Panerai Radiomir Eilean (PAM01243)
Carl Eady reviews the Panerai Radiomir Eilean (PAM01243) in steel. With historic ties to the Italian Royal Navy, Panerai has long celebrated its links to the nautical world. In 2006, it acquired ‘Eilean’, a historic yacht, rich in heritage but in dire need of renovation. Not only did the brand do an exemplary job in restoring the ketch, but it also honoured it with a new addition to the celebrated Radiomir collection.
Introduction
William Fife III (1857 –1944) was a 3rd generation yacht builder from Fairlie, in Scotland. His father and grandfather had themselves created an enviable reputation for the quality of their work. Building on this legacy, Fife surpassed their exacting standards and went on to become the premier yacht builder of his era. Renowned for their solid construction, speed and flamboyance, his yachts were highly sought after and were even commissioned for prestigious events, such as the America’s Cup. Fife’s achievements were well recognised, he was awarded an OBE in 1919 and a posthumous induction to the Americas Cup Hall of Fame in 2004.
Image – © Eilean – Panerai
Thanks to the quality of his work, over 100 of his creations are still sailing today, including ‘Eilean’, whose name is derived from the Gaelic term for ‘little island’. Eilean is a 22m ketch class yacht, originally commissioned in 1936 by Scottish steel merchants, the Fulton brothers. Eventually, Eilean found its way to the Caribbean where it was sold to a charter business in Antigua. Perhaps Eilean’s greatest claim to fame is that it featured in the video promoting Duran Duran’s song, ‘Rio’. Sadly, shortly after its moment of fame, the yacht sank after a collision with a ferry. Despite its celebrity status, once it had been recovered from the ocean floor, it was left to rot. In 2006, Italian watch giant Officine Panerai came to Eilean’s rescue and sent the yacht to a Genoan shipyard for repair. Fortunately, the original paperwork was stored at the Scottish Maritime Museum, enabling a full and authentic restoration to take place, returning the yacht to its original condition of 1936. The painstaking project took three years, after which Eilean was proudly relaunched in 2009 in La Spezia in Italy.
Image – © Eilean – Panerai
Twelve years on, the Florentine brand has created a stunning Eilean inspired timepiece, joining the firm’s iconic Radiomir collection. In July 2021, the watch will make its debut, alongside its namesake yacht, as part of the Italianità festivities in Portofino. Unmistakeably Panerai, this new watch is rich with features celebrating one of William Fife III’s most masterful creations.
Case
In 1936, Panerai supplied its first modern watches to the Italian Royal Navy. These watches were effectively prototypes and formed the basis of what has since become known as the Radiomir collection. The first watches to adopt the design language of modern-day watches did not appear until several years later.
Stoking nostalgic emotions, Eilean’s stainless-steel case has a wonderful matte patina finish. This special treatment has rarely been utilised by the brand, save for pieces such as the California PAM 931 and the 8 Days PAM 992.
The sleek contour lines of the yacht’s hull are elegantly echoed by the edges of the cushion-shaped case on the watch. On the left-hand side of the case, the boat’s name and original launch date are engraved alongside the dragon motif, an emblem Fife applied to most of his yachts.
The case sports a stepped bezel, reminiscent of a porthole, while its 45mm diameter delivers great wrist presence. The wired and welded lugs are unobtrusive, ensuring focus always remains on the case and dial.
By fitting the Panerai Radiomir Eilean with a solid caseback, there is a suggestion that the watch has impressive dive capabilities, however, with just 100m water resistance the model is perhaps better suited to life on deck or sticking to shallow waters. Finished in the same patina steel, the screw-down hexagonal caseback is embossed with ‘Eilean 1936’ in bold which is encircled with a nautical rope decoration. This inscription matches the one on the ship’s boom.
The look is completed by a screw-down winding crown at 3 o’clock, personalised with the Officine Panerai logo.
Dial
The dial of the Panerai Radiomir Eilean subscribes to the brand’s trademark layout with large curvaceous Arabic numerals presented at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock and elongated baton-style indexes located in between. The vintage-inspired hour and minute hands are filled with a generous helping of Super-LumiNova. In daylight, the lume is beige, complementing the dial. However, as the sun sets, a vivid green hue emerges, ensuring legibility throughout the dusky hours.
The ‘sandwich’ dial is in keeping with Panerai’s house style, long celebrated by the brand’s fanatical followers known as the ‘Paneristi’. It also cleverly salutes Eilean’s heritage. Finished in a deep earthy brown, the dial has been decorated with an inspired striped pattern that echoes the teak wood boards used extensively on the yacht’s deck.
Movement
Panerai has opted for its tried and tested P.6000 movement to power the Radiomir Eilean. Used in a number of Radiomir and Luminor models, the 19 jewelled P.6000 is highly reliable and comes with Incabloc™ anti-shock protection, very helpful when experiencing the rough and tumble of ocean-life. In some cases, the Calibre P.6000 powers a ‘small seconds’ display, however, on this occasion, Panerai has limited the indications to just hours and minutes.
Beating at 21,600 vibrations per hour, the hand-wound P.6000 will run autonomously for 3 days once fully wound.
Strap
The Panerai Radiomir Eilean is supplied on a Cuoio Toscano calf leather strap, complementing the brown dial and patina steel case. Its soft tone and refined comfort give the watch a casual persona, well suited to relaxing days admiring the ocean view. The Eilean is further celebrated on the strap, with the inclusion of authentic lateral stitching, emulating the stitching found on the yacht’s sails. Similarly, the caseback’s motif, proclaiming ‘Eilean 1936’, is replicated on the lower portion of the leather strap.
Closing thoughts
When a brand reaches a status such that its designs are instantly recognisable without any evident branding, it deserves the utmost respect. Panerai achieved this landmark a long time ago and its cushion-shaped case designs, especially in the Luminor and Radiomir collections, are among the most iconic in today’s watch market. With the Radiomir Eilean, Panerai has created a timepiece worthy of its nautical namesake, including judiciously employed touches that reflect the brand’s passion for Eilean and its restoration.
There is a refreshing authenticity to the story of Panerai’s nautical association. With its historic ties to the Royal Italian Navy, its links to sailing and its sympathetic restoration of Eilean, Panerai has gained legitimacy in the maritime/yachting world and earned the right to create these wonderful celebratory pieces. To match the number on Eilean’s sail, the watch will be limited to just 449 pieces per year.
The execution is exemplary and is likely to delight fans of William Fife III’s work, watch fans the world over and, of course, the ever faithful ‘Paneristi’.
Image – © Eilean – Panerai
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: Panerai Radiomir Eilean
- Reference: PAM01243
- Case: Engraved patina steel, diameter 45mm, water resistance 10ATM (100m), sapphire crystal to the front and solid caseback.
- Functions: Hours, minutes
- Movement: Calibre P.6000; hand-wound movement; frequency 21,600 vph (3Hz); 19 jewels; power reserve = 3 days
- Strap: Cuoio Toscano calf leather in dark brown with lateral stitching and ‘Eilean’ embossed logo. Fitted with patina steel buckle.
- Price: £7,000 (RRP as at 16.7.2021)
- Limited: 449 pieces per annum