Chopard L.U.C XPS 1860 Officer Green Dial Watch Review
The Chopard L.U.C XPS 1860 Officer Green Dial Ref. 161242-0001 features a forest green dial, exquisitely decorated with hand guilloché. The crown incorporates a push-button which, with a simple press, opens a hinged-cover to reveal a supremely refined automatic movement. This elegant example of Haute Horlogerie, once again, demonstrates the Maison’s extraordinary expertise.
Chopard Manufacture – opened in 1996
In 1996, Chopard opened Chopard its Manufacture in Fleurier. While the company had made watches before this, these were fitted with third-party movements. To become a Manufacture, producing in-house movements, represented a significant undertaking and not one without risk. To understand the rationale for opening the Fleurier site, one has to return to the early 1990s.
Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Co-President of Chopard, predicted mechanical watchmaking would eventually enjoy a revival. It must be remembered that some companies were still licking their wounds after the quartz crisis, a traumatic period when numerous watch brands and their suppliers went to the wall. Mr Scheufele’s optimism must, at the very least, have seemed bold to some observers, possibly even misplaced to others; however, his prophecy for brighter skies proved well-judged.
When Chopard Manufacture opened its doors in 1996 it employed just two members of staff. Some 28 years later, having invested tens of millions of Swiss francs, the Manufacture has proved a resounding success and now employs over 170 staff, working in a variety of roles. The inaugural movement, the L.U.C 1.96 (now called the L.U.C Calibre 96.01-L) was just the start. The Swiss marque has gone on to produce a myriad of exquisite watch movements, some of which are endowed with high complications. Indeed, Chopard’s ambitions have never waned and its capacity for innovation knows no bounds. For example, the Chopard L.U.C 8HF, released back in 2012, was COSC-certified despite its balance operating at a dizzying 57,600 vph (8Hz).
Chopard In-house expertise
When touring the site at Fleurier, one is struck by the numerous processes taking place under one roof. This is a shining example of a ‘vertically integrated company’. Moreover, the movements which ultimately feature in the brand’s L.U.C models are supremely refined and worthy of the term ‘Haute Horlogerie’. The finishing is exemplary with all traces of machining removed. Finishing, or ‘finissage’, also enhances the corrosion resistance of movement components and imparts an aesthetic allure that transcends mere functionality.
Some of the brand’s L.U.C movements are subject to the independent scrutiny of COSC, Qualité Fleurier or the Poinçon de Genève. Interestingly, in 2011 Chopard released the L.U.C Triple Certification, which as its name implies, met the criteria of all three of the aforementioned certification bodies.
In 2008, Chopard opened a separate facility in Fleurier, making in-house movements for some of the Happy Sport and Alpine Eagle models. With its expertise in producing cases and bracelets and crafting various expressions of métiers d’art, the high-end marque’s talents are multifaceted.
L.U.C Calibre 96.01-L (L.U.C 1.96)
If a watch company intends to make its first Manufacture movement, one would expect it to produce a comparatively simple hand-wound calibre, indicating just hours and minutes. However, from the outset, the Maison exhibited an extraordinary degree of ambition, clearly intent on competing with Haute Horlogerie’s old guard.
Chopard’s inaugural self-winding movement continues to be made, albeit it is now known as the L.U.C Calibre 96.01-L. It features a micro-rotor instead of the customary full-sized oscillating weight. Only a few companies, even today, have the expertise to make movements equipped with a micro-rotor. Indeed, creating sufficient inertia from a small, rotating piece of dense metal, in this instance 22K gold, that is capable of energising a mainspring, is no mean feat. However, Chopard clearly showed it was up to the task. Incidentally, the L.U.C Calibre 96.01-L has two barrels, ergo two mainsprings, another attribute which I will return to later.
The micro-rotor sits flush with neighbouring bridges rather than being positioned above. This approach mitigates the height of the movement (it has a thickness of just 3.30mm) and indulges the wearer with superior views of the finely decorated calibre.
While many watch movements are equipped with one barrel, this calibre comes with two stacked barrels. Adopting this approach increases the power-reserve, which, in this instance, is approximately 65 hours. Furthermore, by using two barrels, the power transmitted through the gear train, ultimately serving the escapement, is more consistent. Although this should not be confused with a constant force device, the amplitude will vary less as the energy within the barrels depletes. The net result is superior rate stability.
Chopard also equips the L.U.C 1.96 with a three-spoke balance wheel, fitted with a conventional hairspring and an index adjuster. This latter component is presented in the form of a highly polished swan-neck regulator. The balance is fitted with a sliding stud cap, providing a watchmaker with a useful means of correcting any beat error.
The balance spring is fitted with a Philips terminal curve. This involves altering the curvature of the outer coil of the hairspring. Similar in concept to the Breguet overcoil, the Philips terminal curve causes the hairspring to breathe more concentrically, thereby delivering superior isochronism.
Consistent with fine watchmaking, the mainplate is appointed with perlage, while the bridges are embellished with Côtes de Genève, engraved gilt text and gleaming screws. One aspect of this movement that I find particularly endearing is the decision by Chopard to leave gaps between the bridges, affording partial views of the gear train and barrels.
When Chopard released its ambitious L.U.C 1.96, it subjected the movement to the scrutiny of COSC and the Poinçon de Genève. Quite simply, with the release of its inaugural movement, the firm set the bar very high.
Chopard L.U.C 1860
The first watch to house the L.U.C 1.96 was the Chopard L.U.C 1860, released in 1997. Measuring 37 mm in diameter, the watch was classically styled and understated, characteristics that would be ultimately carried over to several other L.U.C models.
The Chopard L.U.C 1860 featured Dauphine-style hour and minute hands which conversed with tapered indexes. The central area of the dial was beautifully enriched with a delicate, wave-like guilloché motif and, lastly, a crisp minute track hugged the perimeter of the display.
Chopard resisted the temptation to overdose the dial with too many indications. Beyond the hours and minutes, just a small seconds and a date display were included. Clean, uncluttered and eminently elegant, this early example of the Chopard L.U.C 1860 demonstrated the firm’s clear intent to compete within the highest echelons of watchmaking.
Over subsequent years, the luxury brand has released further iterations of the Chopard L.U.C 1860, all of which have retained the essence of the original.
Watches & Wonders 2022
At Watches & Wonders 2022, Chopard unveiled several new models, including the L.U.C XPS 1860 Officer Green Dial Ref. 161242-0001. Blessed with a stunning forest green dial and housed in a 40 mm, 18K yellow gold case, this dress watch features the much-admired Calibre 96.01-L movement.
Chopard L.U.C XPS 1860 Officer Green Dial
When appraising the 2022 watch, its resemblance to the 1997 model is clear. However, this family likeness is more akin to that of a father and son rather than a genetic clone. The hour and minute hands are dauphine-fusée style, a derivation of the original dauphine-style employed on the original 1997. It is not the first time Chopard has used dauphine-fusée style hands. In fact, they have been part of the Maison’s design language for a number of years.
The hours are denoted with tapering, facetted indexes, similar to the 1997 model; however, on the 2022 model, Arabic numerals are used to indicate the midnight hour. The index at 6 o’clock is truncated, affording room for the date display which is presented in white numerals, set atop a forest green disc. There is an overriding sense of probity with this model. For instance, Chopard could have saved a few Swiss francs fitting a white or black disc, employing a one-size-fits-all approach, however, it has indulged purists with a matching date disc as horological etiquette dictates.
At the centre of the dial, a sea of hand guilloché showcases the Maison’s artistry. Rather than adorning the dial with Clous de Paris or Grain d’Orge, the display is enriched with a honeycomb pattern, a delicious speciality of the house. Finally, a chemin de fer rounds off the display, contributing to the impressive intelligibility of the dial.
Chopard L.U.C XPS 1860 Officer Green Dial – case
As stated earlier, Chopard has selected 18K gold for the L.U.C XPS 1860 Officer Green Dial. This imbues the watch with a slightly vintage appearance that wonderfully complements the rich green vista presented centre stage. Consistent with several other L.U.C references, the case wonderfully juxtaposes highly polished and vertically satin-brushed surfaces. This latter finish tempers the gleaming yellow gold, shrewdly sidestepping any undue excess.
The crown features a push-button marked with L.U.C on its vertical flank. With a simple press, a hinged cover to the rear of the watch flips open to reveal the aforementioned movement. The inside of the cover is engraved with a depiction of a beehive, a former brand logo, and the words ‘Chopard Manufacture’ and ‘L.U.C’. The outside of the lid is decorated with the marque’s hive pattern, beautifully executed using hand guilloché.
Lastly, the timepiece is presented on a hand-sewn brown alligator leather strap, lined in green. The strap is paired with a pin buckle formed of ethical 18K yellow gold.
Chopard L.U.C XPS 1860 Officer Green Dial – closing remarks
Since opening Chopard Manufacture, the high-end brand has skilfully delivered innovation, while simultaneously respecting its loyal clientele with a consistent approach to design. If the Chopard L.U.C XPS 1860 Officer Green Dial is positioned next to the Chopard L.U.C 1860 of 1997, it is clear both watches share a significant amount in common. The approach is more evolutionary than revolutionary, something that will undoubtedly resonate with many purists.
Image – ©Patrick Csajko
The styling of the new Chopard L.U.C XPS 1860 Officer Green Dial is timeless. It doesn’t shout wealth at the top of its voice like some nouveau riche watches. On the contrary, this is the horological equivalent of a softly-spoken gentleman, attired in a bespoke lounge suit, going about his business in a seemly manner. Open the hinged cover and you will note the brain of the watch, perfectly developed, hidden from sight, but beautifully executed. This watch knows how to conduct itself in all situations and it is blessed with an incredible intellect; however, this does not come as a surprise to me. After all, Chopard has repeatedly demonstrated these qualities since the advent of L.U.C 1.96, back in 1996.
Further reading
Technical specification
- Model: Chopard L.U.C XPS 1860 Officer Green Dial
- Reference: 161242-0001
- Case: Ethical 18-carat yellow gold, diameter 40.0 mm, height 7.70 mm, sapphire crystal to front and exhibition case back protected by a crown-activated hinged cover
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, date, stop-seconds function
- Movement: L.U.C 96.01-L, self-winding movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz); 29 jewels, power reserve 65 hours, certified chronometer (COSC), Poinçon de Genève
- Bracelet: Strap in hand-sewn brown alligator leather with green alligator lining, pin buckle in ethical 18-carat yellow gold
- Price: £31,700 (RRP as of 28.1.2024)
- Limited Edition: 50 pieces