Blancpain Air Command 36.2mm
The Blancpain Air Command 36.2mm shares the many attributes of the brand’s existing 42.5mm models, but is presented in a smaller case. These models are perfectly suited to individuals with diminutive wrists who seek no diminution in terms of specification. Ladies and gentlemen, please form an orderly queue.
Marketing professionals like to place potential customers in categories based on gender, age, social-economic group, location, etc. The rationale for categorising an audience is to create products and services that meet the needs of a particular audience, targetting the limited marketing budget in the most effective way. However, inevitably by making assumptions and perpetuating stereotypes, the needs of some target groups invariably get overlooked.
Take the watch market, the lines between men’s and ladies’ timepieces have become increasingly blurred. For example, many style-conscious ladies like wearing 40mm watches that were historically considered masculine. Likewise, watches measuring 35mm or 36mm are widely considered feminine and yet there are many men who prefer these smaller case dimensions. Indeed, look back to the 1950s and you will note that 36mm models were very popular with men at the time.
The Swiss Manufacture Blancpain has an enviable reputation for crafting exquisite expressions of Haute Horlogerie. The brand is probably best known for its Fifty Fathoms collection, but also offers Villeret, Ladybird, Métiers d’Art and Air Command models.
The Air Command is a flyback chronograph, offered in a choice of red gold, steel or titanium. Each variant measures 42.5mm in diameter. However, the brand from Le Brassus has now released the Blancpain Air Command 36.2mm.
While this latest model has smaller case dimensions, there is no diminution in terms of the specification. Presented in blue, the dial has two registers and features bold Arabic numerals. The blue ceramic bezel insert promises a fade-free future with notable scratch resistance, while an exhibition case back affords views of the beautifully executed movement.
The watch can be used as a conventional chronograph by pressing the pushpiece at 2 o’clock to start/stop the stopwatch function, while the pushpiece at 4 o’clock is used to reset to zero. However, this particular model also features a flyback function. Assuming the chronograph is running, the wearer can press the pushpiece at 4 o’clock to stop, reset and restart the chronograph in the blink of an eye, obviating the need for hasty pusher fiddling. This particular feature proves especially useful when timing a series of successive events.
The movement, the Caliber F188B, is of the highest order. It features a column-wheel and vertical coupling, a combination that is held in the highest esteem by purists. Pressing the pushpiece at 2 o’clock delivers a buttery-smooth feel. Moreover, there is no sign of hesitation or wobble as the central chronograph seconds hand commences its journey.
Consistent with other Blancpain watches, the finishing is exemplary. Circular graining, bevelling and snailing are in much evidence, a testament to Blancpain’s no-compromise approach to watchmaking. While traditional craftsmanship abounds, the Swiss marque has also embraced modern technology. The silicon balance-spring is not liable to corrosion or magnetic influence. More pertinently, it promises superior precision when compared with conventional alloy hairsprings.
Unquestionably, the new Blancpain Air Command 36.2mm proffers many virtues. However, I am somewhat surprised that the brand chooses to refer to ‘feminine watches’, ‘ladies’ chronographs’ and ‘feminine models’ in the press release relating to the model (see later). I think this watch will appeal to both men and women who appreciate style, craftsmanship and technical virtue. So, come on Blancpain, don’t sell yourself short!
The brand’s press release
Blancpain is expanding its Air Command collection, inspired by one of its legendary historical chronographs. The new 36.2 mm-diameter model now joining the Manufacture’s line-up of sporty timepieces is smaller than its predecessor, while nonetheless endowed with all the makings of a great chronograph.
Feminine watches hold a special place in Blancpain’s watch range. Since the early 1930s, the Manufacture has tirelessly developed new movements and introduced innovations on women’s behalf. Blancpain is no stranger to ladies’ chronographs and in 1998 became the first to introduce a flyback chronograph for women. While this function is now found at the heart of several Blancpain models, the Air Command offers a new, sportier and more adventurous interpretation.
The rare 1950s Blancpain chronograph that inspired the Air Command collection is naturally reflected in the vintage look of this new model. The layout of the counters and tachymeter scale on the dial, as well as the shape of the luminescent hands and hour-markers, the piston-type chronograph pushers and the glassbox-type sapphire crystal all evoke the original timepiece.
Exactly like authentic vintage aviation watches, the new Air Command offers two distinct timing modes: a flyback chronograph and a countdown bezel. This model is nonetheless firmly rooted in the 21st century. The blue colour of the dial and the ceramic bezel insert endow it with a blend of modernity and elegance. The refinement continues with the sunburst and snailed dial finishes, as well as the alternating satin-brushed and polished finishing on the case. Housed inside its 36.2 mm diameter is the finest technology, represented by the F188B self-winding movement whose vertical clutch ensures stutter-free activation of the chronograph seconds hand, as well as smooth and optimal stop/start functions. Equipped with a silicon balance-spring, the movement also features a column-wheel system guaranteeing a smooth feel when starting or ending a measurement and resetting the hands to zero. The back of the watch reveals the beauty of this high-end mechanism and its openworked oscillating weight, adorned with traditional watchmaking finishes such as circular graining, bevelling and snailing.
Available in grade 23 titanium – an exceptional quality rarely used in watchmaking – or in red gold, the Air Command comes with a blue calf leather strap featuring white stitching. This new release, reflecting Blancpain’s desire to offer feminine models in all its timepiece collections, will accompany the most intrepid wrists.
Further reading