NOMOS Glashütte Orion neomatik – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte
The NOMOS Glashütte Orion neomatik – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte is available in a choice of 36, 39 or 41mm case options. Celebrating the German town’s rich history of horological excellence, this limited edition model showcases the brand’s technical expertise. US-based Meehna Goldsmith looks closely at this charming new timepiece from Saxony.
NOMOS Glashütte Orion neomatik
Upon first blush, the NOMOS Glashütte Orion neomatik – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte doesn’t look much different from the highly regarded Orion neomatik currently in the catalogue. However, there are several subtle details that differentiate this model from its non-limited counterpart. For example, the sub-seconds dial on this new version isn’t recessed, unlike the regular model.
Glashütte school of watchmaking
If you’re thinking the NOMOS Glashütte Orion neomatik – 175 is a hackneyed retread, you would be mistaken. Take a closer examination and you’ll find something pretty special. The idea behind this model is to celebrate 175 years of artistry at the Glashütte school of watchmaking. Although these historical pieces were crafted by students to demonstrate their abilities, they showed sophistication and a high degree of skill. To recognise one, delve into the archives and look for a case crafted in silver instead of more noble metals, and indices rather than numerals to mark the hours.
Image – NOMOS Glashütte Orion neomatik 41 Date – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte
Tempered blue hands
In the best designs, the devil is in the detail, and so it is with the NOMOS Glashütte Orion neomatik – 175. Based on the Orion neomatik, it features golden indices, tempered blue hands and a small seconds dial marked with black strokes. These small details imbue the watch with a more refined and sophisticated demeanour.
Image – NOMOS Glashütte Orion neomatik 41 Date – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte
Golden indices
The domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating provides a nice view of the white-silver plated dial that’s polished and galvanised, giving it a subtle texture. Those golden indices contrast nicely with the more muted palette. While many watch designs utilise indices that extend to the outer rim, these stop short. The effect draws the focus to the centre of the watch for a crisp presentation. The NOMOS branding sits below 12 o’clock in a black script, while the designation of its automatic calibre ‘neomatik’ matches the golden indices. The grippy crown at 3 o’clock bears the engraved NOMOS logo on its vertical flank.
Bauhaus design
Those versed in art history will recognise the Bauhaus-inspired design. NOMOS Glashütte hails from Germany, the cradle of the Bauhaus movement, which ran from 1919-1933. The philosophy was to bring together functional art and mass production. Key characteristics included geometric, angular and abstract design that eschewed unnecessary embellishments. Some of the artists that worked within this style included Russian painter and art theorist, Wassily Kandinsky; Swiss artist Paul Klee, who worked in and combined several mediums; and German textile artist, Gunta Stölz.
Swing system
Is the NOMOS Glashütte Orion neomatik – 175 a sharp-looking watch? There’s no question it offers fantastic aesthetics that draw you in. But is that enough for a horophile to stick around? They might initially come to gawk at the design, but they’ll stay for the mechanics. NOMOS can genuinely boast it’s a Manufacture. What this means is the brand makes the majority of the components in its own factory. Quite a few of the top-tier brands don’t have this capability. So that makes it even more remarkable, a small independent strolling among the big boys and girls that do. And, that includes making its own escapement, a combination of parts NOMOS term the ‘swing system’. You read that correctly.
Manufacture movement
The escapement is one of the most delicate and finicky parts of the movement. A handful of companies provide this component to the majority of brands. A little piece of background information: to say that a company is a Manufacture doesn’t necessarily mean it makes all movement parts. There’s a certain percentage of the movement that a brand must produce to honestly put forth the claim, however, most Manufacture’s source the escapement or ‘assortiment’ from a third-party specialist. NOMOS Glashütte is a rare exception to the rule.
Calibre DUW 3001 / Calibre DUW 6101
In a joint project with the Technical University of Dresden, NOMOS Glashütte spent years developing and prototyping an original escapement. The years of hard work paid off with the debut of the NOMOS swing system, revealed in 2014 in the Metro model. Of course, the sleek automatic calibre DUW 3001 powering the Orion neomatik – 175 gets the benefit of this system (the 41mm version is fitted with calibre DUW 6101, but again features the swing system). Other hallmarks of the NOMOS brand are the traditional Glashütte construction and movement finishing, including a three-quarter plate, Glashütte ribbing and tempered blue screws.
Image – Calibre DUW 3001
Image – Calibre DUW 6101
175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte
The NOMOS Glashütte Orion neomatik – 175 comes in three different guises, limited to 175 pieces each: the 36mm and 39mm Orion neomatik, and the 41mm neomatik date. The back of the case is engraved, ‘Limited Edition Orion – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte 1/175’. The watch comes on a Horween genuine shell cordovan black strap that fastens with a stainless steel winged clasp.
Image – NOMOS Glashütte Orion neomatik 39 – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte
In some cases ‘new’ watches come down to little more than surface changes, such as a dial colour or different fonts. The NOMOS Glashütte Orion neomatik – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte is a timepiece that pays tribute to the Glashütte region and its 175 years of watchmaking history. And, one that will make the current students and those who came before, very proud.
Note – all images – Copyright: NOMOS Glashütte
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: NOMOS Glashütte Orion neomatik – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte
- Case: stainless steel, diameter 36mm or 39mm, water resistance 3 ATM (36mm version) 5ATM (39mm version), sapphire crystal to front. Exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds
- Movement: Calibre DUW3001, automatic movement, 27 jewels; power reserve up to 43 hours.
- Strap: Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan black paired with a steel winged clasp
- Price – 36mm: £3040 (RRP as of 13.6.2023)
- Price – 39mm: £3180 (RRP as of 13.6.2023)
- Model: NOMOS Glashütte Orion neomatik – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte
- Case: stainless steel, diameter 41mm, water resistance 5 ATM (50m), sapphire crystal to front. Exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, date
- Movement: Calibre DUW6101, automatic movement, 27 jewels; power reserve up to 42 hours.
- Strap: Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan black paired with a steel winged clasp
- Price – 41mm: £3500 (RRP as of 13.6.2023)