Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar Platinumtech (PAM00715)
The Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar Platinumtech (PAM00715) is a new high complication from the Swiss-Italian marque once known for making utilitarian watches for the Royal Italian Navy. The brand has also launched a second model, the Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar Goldtech (PAM00742). Both are equipped with the same in-house movement, the Panerai P.4100 calibre.
Panerai was established in 1860 in the Italian city of Florence. From an early stage it began supplying ‘high precision mechanical’ goods, such as naval combat sights, to the Royal Italian Navy. Later, the firm supplied the Navy with divers’ watches (1936).
Early models featured highly luminescent hands and dials, using the radioactive material, Radiomir. The sandwich dial, bold baton-style hands, the Radiomir dial text, cushion-shaped case and wire loop strap attachments continue to endure. Likewise, the Radiomir name still appears on the brand’s models to do so this day.
The Luminor came later. Again, its name can trace its origins to a luminous material, ‘Luminor’, patented in 1949. This newer luminescent material was safer than Radiomir. Modern Panerai models use Super-LumiNova, a highly popular luminescent treatment that exhibits an extraordinary glow in dim light. This treatment is widely considered to be safe in use.
Historically, Panerai focussed its efforts on the military segment, however, in 1993, it took the bold decision to make watches available to the public for the very first time. It chose to release its Luminor model, a watch that saw military service during the 1940s. The Luminor shared some elements with the aforementioned Radiomir, including the baton-style hands, sandwich dial and extraordinary night-time legibility. However, the Luminor eschewed wire loop strap attachments in favour of conventional lugs (a detail which first appeared on the Radiomir in the 1940s). The company also fitted the Luminor with its patented crown protection device, a mechanism that bestows the model with its distinctive profile.
Throughout its history, Panerai has made highly practical watches. Ironically, it’s the utilitarian character of the firm’s watches that has influenced their present-day aesthetic appearance. Indeed, it’s this styling that is now much loved by legions of Paneristi.
Looking to its past, Panerai has procured its movements from Angelus, Rolex and, later, ETA. However, in 2005, Panerai released its first in-house movement, the P.2002 and since then it has not looked back, releasing a number of additional calibres. In 2014, Panerai opened a new Manufacture in Neuchâtel and its ambitions show no signs of waning. Indeed, it has produced high complications such as tourbillons and even the Radiomir Minute Repeater Tourbillon GMT (PAM00600). These ultra-complex models are far removed from the firm’s military origins and perfectly demonstrate its full transition into an ultra-luxurious brand.
Now, Panerai has unveiled two new models equipped with a perpetual calendar, one housed in ‘Platinumtech’, Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar Platinumtech (PAM00715), and the other in ‘Goldtech’. These models automatically take into account the number of days in each month, advancing to the first of the month when appropriate. Whether a month contains 28, 29, 30 or 31 days, the Panerai P.4100 calibre has it covered. Assuming the watch is kept wound, the date will not require manual adjustment until 2100.
Both models have an impressive inventory of functions, namely, ‘hours, minutes, small seconds, date, day, month, year, leap year, GMT 24H display, power-reserve indicator, perpetual calendar and seconds reset’.
What makes these models particularly appealing is that they say much in a highly lucid, intelligible way. Those functions which are used less frequently are positioned to the rear of the watch, preventing the main dial from appearing cluttered.
Panerai created room for the indications positioned to the rear of the watch by employing a micro-rotor. This in itself is no easy task as it needs to create sufficient inertia to power the two barrels while occupying minimal space.
The Swiss-Italian brand has come a long way since its inception in 1860, especially in the last 16 years since it became a Manufacture. Its models remain practical but are now imbued with a high quotient of luxury and a level of functionality barely imaginable just a few years ago.
The brand’s press release
Panerai’s history is one of invention, beginning in the 19th century when Giovanni Panerai opened the first watchmaking school in Florence and encompassing the present. Panerai continues to conceive new creations, adding to its portfolio one of the horological world’s most challenging complications. Able to indicate the date and automatically recognize months with less than 31 days and leap years, the perpetual calendar is now the heart of two references in different case materials and colourations, the Luminor Perpetual Calendar Goldtech™️ and Luminor Perpetual Calendar Platinumtech™️, each available in limited editions.
With the new P.4100 movement, the Panerai Laboratorio di Idee has created an original, in-house automatic movement, conceived and crafted by the Neuchatel manufacture, that forges unprecedented territory for the brand. Intuitive adjustments made through the crown permit changes to the day, date, month and year without using a tool or corrector without any limitation, including during month-end periods and approaching midnight. Alongside the hour and minute hands resides an independent 12H GMT Hand and 24H subdial at 9 o’clock featuring small seconds and a day-night indicator. The P.4100 movement features dual barrels, storing a power reserve of up to three days. An off-centre, micro-rotor winds the movement that beats at 4Hz; its size and placement allow the calibre to measure only 7mm thick despite the number of features it sustains.
Elements visible on the dial—minutes, hours, day, date, GMT 24H display and seconds—have been kept to a minimum to maintain the characteristic clarity and simplicity of Panerai design. Only the presence of the words “Calendario Perpetuo” reveals the actual degree of complexity within. In addition to the indication of power reserve, the key indications of the perpetual calendar—month, year and leap year—are visible through the sapphire caseback.
It is only natural to combine a time-honoured complication and a quintessential Panerai silhouette, the Luminor case with its patented crown protecting device and sandwich dial. The 44mm Luminor Perpetual Calendar GoldtechTM is available in a limited edition of 270 pieces. A blue sun-brushed dial proves a complementary companion for the proprietary precious metal.
Two straps in coordinating deep blue tones, one in a supple patina alligator and a second in rubber, provide the opportunity to display refined or sporty style with the same watch. The Luminor Perpetual Calendar PlatinumtechTM is one of the few references produced using the proprietary material 950% platinum.
A green sun-brushed dial is an elegant companion for the precious metal, alongside with a second brown strap in rubber. Only 100 pieces will be available. Both Luminor Perpetual Calendar Goldtech™️ and Luminor Perpetual Calendar Platinumtech™️ will be available exclusively at Panerai boutiques.
Water-resistant up to 5 bar (about 50 meters deep), the Luminor Perpetual Calendar Goldtech™️ and Luminor Perpetual Calendar Platinumtech™️ feature a trapezoidal pin buckle: in Goldtech, for the Luminor Perpetual Calendar Goldtech™️ and in white gold for the Luminor Perpetual Calendar Platinumtech™️. A screwdriver to remove the buckle and to change the strap accompanies both references.
Further reading