Louis Moinet Memoris Spirit
The Memoris Spirit is the latest chronograph from Louis Moinet, a horological genre that will forever be associated with the Maison. Meehna Goldsmith discusses the world’s first chronograph, the compteur de tierces (1816), before exploring its modern-day equivalent, housed in a very agreeable 40.7mm case.
In 2004, CEO and Creative Director Jean-Marie Schaller opened the doors to the independent firm Les Ateliers Louis Moinet in honour of French horologist Louis Moinet. A talented watchmaker, Moinet was in fact a contemporary of Breguet, working with him and later becoming his personal adviser. Moinet invented such devices as a counter mechanism and a new balance-cock, which helped with rewinding.
In addition, Moinet published Traité d’Horlogerie in 1848, still considered by some to be the finest written book on watchmaking. His reputation was such that Tsar Alexander I, Napoleon Bonaparte, and US presidents Thomas Jefferson and James Monroe commissioned clocks from him.
Compteur de Tierces
Despite his pedigree, Moinet wasn’t perhaps the first name most watch enthusiasts would think of when discussing significant horological inventions, that is until an interesting item went up for auction at Christie’s in 2012, with the moniker Louis Moinet on the dial.
Schaller bought the instrument, called a compteur de tierces, which measured intervals to an accuracy of 1/60 of a second on its centrally positioned hand. To his astonishment, this piece functioned as a chronograph, albeit it was not called one at the time of its creation. Built during 1815-1816, the compteur de tierces was invented before Nicolas Mathieu Rieussec unveiled his chronograph in 1821. However, for almost two centuries, Rieussec was attributed with inventing the chronograph, a term conceived by the Academy of Sciences when he presented his innovative timing machine.
These days, the watch brand Louis Moinet can lay claim to the title ‘inventor of the chronograph’. Today, it continually strives to live up to its notable heritage. Indeed, since the discovery of the compteur de tierces, the watchmaking world has looked closely and critically at each new chronograph originating from the Maison’s HQ in Saint-Blaise.
The allure of chronographs
It’s pretty entrancing watching a chronograph hand click into action, circle the dial and then return to its original positions in less than a blink of an eye – all with just the push of a button. However, the real magic happens behind the curtain, underneath the mainplate, where the gears, cams, springs, levers and wheels move in a graceful and choreographed dance.
Louis Moinet Memoris (2015)
Louis Moinet debuted the Memoris in 2015 at Baselworld. Seated in a formidable 46mm case and with a pretty high lift off the wrist of 15.75mm, it did something very few, if any, chronographs have done. It featured all of the chronograph mechanics on the front of the watch, integrating them into the dial design and showcasing them to maximum effect.
Some pretty sophisticated mechanical gymnastics were required to flip the chronograph mechanism dial side for all to admire. And with the Memoris, the chronograph mechanism dominates the face of the watch. In fact, when Schaller introduced the Memoris, he referred to it not as a watch, but as a chronograph-watch. “Our starting point was the opposite: sweeping away the past and making the chronograph the heart of our design,” said Schaller. “The central component to which we then added a time function, rather than the other way round.” Therefore, the small circular dial with polished hands indicating the time is tucked in at 6 o’clock, easily readable but deferring to the show that goes on above.
Louis Moinet Memoris Spirit (2022)
With the Memoris Spirit, Louis Moinet updates and refines the design of the Memoris. Designer Fabrice Gonet and case-making artisan, Bertrand Crevoisier have achieved the near impossible task of slimming down the watch while increasing the view.
The timepiece has clearly been put on a pretty significant diet. By removing the six-screw bezel found on the original design, the Memoris Spirit now measures 40.7mm instead of the original 46mm. While the watch is still pretty thick, it’s justified. A new box crystal, domed on the sides, circles around the movement and hugs up against the perimeter of the case, while the new double-reading flange is integrated beneath the curved crystal. Additional updated design elements include an integrated crown support with a more sensuous line, while the curved lugs with a satin-brushed finish on top give the Memoris Spirit a more aerodynamic look and feel.
Crafted in two parts, the convex dial shines a light on the chronograph mechanism through the use of a sunburst chronograph plate. Like the Memoris, the Memoris Spirit remains a monopusher chronograph, with the pusher, decorated with a “Clous de Paris” hobnail pattern, located at 2 o’clock. The case weighs in at a mere 18 grams, the result of using grade 5 titanium. An 18K 5N rose gold option is also available, albeit it is a tad heavier. Another nice touch is the specially designed Louisiana alligator strap, which neatly integrates into the case.
An automatic manufacture movement built by Concepto and co-designed by Schaller powers the Memoris Spirit and has a 48-hour power reserve. The watch is offered in a limited edition of 28 watches in 18K 5N rose gold and 60 watches in grade 5 titanium. Would-be wearers have an array of dial colours to choose from.
Prior to conceiving the Memoris Spirit, Schaller pondered how to fit the 300+ components that make up the Memoris within a new very wearable 40.7mm case while at the same delivering an enhanced view of the indications. After seeing the result, it’s clear that Schaller hit it out of the park. A winner since its introduction, the new Louis Moinet Memoris Spirit with its smaller dimensions and even better view of the chronograph mechanism is sure to attract more devotees to this fascinating chronograph specialist.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: Louis Moinet Memoris Spirit
- Case: 18K 5N rose gold case or Grade 5 titanium, diameter 40.7mm, water resistance 5ATM (50 metres), box-type sapphire crystal
- Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph
- Movement: Caliber LM84, self-winding movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz), 30 jewels, power reserve 48 hours, 311 components
- Strap: Louisiana alligator leather strap paired with a matching triple-blade folding clasp.
- Price: Price on application
- Limited Edition: 18K 5N rose gold case – 28 pieces
- Limited Edition: Grade 5 titanium case – 60 pieces