Louis Moinet Tempograph Spirit Watch Review
The Louis Moinet Tempograph Spirit, housed in a 40.7mm case, features a box-type sapphire crystal, openworked lugs and an enchanting retrograde seconds display. Angus Davies, no stranger to Louis Moinet ownership, examines this new model and compares it with its predecessor, the 20-second Tempograph.
Louis Moinet 20-Second Tempograph (circa 2015)
When I first saw the Louis Moinet 20-Second Tempograph, I was immediately smitten. I was particularly drawn to a version of the watch featuring a 44.5mm titanium case, incorporating a self-winding inverted movement and equipped with a blue off-centre dial. But, the one feature that really stole my heart was unquestionably the eponymous 20-second retrograde seconds display. The sight of the lone hand arcing clockwise over a blue track before returning to its point of origin proved captivating.
Eventually, I acquired my very own 20-Second Tempograph, a watch I adored. Sadly, owing to a bout of ill health, I had to sell my beloved Louis Moinet as well as several other watches from my modest collection. Economic necessity reigned supreme.
During my ownership of the 20-Second Tempograph, I became well acquainted with its many strengths and the odd drawback. Indeed, while the watch was rich in virtue, there were a couple of details that perhaps could have been better. For example, the 44.5mm case suited my wrist, but for many would-be wearers it was possibly too big. The two-part bezel looked superb, but dust annoyingly built up between both sections of metal. However, do not misconstrue, I loved this watch and found it difficult to say goodbye.
New Louis Moinet Tempograph Spirit
Kaizen is a Japanese philosophy meaning ‘change for the better’ or, as the business world likes to say, ‘continuous improvement’. With this in mind, there is an argument that a watch brand should never stand still. When I heard that Louis Moinet had revisited the 20-Second Tempograph of yesteryear and released the new Tempograph Spirit, I was initially saddened. Save for the two aforementioned gripes, I felt the 20-Second Tempograph was a perfect watch.
Jean-Marie Schaller
However, I need not have worried. Jean-Marie Schaller, the CEO and Creative Director of Louis Moinet, has repeatedly shown his prowess for creativity and design. This modest gentleman has an incredible capacity for developing products worthy of the term ‘luxury’. Indeed, in recent times, Louis Moinet, with Schaller at the helm, has received a ‘Merit for Development award from the International Institute for Promotion and Prestige (IIPP), joining previous award-winners, including NASA, Porsche and Microsoft’.
I’ve since seen the new Louis Moinet Tempograph Spirit and it is exceptional in every way. Allow me to elaborate.
Louis Moinet Tempograph Spirit – 40.7mm case
Housed in a 40.7mm case, Schaller has clearly recognised today’s widespread fondness for smaller case sizes. Would-be wearers can select 18K 5N rose gold or Grade 5 titanium for their preferred housing. Personally speaking, I love the latter metal. This alloy is corrosion-resistant, anti-magnetic, ultra-light and hypoallergenic. Grade 5 titanium is far more complex to machine than steel or gold, hence an increasing number of brands are treating it with the same reverence as noble metals.
Louis Moinet Tempograph Spirit – off-centre hour and minutes display
Consistent with its forebears, the Louis Moinet Tempograph Spirit displays the hours and minutes on an off-centre display positioned in the south-easterly region of the dial. The hands seem more contemporary and the hours are now denoted with Arabic numerals and polished batons. The display incorporates a chemin de fer, which on the blue dial variant really stands out, aiding readability.
Louis Moinet Tempograph Spirit – small seconds display
A small seconds display is positioned at 9 o’clock. This was a feature on the 20-Second Tempograph, but it’s now larger and incorporates a track marked with three-coloured sections. I never considered it an issue on the older watch, but having seen the Tempograph Spirit it’s definitely an improvement.
Retrograde seconds hand
The centrally positioned, retrograde seconds hand, presented in red lacquer, stands out again, augmenting readability. It continues to rotate clockwise, above a track, however, the track is clearer and neater. One of the notable improvements with this new model is the intelligent use of anthracite tones on the dial which create an attractive contrast, helping to accentuate the various indications and numerous refined finishes. For example, the openworked balance bridge is dressed in black and plays a deferential role to the nearby balance wheel. This shrewd use of colour emphasises the dynamic behaviour of the balance wheel as it oscillates to and fro.
The recto view of the movement also serves as a backdrop to other indications and is endowed with several refined finishes, including snailing, diamond-polished chamfers and circular satin-finished wheels.
Louis Moinet Tempograph Spirit -a cleaner and more legible display
Louis Moinet has cleverly redesigned the display, removing the knurled flange found on the 20-Second Tempograph, thereby creating more room for the various indications. Indeed, despite the diameter of the Tempograph Spirit being 3.6mm less than its predecessor, the display seems even more legible.
Louis Moinet Tempograph Spirit – box-type sapphire crystal
One of the significant differences with the new Tempograph Spirit is that the bezel of the previous model has been supplanted by a box-type sapphire crystal, bestowing spectacular lateral views of the dial. My minor mutterings about dust accumulating on the bezel of the 20-Second Tempograph have now been eradicated with the addition of this new expansive glazing.
Despite the crown guard fitted to the former model looking fine, Louis Moinet has opted for a new, sleeker design, once again improving on what has gone before.
The case features a cambered waist, engraved on its western flank with the maker’s name, while the lugs are openworked and incorporate ‘four black zircons featuring chatons held by screws’.
Louis Moinet Tempograph Spirit – calibre LM85
To the rear of the watch, a pane of sapphire crystal affords views of the Calibre LM85, self-winding movement. Consistent with the marque’s prestigious image, the finishing is exquisite. Circular Côtes de Genève, diamond-polished recesses and golden-toned circular satin-brushed gears bestow a sumptuous mien. The oscillating mass is adorned with a Clous de Paris hobnail pattern.
The Calibre LM85 comprises 254 components of which 34 are jewels. The balance has a frequency of 28,800 vph (4Hz) and the watch will run autonomously for up to 48 hours.
Louis Moinet Tempograph Spirit – closing thoughts
I’ve reached a stage in life when I no longer believe that change always delivers advancement. Sometimes in the pursuit of progress, we sometimes lose a little bit of the joy in life. Nevertheless, the notion of continuous improvement can deliver significant benefits. For example, a modern-day car delivers greater fuel efficiency, is safer and more comfortable than vehicles produced in the 80s.
Reviewing the Louis Moinet Tempograph Spirit is slightly unusual as it is an evolution of a watch I once owned. Save for a couple of foibles, I adored my 20-Second Tempograph. However, the new Tempograph Spirit represents a huge leap forward over its forebears and demonstrates the wisdom in sometimes pursuing change. Indeed, given a choice between my former love and the new Tempograph Spirit, the younger model wins every time.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: Louis Moinet Tempograph Spirit
- Case: 18K 5N rose gold case or Grade 5 titanium, diameter 40.7mm, water resistance 5ATM (50 metres), box-type sapphire crystal
- Functions: hours, minutes, retrograde seconds
- Movement: Caliber LM85, self-winding movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz), 34 jewels, power reserve 48 hours, 254 components
- Strap: Louisiana alligator leather strap paired with a matching triple-blade folding clasp.
- Price on application
- Limited Edition: 18K 5N rose gold case – 28 pieces
- Limited Edition: Grade 5 titanium case – 60 pieces