Breguet Classique Dame 8068 Watch Review
The Breguet Classique Dame 8068 is overtly feminine with its mother-of-pearl dial, modest proportions and brightly-hued straps. However, this model also showcases the Maison’s aesthetic prowess and mechanical virtuosity, qualities that have universal appeal, irrespective of gender.
Breguet watch
Today, an increasing number of brands release ‘unisex’ watches, carefully avoiding the use of gender-specific terms. Indeed, with more men preferring sub-40mm case sizes and a growing number of ladies opting for larger models, there are good reasons for rejecting gender-specific labels.
However, with some watches, the intended audience is clear and unequivocal. The Breguet Classique Dame 8068, the clue’s in the name, is unabashedly feminine. A mother-of-pearl dial, a diamond-set bezel and vibrantly hued strap options, eloquently say ‘graceful’, ‘elegant’ and ‘womanly’. Breguet knows this market segment very well. In fact, no company can equal the Maison’s heritage when it comes to crafting ladies’ watches.
Breguet has an unrivalled history of making watches for women of discernment
Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823), an accomplished businessman, soon recognised the importance of engaging with the great and the good. Aristocrats, royalty and the wealthy entrusted Breguet with sating their horological requirements. While Breguet served male clients, he also made watches and clocks for female patrons, including Marie-Antoinette, Queen of France, L’imperatrice Joséphine and Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples.
It was Breguet, the innovator, who conceived the ‘first watch specifically designed to be worn on the wrist’. Produced for Caroline Murat, the slender, oblong-shaped repeater featured a thermometer and was affixed to the arm with a ‘wristlet of hair entwined with gold thread’.
Marie-Antoinette’s watch
The most complicated watch ever produced by Abraham-Louis Breguet was intended for a female. The ‘Grande Complication’ pocket watch number 1160, was commissioned in 1783 for Marie-Antoinette, albeit her untimely demise meant she never saw the watch. Completed in 1827, the ‘Marie-Antoinette’, as it is often called, demonstrated that mechanical complexity was not solely the preserve of men.
Throughout his career, Abraham-Louis Breguet understood the value of a customer. His commercial acumen, watchmaking expertise and capacity for innovation served him well. However, Breguet had one additional skill that has repeatedly enchanted watch aficionados past and present, namely his remarkable talent for design.
Breguet Classique Dame 8068 – a lesson in design
As previously mentioned, the new Breguet Classique Dame 8068 is endowed with a mother-of-pearl dial, an artistic canvas often selected for ladies’ watches. It also includes many of the familiar design codes much loved by Breguet devotees. For example, the dial is appointed with various guilloché patterns, all expertly imparted using a historical rose engine lathe.
On this particular model, the hours are presented on a smooth track, delineated from neighbouring elements with two thin circlets of sauté piqué. Breguet’s eponymous styles of hands and numerals impart meaning and continue to proffer much aesthetic appeal.
In terms of the case, it is 30mm in diameter and offered in a choice of 18-carat white or rose gold. Both versions incorporate exquisite caseband fluting and straight gem-set lugs, seamlessly welded to the case.
Although there are 64 diamonds embellishing the bezel, crown and lugs which are unequivocally beautiful, they augment the brilliance of the model rather than serve as a distraction. Quite simply, this watch is rich in both artisanal craftsmanship and mechanical virtue.
Breguet Classique Dame 8068 – Calibre 537/3
The Classique Dame 8068 is worthy of the term ‘Haute Horlogerie’, thanks to its exquisitely finished movement, the self-winding Calibre 537/3. Beyond its functional role, the oscillating mass is made of platinum and enriched with a barleycorn pattern, again performed on a rose engine lathe.
To the rear of the watch, a pane of sapphire crystal indulges inquisitive eyes with several refinements including chamfering, Côtes de Genève and polished screw and jewel sinks. As many horophiles will attest, Breguet doesn’t subscribe to mediocrity.
And yet, while Breguet is rich with history, the brand doesn’t dwell in the past. For example, the regulating organ is equipped with a silicon hairspring. This modern, glass-like material is not liable to corrosion, wear, nor influenced by magnetic fields; all beneficial for watchmaking.
Breguet Classique Dame 8068 – a different look
Breguet supplies the Classique Dame 8068 on a satin strap along with two colour-coordinating alligator straps. The specific hue of these latter straps is determined by which case material is selected: Teal blue and Byzantium purple for the white gold version and peacock blue and raspberry pink for the rose gold case. A neat fastener on the underside of the strap allows the wearer to exchange it swiftly, without the need for tools.
Closing remarks
There are good reasons why some consumers don’t wish to be labelled or judged according to their gender or purchasing habits. In many respects, I subscribe to unisex labelling, however, I do believe there are exceptions to the rule.
It’s a pretty safe assumption that a watch with a case diameter of 30mm is intended for a woman and I applaud Breguet for being honest and naming its watch with an overtly feminine soubriquet. The scale of the watch, its mother-of-pearl dial and the plethora of diamonds adorning the model’s bezel, crown and lugs make it fit for a queen, literally.
Breguet clearly respects women by making watches not only rich in aesthetic beauty but also in mechanical virtue. The Breguet Classique Dame 8068 should satisfy the requirements of most discerning females and, by default, respects Abraham-Louis’ incredible legacy.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: Breguet Classique Dame 8068
- Reference: 8068BR/59/764/DD00 (18ct rose gold) / 8068BB/59/764/DD00 (18ct white gold)
- Case: diameter 30 mm; height 7.7 mm, water resistance 3 ATM (30m), sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes, centre seconds
- Movement: Calibre 537/3; self-winding movement; frequency 25,200 vph (3.5 Hz); power reserve 45 hours.
- Strap: one black satin fabric strap, two colourful alligator leather strap
- Price: £24,800 (RRP as of 8.12.2023) – price applies to both versions