Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Automatic Designed with Diamonds
The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Automatic Designed with Diamonds is a new creation from the ultra high-end Maison based in the Val-de-Travers. Offered in a choice of rose gold or white gold, both references feature fully paved diamond dials. Meehna Goldsmith discusses the merits of these exquisite timepieces.
Parmigiani Fleurier is often overlooked when discussing top-tier brands such as Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and A. Lange & Sohne. And that’s a real shame, because it can certainly compete in terms of quality, detail and finishing. With the Tonda Automatic Designed with Diamonds (TADD), Parmigiani Fleurier presents its first dial fully paved with diamonds.
While Parmigiani Fleurier has used gems in its ladies’ watch collections before, they were used as accents rather than for the main event. In the TADD, the brand pulled out the stops with a creation worthy of the red carpet: a dial fully decked out in a pool of diamonds that shimmer like slivers of snow in the sun. From the pattern, texture and flashes of light, you can see this is no ordinary diamond dial.
The diamonds are set in a Grain d’Orge (barleycorn) setting, which is one of the signature motifs of Parmigiani’s guilloché dials. Inspired by “pointillism”, a jewellery setter “paints” diamonds onto the dial, placing them one by one. Pointillism is a 19th-century Neo-Impressionism technique of painting with tiny dots of colour to form an image. It was practised by artists such as Georges Seurat, Paul Signac and Henri-Edmond Cross.
To achieve the delicate, wavy pattern on the dial takes nearly 1000 brilliant-cut diamonds of seven different diameters. Continuing the dance, the bezel and lugs also feature brilliant-cut diamonds. Parmigiani Fleurier only uses diamonds certified as F-G colour and VVS.
The Parmigiani Tonda Automatic Designed with Diamonds is presented in an 18K white or 18K rose gold 36mm case. For the white gold version, blued stainless steel, skeletonised leaf-shaped hands circle the dial, accompanied by the 18K gold, blue PVD-plated Parmigiani Fleurier (PF) logo up top. In addition, the crown features a blue sapphire cabochon. On the TADD’s sister model, the 18K rose gold case sets the tone for the matching rose gold, skeletonised leaf-shaped hands, while the logo is also made of 18K rose gold. Inside the crown nestles a white opal cabochon.
The luxury continues with the alligator leather strap made by Hermès. The white gold version comes with a blue alligator strap, while the rose gold is paired with a grey alligator leather strap. Both 18K gold buckles match the gold hue of each case.
Parmigiani chose the PF310 – automatic winding manufacture movement with a 50-hour power reserve – to give life to the TADD. Through the sapphire case back, you’ll see traditional decorations such as Côtes de Genève and bevelled edges. Echoing the pattern on the dial, the 18K gold rotor is engraved with a Grain d’Orge guilloché.
Unlike other brands which use the term loosely, Parmigiani is a real Manufacture. It truly does make its own movements in its Vaucher Manufacture facility, a subsidiary firm the Maison has a majority stake. I can attest to the claim personally, as I’ve had the pleasure of visiting the brand in Switzerland several years ago.
In addition to supplying movements for its own watches, Parmigiani also designs and manufactures movements for other companies. When a basic movement such as an ETA, or version thereof, just doesn’t cut it, watchmakers often turn to Parmigiani for an upgrade. Its movements are known for their quality. Higher-end brands who outsource, often call upon Parmigiani to meet their movement needs. If your watch has one under the hood, you’ve got an excellent expression of fine watchmaking.
Very few brands can claim the double threat of being an authentic Manufacture as well as an expert in jewellery watches. Indeed, Piaget and Cartier would probably dominate that conversation should the subject came up. Parmigiani communicates in more of a whisper, going about its business and doing excellent work without needing much fanfare. With the introduction of the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Automatic Designed with Diamonds, the brand demonstrates savoir-faire with a jewellery watch in the same category as the bigshots. It might just be the best kept secret… but now you’re in on it.
Further reading
Technical specification
- Model: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Automatic Designed with Diamonds
- Reference: PFC802-2120001-300181 (18ct rose gold)
- Reference: PFC802-2120002-300181 (18ct white gold)
- Case: Diameter 36mm; height 9.95mm; water resistance 3ATM (30 metres); sapphire crystal to front; exhibition case back.
- Functions: Hours; minutes
- Movement: PF310; self-winding movement; frequency 28,800 Vph (4Hz); 28 jewels; power reserve 50 hours; 189 components.
- Bracelet: Hermès alligator strap paired with a matching pin buckle
- Price: CHF 59,000 (RRP as at 17.5.2022)