novelties’ on display. To my host’s surprise, I gravitated towards the Chopard L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony and picked it up with glove-clad hands. Like a magpie, I was drawn to its gleaming gem-set case, vivid green strap and its prepossessing floral-themed dial.
I understand that some people may be surprised to hear a middle-aged man express such unbridled enthusiasm for a ladies’ watch, however, the profusion of artistic crafts found on this watch, along with its exquisitely appointed movement should resonate with any purist, irrespective of their gender. Indeed, the composition of the Chopard L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony deserves many column inches.
The dial – an overview
Individuals familiar with Chopard L.U.C models will recognise the Maison’s beloved Dauphine fusée hour and minute hands, on this occasion presented in gilded form. The hands stylishly convey the essentials of time without detracting from the artistic canvas positioned below.
The dial is adorned with a depiction of vibrantly-hued peonies. These large flowers are bold in temperament and synonymous with glamour and romance. They are set against a backdrop of other flowers, leaves and shades of baby blue. It is impossible not to stare.
This floral scene is imparted to enamel using miniature painting, a technique that dates back to the first half of the 17th century, often referred to as Grand Feu. To create the dial is a protracted process requiring the expertise of a seasoned professional. Each element of a scene such as pink blooms is imparted to enamel using a fine, or sometimes single-haired brush. Thereafter, the painted scene is subjected to firing at a high temperature. The result is a deep lustrous surface that will not fade with the onset of years.
Unusually, while many Maisons outsource this task to industry specialists, Chopard has the necessary skills within its ranks, yet another example of the brand’s in-house approach to watchmaking.
The miniature painting and Grand Feu enamel
Everything starts with a dial blank. Enamel is made from silica and crushed oxides to form coloured powders. Prior to any miniature painting taking place, a background colour has to be imparted to the blank.
Firstly, the dial blank is dipped in an alcohol-based liquid and the enamel powder, in this instance, creamy-white in colour, is dusted onto the top and underside of the blank. The alcohol helps the powder adhere to the blank until the firing process melts and fuses it with the base or other layers.
The reason for applying a layer to both sides of the dial is to prevent it from buckling during the firing process. The oven usually operates at about 800°C, but the precise temperature is determined by the type of enamel used. The firing time is not defined but based on the artisan’s experience. Once the dial is removed from the oven it is allowed to cool.
Thereafter, the blank is dusted again with the ground enamel powder and the firing process is repeated. A dial will be subjected to several firings. At this point, 60 – 70% of dials don’t make the grade and only the finest examples are selected. Once the creamy-white canvas has passed muster, it is polished and filed.
Now the process of miniature painting can begin. Coloured enamel powders are mixed with water and the artist creates an outline of the intended scene, in this instance starting with the peonies. With a fine brush the artist imparts colours onto the epidermis of the dial. After each application of colour, the dial is fired at a high temperature. Once again, the precise temperature and cooking time will be determined by the artisan’s intuition, an insight only gained with vast experience.
With repeated firing of the dial, the colours may not appear as intended, the surface can bubble or even crack. Experience mitigates the risk of waste but it can never eliminate all of the potential problems. Only perfect dials are used for the Chopard L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony.
As I have shown, the making of a grand feu dial, especially one incorporating miniature painting, is a lengthy process with a relatively low production yield. The production of these dials cannot be industrialised as the skills and techniques preclude such an approach. Needless to say, the dials are time consuming to make. Indeed, it takes approximately one week to complete a dial for the L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony.
The case
The Chopard L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony is housed in a 35mm case made of ethical 18-carat gold. A Chopard initiative ensures gold is sourced responsibly. Ethical gold encompasses ‘a wide range of environmental and social criteria’ and presents a caring face to commerce that many firms should seek to emulate. Like ‘regular’ 18-carat gold, the composition of ethical gold is 75% pure gold.
Consistent with the feminine character of the dial, the case measures a demure 7.7mm in height. Highly polished surfaces abound and sit in concert with the numerous diamonds adorning the case. Appraising the case, it becomes clear that few surfaces haven’t been touched by the adroit hands of a time-served gem-setter.
Indeed, diamonds adorn the bezel, upper lug surfaces and caseband. The case construction of this watch was designed from the outset to accommodate precious stones. Sadly, there are some watches sold on the grey market where a regular case is drilled to accommodate diamonds and in so doing the integrity is compromised. Likewise, the diamonds used on said watches may be of inferior quality or procured from dubious sources. Quite simply, there is no substitute for buying a diamond-set watch from an authorised retailer.
In terms of the engraving on the Chopard L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony’s case, the skilled artisan will chase out material using a burin or scorper. He or she will possess vast experience, taking care to remove metal without slipping and marring the pristine appearance of the case. One mistake and the case may be ruined. A keen eye and steady hand are prerequisites for success.
To the rear of the case, a pane of sapphire crystal grants sight of the Calibre L.U.C 96.23-L.
The Chopard L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony is presented on a green alligator leather strap, reinforcing the perception of glamour and luxury.
The movement
In 1996, Chopard opened its Manufacture in Fleurier, a town within the Val-de-Travers. The company’s inaugural movement, the Calibre L.U.C 1.96 (now called the Calibre 96.01-L) was unveiled the following year (1997). This movement was infused with numerous refinements intended to whet the appetite of any self-respecting watch aficionado.
A micro-rotor, two stacked barrels, sublime finishing and the prestigious hallmark of the Poinçon de Genève were just some of the features that made Calibre 96.01-L worthy of the term ‘Haute Horlogerie’. Over the last 25 years, Chopard Manufacture has produced a diverse array of in-house movements, encompassing a multitude of complications, but all refined to the same elevated, no-compromise standard.
The Chopard L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony is equipped with the Calibre 96.23-L, a self-winding movement that shares some of its DNA with the brand’s inaugural movement, the Calibre 96.01-L. However, in this instance, the Calibre 96.23-L is made of ethical 18-carat rose gold.
Convenience is afforded courtesy of the automatic movement, making it suitable for daily wear. However, this is not a regular automatic watch featuring a large, semi-circular oscillating mass, on the contrary, this movement is fitted with a 22-carat ethical gold, micro-rotor.
While Chopard fitted its first in-house movement with a micro-rotor some 25 years ago, it remains quite rare for a watch to possess this feature. Unlike a regular rotor, the micro-rotor sits flush with neighbouring bridges, mitigating the movement’s thickness. In this instance, the Calibre 96.23-L has a height of just 3.5mm, making it compatible with the slender physique of the L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony.
A further benefit of a micro-rotor is that it allows the wearer to see more of the movement bridges and the ubiquitous, supremely refined finishing. The movement features Chopard Twin technology where two barrels are stacked, one upon the other. This delivers an impressive power reserve of 65 hours. However, perhaps more importantly, by employing two barrels, the power sent to the escapement is more uniform and thereby the amplitude remains more consistent, aiding precision.
The movement is endowed with Fleurisanne engraving (see later). The resultant aesthetic combines gold floral motifs, presented in relief positioned adjacent rhodium-plated surfaces. The latter surfaces are marked with small indentations. The Calibre 96.23-L incorporates polished screws which sit within polished sinks. The bridges feature gleaming bevels, delivering exquisite contrast with adjacent bridge surfaces and flanks.
Fleurisanne engraving
Where many watch movements are adorned with Côtes de Genève, frosting, graining or perlage, this watch is embellished with an exquisite artisanal alternative, Fleurisanne engraving. This form of decoration requires special techniques in order to achieve a flawless result.
Most movement parts are handled with kid gloves, therefore, wielding a burin near the surface can easily spell disaster. Moreover, to engrave a part, it must be secured in some form of mount or clamp, however, such a device would inevitably scratch the movement.
When imparting Fleurisanne engraving to a surface, Chopard artisans ingeniously secure the movement by mounting it in ice, circa -15°C. By adopting this technique, the risk of scratching is ameliorated. However, this does not prevent the exposed movement surfaces from being damaged with a wayward burin, hence concentration is absolute.
To achieve the floral motif, presented in relief, the material neighbouring the pattern has to be removed. The result is the golden peonies stand proud, while the adjacent recessed surfaces are rhodium-plated, a treatment which is applied post engraving. The silver-hued movement surfaces are adorned with numerous dots acting as a foil for the dominant floral scene.
It takes an artisan approximately a ‘week and a half to complete’ the engraving of each Calibre 96.23-L movement.
Closing remarks
In my opinion, the Chopard L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony is a superlative expression of watchmaking. This luxurious creation is enriched with various artistic crafts including Grand Feu enamelling, gem setting and Fleurisanne engraving. Furthermore, beyond its winsome appearance, this watch is equipped with a highly refined automatic movement.
While this watch is overtly feminine, it demonstrates Chopard’s remarkable in-house expertise. Since 1996, the company has been a Manufacture, crafting movements of the highest order. Moreover, the Maison’s preference for independence is much in evidence. For example, Chopard has its own gold foundry, the cases are made in-house and various artistic crafts are performed by the company’s dedicated team of talented artisans. In just 25 years, Chopard Manufacture has achieved so much and now competes with some of the finest names in the Haute Horlogerie segment.
Image – Copyright © Jean-Daniel Meyer
Clearly, this watch is esoteric by its very nature. However, irrespective of your gender or personal taste, it should be remembered that artistic crafts could easily disappear if it were not for companies such as Chopard. It is by preserving these skills that future generations will be able to admire these ticking works of art, made without compromise and destined to confer pleasure for many years to come.
Further reading
Technical specification
- Model: Chopard L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony
- Reference: 131944-5005
- Case: Ethical 18-carat rose gold, diameter 35 mm, height 7.70 mm; sapphire crystal to front and exhibition case back
- Functions: hours and minutes
- Movement: Calibre L.U.C 96.23-L, self-winding movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz); 29 jewels, power reserve 65 hours
- Strap: Green alligator leather strap paired with a Dimond-set polished ethical 18-carat rose gold pink buckle
- Price on application
- Limited Edition: 8 pieces