Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Lucent Steel Watch Review
The Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Lucent Steel is housed in a case made of a sustainable metal first seen in 2019 with the release of the Alpine Eagle. However, beyond its socially conscious case material, the new Mille Miglia delivers an array of additional wearer benefits.
1000 Miglia
Chopard has enjoyed a longstanding relationship with the 1000 Miglia. Indeed, the Genevan Maison became the world sponsor and official timekeeper back in 1988 and has had a notable presence at the regularity race ever since. With the odd exception, Chopard has produced a new Mille Miglia timepiece every year, on occasion, sometimes more.
Karl-Freidrich Scheufele
I suspect one reason for this longstanding relationship between Chopard and the iconic race can be attributed to one man’s enthusiasm for motorsport. Karl-Freidrich Scheufele, Co-President of Chopard, is an unabashed fan of vintage cars. A few years ago, I interviewed Mr Scheufele and recall him saying that he once dreamed of being a racing driver. Each Mille Miglia model is the manifestation of the Co-President’s passion for both cars and watches.
An annual event
As a self-confessed brand devotee, I always look forward to the company’s annual instalment of octane-rich horology. Over the years, the luxury marque has produced models in an array of sizes. In recent times, the Mille Miglia references have tended to be chronographs, albeit there have been a few delightful exceptions. For example, the Mille Miglia GTS Power Control of 2020 eschewed a stopwatch function in favour of a fuel-gauge-inspired power-reserve indicator.
Julia Roberts
Recently, while attending Watches & Wonders 2023, I visited the Maison’s impressive exhibition stand, eager to see its latest releases. I wasn’t disappointed as there were numerous ‘novelties’ on display, each designed to seduce discerning horophiles.
However, what I had not predicted was the appearance of Hollywood royalty, Julia Roberts. The box-office sensation was present as the brand announced that ‘by the end of 2023, Chopard will use Lucent Steel™️ for the production of all its steel watches – including bracelets and cases’.
Lucent Steel
Chopard used Lucent Steel™️ for the first time when it launched its Alpine Eagle model in 2019. This premium steel is predominantly made from recycled material, including ‘high-grade steel from the medical, aerospace and automotive industries’. The material is smelted twice, enhancing its purity. The resultant steel is hypoallergenic and 50% harder than conventional stainless steel, improving its scratch resistance. Due to the absence of impurities, the steel alloy also exhibits an extraordinary brilliance. Lucent Steel™️ is made in Austria by specialist company Voestalpine and appears whiter than regular 316L stainless steel.
Back in 2019, Lucent Steel™️ consisted of 70% recycled steel and was produced ‘in an environmentally-friendly manner’. By the end of 2023, that figure will rise to 80% and thereafter ‘to a minimum of 90% by 2025’. By taking this step, the Swiss brand will move a step closer towards its stated aim of ‘sustainable luxury’. Moreover, as previously stated, beyond its green credentials, the highly refined steel, delivers an array of additional wearer benefits.
Sustainable luxury
Chopard announced its environmental and social strategy, ‘The Journey to Sustainable Luxury’, back in 2013. The initiative has since demonstrated that businesses can be caring and ethical while remaining successful. The journey began with procuring ‘Ethical Gold’, “Fairmined Gold’ and diamonds that adhere to the transparency demanded by the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme. Some 10 years after embarking on this path, Chopard has stayed true to its admirable objectives. The widespread use of Lucent Steel™️ is yet one more responsible step along the way.
Chopard Mille Miglia Lucent Steel
Returning to the Mille Miglia, a watch that has always been a more accessible route to Chopard ownership, I was surprised to hear that the latest models are housed in the premium steel, once the preserve of the costlier Alpine Eagle models.
Indeed, this year’s Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph is offered in four variants, all of which are housed in Lucent Steel™️, albeit one version also employs ‘ethical 18-carat rose gold’ for the crown, bezel and pushers. This latter option is presented with a satin-brushed Grigio-Blue dial. Personally, I favour the steel only models as their silver-toned cases play a deferential role to the dials. I would liken it to a performer singing acapella, no accompaniment detracts from the headline act.
Engine-turned Nero Corsa dial
One version of the Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Lucent Steel features an engine-turned Nero Corsa dial. This latter motif was widely employed on car dashboards of yesteryear. Ironically, it is also reminiscent of perlage, a decorative finish usually found gracing the mainplate of a movement.
Rosso Amarena and Verde Chiaro dials
The latter two models feature dials executed in satin-brushed Rosso Amarena and satin-brushed Verde Chiaro. Both colours are inspired by the colours of historical racing cars. These hues would historically indicate the nation of the participating team eg Rosso (red) for Italy and Verde (Green) for Great Britain. However, while the tones reference those hues employed in the past, they are more nuanced, embracing subtle shades and gentle tonal contrast.
Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Lucent Steel – sidestepping obsolescence
While Chopard releases new iterations of the Mille Miglia each year, the styling of each new release stays true to its antecedents. Indeed, dial colours may change, but the styling remains consistent, cleverly sidestepping obsolescence.
Silver-toned, baton-type hour and minute hands converse with plump Arabic numerals to communicate the prevailing time. A generous application of Super-LumiNova to the hands and indexes ensures the watch remains legible even when negotiating deserted country roads in the dead of night.
Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Lucent Steel – three snailed counters
Three snailed counters dominate the dial. They include a 30-minute chronograph register, a 12-hour chronograph register and a small seconds display. Below noon, the Genevan Maison’s name is proclaimed, along with the famous 1000 Miglia red arrow-shaped logo and the words ‘Chronometer’. Yes, this model is a COSC-certified chronometer, providing independent assurance of the model’s timekeeping prowess. A tachymeter scale, positioned on the flange, frames the dial and provides a useful means of determining the average speed of an object over a known distance.
Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Lucent Steel – case
Housed in a 40.5 mm case, the Chopard Mille Miglia Lucent Steel is not unduly bulky and should suit most would-be wearers. The luxury marque has tastefully juxtaposed highly polished and satin-brushed surfaces to glorious effect. Consistent with the celebration of vintage cars, the Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph features a beautiful retro-inspired glassbox sapphire crystal. Rising above the dial in an arcing fashion, the stylish glazing allows light to flood the dial plane, augmenting readability.
The crown features a steering wheel motif on its vertical flank as Chopard Mille Miglia convention dictates. The ends of the pushpieces are knurled, providing a lovely tactile interaction with the movement.
Consistent with previous Mille Miglia models, Chopard’s beloved rubber strap with 1960s-themed racing tyre motif returns. However, on this occasion, it only accompanies the model fitted with the engine-turned Nero Corsa dial. The other dials are paired with a calfskin strap. Personally, I prefer this latter type of strap as it makes the model more versatile, befitting both casual wear and formal attire.
Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Lucent Steel – chronometer-certified movement
The chronometer-certified movement (COSC) is visible via an exhibition caseback. The oscillating weight is adorned with Côtes de Genève motif and the name ‘Chopard’ in golden cursive text. Additional details include blued screws, perlage and colimaçon.
Assuming the mainspring is fully tensioned, the watch will run autonomously for 54 hours. A stop-seconds function allows the wearer to synchronise the watch with a reference clock or watch.
Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Lucent Steel – closing remarks
A problem which afflicts the luxury industry is that the arrival of a new model often undermines the desirability of its forebears. Chopard cleverly navigates the issue of obsolescence by staying true to many of the longstanding Mille Miglia design codes.
Nevertheless, there is no escaping that the latest Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Lucent Steel™️ is the most desirable iteration to date. The highly lucid dial, the judicious use of colour and the chronometer-certified movement make a compelling argument for acquisition. Furthermore, using Lucent Steel™️ makes this highly competitive chronograph even more desirable.
Whether you subscribe to the idea of sustainability or not, there is no escaping that this premium metal delivers an array of wearer benefits. First of all, it looks whiter and shinier than regular 316L steel. Indeed, it reminds me more of white gold. Moreover, as it is harder than 316L, it is less susceptible to scratching, helping to preserve its showroom-fresh appearance. And lastly, the purity of Lucent Steel™️ mitigates the risk of any allergic reactions.
In my opinion, I think this year’s Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph in Lucent Steel is the best expression of Mille Miglia ownership to date.
Further reading
Technical specification
- Model: Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Lucent Steel
- Reference: 168619-3001 – in Lucent Steel A223 with engine-turned Nero Corsa dial and black rubber strap
- Reference: 168619-3003 – in Lucent Steel A223 with Rosso Amarena dial and brown calfskin strap
- Reference: 168619-3004 – in Lucent Steel A223 with Verde Chiaro dial and brown calfskin strap
- Reference: 168619-4001 – in Lucent Steel A223 and ethical 18-carat rose gold with Grigio-Blue dial and brown calfskin strap
- Case: diameter 40.5 mm, height 12.88 mm, sapphire crystal to front and exhibition case back
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, date, stop-seconds function, tachymeter scale
- Movement: self-winding movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz), 37 jewels, power reserve 54 hours, certified chronometer (COSC)
- Price: ref. 168619-3001 – £8,030 (RRP as of 18.4.2023)
- Price: ref. 168619-3003 – £8,220 (RRP as of 18.4.2023)
- Price: ref. 168619-3004 – £8,220 (RRP as of 18.4.2023)
- Price: ref. 168619-4001 – £9,660 (RRP as of 18.4.2023)