Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton
The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton unites the Maison’s extraordinary finishing and in-house expertise with an open-worked dial and movement ensemble. Back in 2021, when the Manufacture released the initial quartet of Tonda PF models, it could never have envisaged the rapturous reception the collection would go on to receive from the world’s press and watch aficionados alike. Angus Davies looks closely at this ultra-refined example of fine watchmaking.
Parmgiani Fleurier Watch Review
As a fifty-something with aches and pains, both present and pending, I have become increasingly careful about what I eat. Today, food regulations require manufacturers to show nutritional information on the packaging of products and to declare which ingredients they have used. Health-conscious individuals are now able to avoid foods packed with life-shortening levels of salt, sugar and fat. Moreover, thanks to detailed labelling, consumers can dodge hydrogenated fat, food colourings and artificial flavours.
In the world of horology, a few ‘Swiss’ brands mask the origin of various components. Labelling their products as ‘Swiss Made’, they invariably apply the so-called 60% rule to the notion of provenance. Furthermore, some parts, devoid of finishing are hidden behind a dial or strategically positioned bridges.
A few months ago, Parmigiani Fleurier unveiled the Tonda PF Skeleton. This watch freely shows its constituent parts, all of which are executed to the highest order, free of impurities. The Maison owns and operates several factories in Switzerland, making specialist parts for its own watches as well as some sold by other brands.
To use gastronomy as an analogy, Parmigiani Fleurier uses the finest local ingredients, expertly unites flavours like a Michelin Star chef and serves mouthwatering dishes for the delectation of connoisseurs. Quite simply, the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton is an exquisite creation that all discerning horophiles should endeavour to experience. Allow me to elaborate.
Tonda PF openworked dial
There are two versions of the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton, one housed in 18ct rose gold and the other presented in stainless steel with a platinum 950 knurled bezel. Both models come supplied with a coordinating metal bracelet.
Irrespective of which model is selected, both have 18ct rose gold skeletonised delta-shaped hands. With some skeleton watches, the hands can become lost among the openworked detail, however, no such issues afflict the Tonda PF Skeleton. By juxtaposing gold hands against a graphite-toned backdrop, the hands are able to make their voices heard, beautifully imparting meaning while devoid of shrillness.
The movement is presented centre stage. Its intricate, openworked structure invites the wearer to dive in and survey an enchanting world of no-compromise watchmaking. The mainplate eschews extraneous material, creating a near-diaphanous latticework, while the fine bridges are enriched with alternating sections of sandblasted and satin-brushed metal. The uppermost sections feature a vertical brush, running north to south, and the various screws feature gleaming heads with beautifully defined slots that project from dark, polished sinks.
Each section of this intricate latticework is hand-chamfered by time-served hands. Close examination of the hour and minute hands reveals the centre is polished to a flawless conclusion. Furthermore, this fastidiousness is manifest with the ends of the pivots, sitting with each jewel, shiny and free of any blemishes.
At the top of the dial, a ‘PF’ logo indicates the maker’s name with golden hues but with seemly understatement. Despite this model possessing a notable degree of luxury, it never boasts or shouts. On the contrary, it goes about its business in a confident, but unassuming way.
A grey-toned minute track encircles the dial with 18ct rose gold, hand-applied indexes positioned at 5-minute intervals. Interestingly, the indexes are suspended, projecting from the minute track, seemingly floating above the openworked movement. This is just one example of how the Manufacture has played with depths to enrich the horological vista presented.
The arrangement of the dial discloses part of the keyless works, some constituent elements of the motion works and, most notably, each mainspring in various states of tension. Indeed, many of the components are revealed, all beautifully executed but without inhibiting the intelligibility of the hour and minute display.
Parmigiani Fleurier skeleton case
Irrespective of which reference is selected, the case measures 40 mm in diameter and is elegantly slender, at just 8.5 mm in height. The bezel is fluted, introducing a delicious note of texture, while the bracelet pairs highly polished and satin-finished surfaces. As mentioned earlier, the stainless steel model comes with a platinum 950 bezel. This noble metal evinces a slightly whitish appearance and provides subtle tonal contrast with the stainless steel. I find there is a temptation to repeatedly use the word ‘subtle’ when discussing the Tonda PF Skeleton, but nothing is overbearing or crass. On the contrary, every detail is beautifully distilled and presented free of impurities.
While the Tonda PF Skeleton has a sophisticated appearance, it shuns the usual strap found on most other formally attired rivals in favour of a bracelet. Sitting harmoniously with the watch head, the bracelet’s composition includes many intricately formed parts. Polishing each facet of the bracelet while keeping different types of finish discrete from one another is an arduous, protracted task, necessitating much care and skill.
When the bracelet is affixed to the wrist, each link cascades gently downwards, enveloping the wrist with a friendly embrace. It is clear that Parmigiani Fleurier has expended much effort considering the ergonomic relationship between the watch and its fortunate wearer.
To the rear of the watch, a pane of sapphire crystal indulges purists with a sublime verso perspective of the movement.
Parmigiani Fleurier Calibre PF777
Often skeleton watches feature hand-wound movements. The rationale is simple, why have an openworked movement if you intend to cover it up with a full-sized oscillating weight? Alternatively, some watch brands favour a micro-rotor, mitigating the amount of space taken up by a view-stealing weight.
Interestingly, Parmigiani Fleurier has equipped the Tonda PF Skeleton with a full-sized oscillating weight, but with a notable difference. The oscillating weight is sufficiently heavy to create meaningful inertia, thereby energising both mainsprings. However, it features two slender arms and a semi-circular arc of gold, leaving a void in between, thereby showcasing the exquisitely appointed movement below. The oscillating weight is made of 22ct rose gold which has been skeletonised, polished and sandblasted.
Parmigiani Fleurier has fitted the movement, the Calibre PF777, with two barrels. By employing two barrels instead of one, the power serving the escapement, and ultimately, the regulating organ, is more consistent, thereby augmenting precision.
The movement is equipped with a variable inertia balance. Unlike an index-adjusted balance, the effective length of the hairspring remains constant. The watchmaker regulates the movement by rotating four C-shaped masselottes, positioned on the four spokes of the balance wheel, to alter the moment of inertia.
This system is far superior to an index-regulated balance as it is less susceptible to positional errors and the rate stability is superior. By placing the masselottes in-board instead of using traditional timing screws set in the rim of the balance wheel, the balance wheel is more aerodynamic, creating less air turbulence and, as a result, making the movement more precise.
The Maison states the Calibre PF777 comprises 187 components and, on the face of it, most seem to be visible. However, from personal experience, I know that the Swiss marque has a reputation for finishing components that will never be seen by the wearer. What is the rationale for such obsessive attention to detail? Well, finishing removes signs of machining, a refinement usually only found in the finest examples of Haute Horlogerie. Moreover, finishing improves corrosion resistance, removes burrs, which can foul moving parts, and, lastly, it enhances the visual appearance of components.
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton – closing thoughts
Guido Terreni, CEO of Parmigiani Fleurier, is the driving force behind the Tonda PF collection. He does not subscribe to the idea of overt branding and conspicuous consumption. His approach to watchmaking is reminiscent of fine tailoring. Firstly, the wearer purchases the item for themselves. Secondly, they understand the value of using the best materials, crafted by the most talented artisans. And, lastly, a peerless expression of bespoke tailoring does not require oversized logos or vulgar proclamations of the maker’s name to denote excellence. Quite simply, those individuals of discerning taste, just know.
The Tonda PF Skeleton fulfils its functional role of imparting time with extraordinary aplomb. The hands enunciate the time perfectly and its supremely smooth bracelet delivers a tactile encounter par excellence.
But, ultimately, all roads lead to the openworked movement. Everything is crafted to the highest order. There are no sub-standard parts to be found. Examine each square millimetre with a keen eye and you will discover fine ingredients, expertly prepared and attractively presented. This is a horological dish I could never tire of consuming.
Further reading
Technical specification
- Model: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton
- Reference: PFC912-2020001-200182 (18ct rose gold)
- Case: diameter 40 mm, height 8.5 mm, water resistance 10 ATM (100 metres); sapphire crystal to front, exhibition case back.
- Functions: Hours; minutes
- Movement: PF777; self-winding movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz); 29 jewels; power reserve 60 hours; 187 components.
- Bracelet: Polished and satin-finished 18ct rose gold bracelet with 18ct rose gold folding clasp
- Price: CHF 94,000 inc. VAT (RRP as of 10.10.2023)
- Model: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton
- Reference: PFC912-1020001-100182 (stainless steel with platinum 950 bezel)
- Case: diameter 40 mm, height 8.5 mm, water resistance 10 ATM (100 metres); sapphire crystal to front, exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes
- Movement: Calibre PF777, self-winding movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz), 29 jewels, power reserve 60 hours, 187 components.
- Bracelet: polished and satin-finished stainless steel bracelet with steel folding clasp
- Price: CHF 62,000 inc. VAT (RRP as of 10.10.2023)