Patek Philippe 5172G-010 Men’s Chronograph Watch Review
The Patek Philippe 5172G-010 Men’s Chronograph is a classical timepiece, inspired by the Manufacture’s models of the 40s and 50s. Housed in a vintage-style white gold case and equipped with a rose-gilt opaline dial, this paragon of fine watchmaking is powered by the manually wound CH 29-535 PS caliber.
Patek Philippe 5172G-010 Men’s Chronograph – Haute Horlogerie
The chronograph was born as a tool to measure intervals of time. Designed for sport, the most important element was accuracy. No need for fancy flourishes, added functionality was the order of the day. However, who says a chronograph can’t reach the highest levels of Haute Horlogerie? Well, a Patek Philippe does, and the Ref 5172G-010 Men’s Chronograph is a perfect example.
The first chronograph was invented in 1816
Before diving into Patek’s timing machine, let’s take a quick look at the history of the chronograph. It can trace its roots back to the first quarter of the 19th century. A French watchmaker named Nicolas Mathieu Rieussec originally got credit for inventing the chronograph in 1821. Designed to clock racehorses pounding and snorting around the track on the Champ de Mars, it could time to an accuracy of 1/10 of a second. Pretty damn impressive right out of the gate.
However, history somehow overlooked, or forgot, another French watchmaker who beat Rieussec with his Compteur de Tierces, some five years earlier. In 2013, it was discovered that Louis Moinet designed a pocket watch for astronomers that could capture the passing of time down to 1/60 of a second in 1816. By 1856, Patek Philippe produced its first chronograph, presented in pocket watch form.
The first wristwatch featuring a chronograph (1913)
It wasn’t until almost 100 years after the chronograph’s inception that brands were able to adapt the complication for use in a wristwatch. In 1913, Longines used its famed movement, the 13.33Z caliber, accurate to 1/5 of a second, to create a monopusher chronograph. That was followed a few years later by examples from Breitling and Universal Genève. Once on the wrist, the chronograph became more user-friendly. Aviators, racecar drivers and the military thronged to strap this valuable tool to their wrists.
The first Patek Philippe wristworn chronograph (1924)
Patek Philippe recognised the demand and followed suit, presenting its first standard chronograph wristwatch in 1924 in an officer’s case with subdials located in an unusual configuration at 12 and 6 o’clock. The first ébauches used were sourced from Victorin Piguet, and a few years later, in 1929, from Raymond Frères, which was a precursor to the Valjoux company of today.
Patek Philippe CHR 29-535 PS movement was released in 2009
Fast forward to 2005: Patek Philippe flexed its Manufacture muscles to debut a series of movements completely developed and produced within the brand’s halls. Not content with just a chronograph, Patek pulled back the curtain on the Ref 5959P, an ultra-slim split-seconda chrono. Four years later came the hand-wound CHR 29-535 PS movement. In a hat tip to the fairer sex, Patek offered the calibre in the Ref 7071, a chronograph for ladies. The men got their due with the Ref 5170 later that year.
Patek Philippe replaced the Ref 5170 with the Ref 5172 (2019)
Always looking to innovate and update, Patek Philippe replaced the Ref 5170 with the Ref 5172 in 2019. And, here is where our story picks up again. Though featuring the same calibre, the new model sized up to a more modern 41mm and added some vintage styling. It features refined guilloched pushers and a traditional chronograph layout: a central chronograph hand, with a small seconds dial and 30-minute counter at 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock, respectively. There’s also a tachymeter scale.
Patek Philippe 5172G-010 – white gold case, rose-gilt dial released in 2022
Now, the prestigious Maison has released the Ref 5172G-010. Housed in a white gold case, it sports a new visage described as rose-gilt opaline. The dial is paired with charcoal grey gold applied numerals and gold syringe-shaped hands, all coated with luminescent material. The watch is beautifully paired with a rich, chocolate brown alligator leather strap with a fold-over clasp.
This year coppery dials are emerging as a theme. With the Ref 5172G-010, Patek offers up a sophisticated rendition of its classic chronograph, one that can take on the challenges of sport, while also feeling at home in more formal settings.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: Patek Philippe 5172G-010 Men’s Chronograph
- Case: White gold; diameter 41 mm; height 11.45 mm; water resistance to 3 ATM (30 m); sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back.
- Functions: Hours; minutes; chronograph with an instantaneous 30-minute counter; small seconds
- Movement: Caliber CH 29-535 PS; hand-wound; 270 parts, 28,800 vph (4 Hz). Power reserve with the chronograph disengaged 65 hours.
- Strap: Shiny chocolate brown, hand-stitched alligator strap with square scales. Fold-over clasp
- Price: £66,670 (RRP as of 17.9.2023)