Patek Philippe 5204R-011 (Part 1 of 2) Watch Review
The Patek Philippe 5204R-011 is a split-seconds chronograph and perpetual calendar. While the Reference 5204 first appeared back in 2012, it is only recently, in October 2021, that the model has been offered in the highly seductive pairing of a rose gold case and a slate grey dial. In his two-part feature, Angus Davies examines the model in detail, commencing with a look at some of Patek’s former models before moving on to explore the dial in minute detail.
I can’t blame my poor memory on getting older, I’ve struggled with names all of my adult life. However, when it comes to recalling numbers, my memory proves even worse. My inability to recollect the date of my anniversary, my children’s birthdays, PINs and passwords is a constant source of irritation.
Patek Philippe 2499
Despite my passion for horology, watches do not escape my forgetfulness. Patek Philippe, the high-end Genevan Maison, has a remarkable knack for embarrassing me with its penchant for reference numbers. The company’s personnel reel off numbers from memory with great aplomb, reinforcing my feelings of inadequacy. Indeed, despite writing about numerous watches from the prestigious firm, I always need a pen and paper to record those all-important numbers.
Image – Reference 2499
However, there is one reference number that I always remember; the Reference 2499. Presented in a 37.5mm case, this watch featured a chronograph with two registers and a perpetual calendar with moon phases. It was equipped with the Calibre 13”’, employing a Valjoux base which was finished to an exalted standard.
Image – Reference 1518
Patek Philippe 1518
First unveiled in 1950, as a successor to the Reference 1518, the watch was in production until 1985. Interestingly, despite its lengthy service in the Patek collection, the Maison only produced 349 pieces, spread across four series. Blessed with a prepossessing appearance, this timepiece has stood the test of time. Clearly, I’m not alone in my admiration for this watch as both Eric Clapton and John Lennon have enjoyed the experience of owning a Reference 2499.
Patek Philippe 5270
The Patek Philippe 5270 is today’s equivalent of the Patek Philippe 2499. It was first released in 2011 and over the years it has been housed in a variety of noble metals. The Patek Philippe 5270J is endowed with a silvery opaline dial and a 41mm yellow gold case. Like Patek Philippe Reference 2499, it is powered by a hand-wound movement, albeit, on this occasion, it’s an in-house creation. The Caliber CH 29-535 PS may look traditional, but it is packed with innovation, manifest with six patented features. And yet, despite its complexity, the movement measures just 7mm in depth. Without question, this is a gorgeous expression of Haute Horlogerie.
Image – Reference 5270J
Technically, the Patek Philippe 5270J is superior to the Patek Philippe 2499. Moreover, its 41mm case diameter is better suited to my oversized physique. However, if the opportunity presented itself, and sadly it won’t, I would still go for the Reference 2499. It seems that I’ve set aside logic and still have a fondness for the Patek Philippe 2499, a watch I have coveted most of my adult life.
Patek Philippe 5204
Now, there is a new reference number destined to elicit covetous thoughts in my watch-obsessed mind, the Patek Philippe Reference 5204R-011. The Reference 5204 was released in 2012, however, the 5204R-011 was launched in October 2021. It pairs a rose gold case with a magnificent slate grey dial, hitherto an unprecedented combination. The two dominant hues provide a seductive blend, rich in warmth and brimming with elegance.
Despite the Reference 5270 and my beloved 2499 both proving incredibly complex and described by the Maison as ‘Grand Complications’, the Patek Philippe 5204R-011 supplants each of these potential ownership propositions. Indeed, this new Patek Philippe will cause any self-respecting horophile to salivate. A casual glance and you can be excused for thinking the watch is identical to the Reference 5270. Yes, it features a perpetual calendar with two beautifully proportioned apertures beneath noon and, yes, it is a chronograph. The same then? Oh no, look at the push piece set within the crown and you will suddenly realise that this watch features an über-desirable split-second chronograph. This is a technical tour de force that deserves to be examined in minute detail. Without further ado, I invite you to join me on a horological feast par excellence.
Consistent design
When appraising the dial of the Patek Philippe Reference 5204R-011, one cannot help thinking it bears a strong resemblance to the Reference 1518 (released in 1941) as well as the previously mentioned References 2499 and 5270. Bearing in mind that the Reference 5204 shares a similar visage to a watch that’s over 80 years old, that says a lot. It demonstrates that the original design was near perfect and, more pertinently, it also suggests this latest iteration of the Reference 5204 should also confer lasting eye-appeal.
Image – Reference 5270P
The Patek Philippe Reference 5204R-011 features rose gold faceted dauphine-style hour and minute hands, each lined with a strip of luminescent coating. This provides a subtle point of difference from the references I have mentioned earlier. Indeed, the hands employed on the 1518 and 2499 were leaf-shaped and lacked any luminescent treatment (albeit some examples of 2499 were fitted with dauphine-style hands). The modern-day 5270, once again, features leaf-shaped hands san luminescence.
Over the years, Patek Philippe has played with different hour markers. The Reference 1518 was typically equipped with Arabic numerals, presented in a clear, unfussy font. The Reference 2499 was produced in four series with early examples featuring Arabic numerals and later models sporting neat batons. The modern-day 5270 has a blend of numerals in the upper section of the display and pyramidal indexes in the southern hemisphere of the dial. When it comes to the dial of the 5204R-011 it’s fitted with a combination of long and short indexes, save for 6 o’clock where the combined date and moon phase display reside.
From the 1518 to the 5204R-011, each model has always featured two apertures positioned below noon with the left window revealing the day and the right aperture disclosing the month. The Maison’s name and the watch’s place of origin have consistently been positioned underneath. Neat and succinct, this design element has been applied for many decades, masterfully sidestepping potential obsolescence. Likewise, the pointer date and moon phase ensemble, residing at 6 o’clock, have appeared on each of the aforementioned models.
Where the Patek Philippe Reference 5204R-011 differs from its other family members is that it eschews a tachymeter scale. Instead, the dial is endowed with a chemin de fer as well as an adjacent track marked with strokes at ⅕-second intervals. Similar to the 5270, the 5204R-01 features a leap year indicator at 04:30 and a day/night indicator at 07:30.
Patek 5204R-011 – split-seconds chronograph
However, one detail distinguishes this timepiece as truly exceptional. There’s not one central chronograph seconds hand, but two. Well, not quite. One hand IS the central chronograph seconds hand (trotteuse), while the additional hand is a ‘split-seconds chronograph hand’, sometimes termed ‘a rattrapante hand’. Positioned out of view, this latter hand sits beneath the central chronograph seconds hand, moving in tandem. The gap between both hands is minuscule in order to avoid any parallax issues, something that proves far more difficult to achieve than it may sound.
When timing an interval, the wearer presses the push piece at 2 o’clock (start/stop). However, there may be a requirement to time a series of intervals, sometimes simultaneously. By pressing the push piece set in the crown, the split-seconds chronograph hand stops and comes into view as the central chronograph second hand continues to makes its way around the dial. This allows the owner to measure an intermediate time (split). After timing the split, the owner simply presses the crown-based push piece and the split-seconds chronograph hand ‘catches up’ (rattraper in French) with the main chronograph hand. Such mechanisms are incredibly difficult to make. Moreover, they are produced in very small numbers and need the skilful hands of a senior watchmaker to perform the numerous adjustments required in order to deliver the optimum performance. Quite simply, the split-seconds or rattrapante is regarded as the ultimate chronograph.
Dial design – an eye for details
Based on its esteemed reputation, it should come as no surprise to learn that the Patek Philippe Reference 5204R-011 fulfils its functional role with consummate ease. With regard to its aesthetic appearance, the dial of this model stands comparison with an Old Master. As for the dial itself, Patek has rejected the customary brass, selecting 18-carat gold instead.
Unusually, Patek Philippe owns its own dial factory, Cadrans Flückiger. This specialist firm, founded in 2004, is based in Saint Imier and has gained a reputation for making peerless dials for the Genevan Maison as well as for other prestigious brands.
The dial on the Patek Philippe Reference 5204R-011 features a beautifully defined sunburst finish with fine lines emanating from the centre of the display. Close examination of the apertures for the day and month indications reveals they have a bevelled surround, guiding the eyes to the information presented. The gold indexes are applied and feature facetted edges.
A 30-minute counter sits at 3 o’clock. The lone gold hand converses with a chemin de fer, emulating the track hugging the periphery of the dial, albeit it’s much smaller. A chemin de fer also features on the small seconds display, positioned at 9 o’clock. Both of these subdials are slightly recessed, sitting just below the main epidermis of the dial. The central area of each subdial is snailed, whereas the Arabic numerals and chemin de fer sit upon a smooth satin surface. The 30-minute counter is an instantaneous counter whereby the hand advances every minute in the blink of an eye. It sounds simple, but the complexity of this type of counter would flummox many other brands.
As previously mentioned, Patek Philippe has chosen to present the moon phase at 6 o’clock which is encircled by a pointer date indication. This design language was employed on the first versions of the Reference 1518 and, as stated earlier, has since featured on the 2499, 5270 and 5204. The moon phase comprises a scalloped aperture that reveals a blue disc adorned with golden stars and a stylised depiction of the moon. The section covering the moon disc is presented in slate grey and is adorned with the same sunburst motif as the main dial.
The dial is clear, functional, comprehensive and incredibly refined.
Patek Philippe 5204R-011 – part two
In part two of this two-part feature, Angus examines the case and looks in close detail at the model’s hand-wound movement, the Caliber CHR 29-535 PS Q. Finally, he concludes the feature with his closing thoughts about Patek Philippe 5204R-011.