Horology for land, sea and air
Mühle-Glashütte has created the S.A.R Flieger-Chronograph, a “Flieger-Chronograph” specifically for the rescue pilots from the German Navy.
As we live in a world of celebrity and glamorous red carpet events, we see wonderful timepieces gracing the wrists belonging to stars of stage and screen. Watches featuring ornate designs and glistening gems, sparkle in the flashlights of the Paparazzi. I make no secret of my admiration for some of these exquisite horological delicacies. However, other than making a fashion statement, there is another rationale to watch ownership, and that is, not surprisingly to convey time.
Ever since Harrison invented the marine chronometer, back in the 18th century, watches have proved useful in a variety of professions. In the 20th century, this saw numerous iterations of pilot’s watches being created for flying professionals.
Mühle-Glashütte have created a “Flieger-Chronograph” specifically for the rescue pilots from the German Navy, who regularly work together with the rescue workers of the German Maritime Search and Rescue Service (Deutsche Gesellschaft zur Rettung Schiffbrüchiger).
Even when the naming of the watch refers to flight, these robust timepieces have links to the hostile seas, navigated by seafarers for hundreds of years. The company pays hommage to maritime needs with a range of nautical instruments including a handsome, yet functional, marine chronometer manufactured to DIN 8319, making it suitable for professional navigational use.
As a former student of navigation, I still recall using my Norie’s nautical tables and performing countless calculations using terms; “d.lat” and “d.long”. The bridge of a modern ship relies heavily on GPS, yet, there remains a need to perform calculations should systems fail.
Mühle-Glashütte have created a chronograph specifically for the Search and Rescue pilots, abbreviated to S.A.R for naming purposes. Thankfully the German brand allows us, mere mortals, who prefer the safety of terra firma, to enjoy the masculine persona of their S.A.R. Flieger-Chronograph.
I confess to having a weakness for watches originating from Glashütte, evidenced with one or two personal purchases. Glashütte ribbing, three-quarter plates and gold chatons are all aspects which are synonymous with the finest timepieces from the town, a few miles from Dresden. However, prior to seeing the S.A.R Flieger-Chronograph, I knew little about the company, Mühle Glashütte.
Hans-Jürgen Mühle launched the brand in 1994 with two employees, creating marine chronometers and marine time systems. In 1996, the brand created its first wristwatch and since this date it has progressively expanded, now employing 51 staff.
Clearly, this is not mass-manufacturing on the scale of some of the better known brands. However, there is much merit and appeal with several of the models presented and whilst the focus of this review is the S.A.R. Flieger-Chronograph, I anticipate further watch reviews about this brand’s products will ensue over the coming months.
The dial
The black dial features orange and white details bestowing a bright and highly legible display.
The hour and minute hands are black with white tips. The former has a white triangular tip, echoing the design language of the traditional index located at noon. This is reminiscent of pilot’s watches of the 1930s and 40s.
Hours are marked with bold white batons, with smaller integers arranged on the chapter ring.
A subsidiary seconds display is located at 3 o’clock featuring white detailing. This incorporates a stop-second, sometimes referred to as a “hacking seconds function”. The wearer can pull out the crown and cause the second hand to halt. This function is faithful to traditional pilot’s watches and proves ideal when synchronising watches with fellow squadron members.
The central chrono-seconds hand is tipped with orange and white.
A 30-minute chrono counter is located at 6 o’clock and a 12-hour chrono counter is located at noon. Both of these subdials feature orange Arabic numerals and detailing.
At 8 o’clock a date aperture is located.
Between noon and 2 o’clock an orange scale is depicted, suitable for recording short time measurements in order that the wearer can extrapolate flight speeds.
Having worn many chronographs, the design of the dial represents a departure from the normal layout and is not typical of watches I have previously worn. However, I have no doubt, after a short acquaintance, it will become readily familiar.
The case
The stainless steel case measures 44mm in diameter with a case height of 16.2mm. It has generous proportions aiding legibility. Moreover, the luminous details on the watch help readability in fading light conditions.
A bidirectional bezel featuring white Arabic numerals, reinforces the brave bearing of the watch.
The winding crown is located at 9 o’clock with the chrono pushers located either side. The brand has embraced the concept of “form follows function”. Locating the crown and pushers on the left hand side of the dial, they do not gouge the wearer’s skin or impinge on free movement.
The pusher at 8 o’clock starts and stops the chronograph. It has an elongated profile making it easier for the wearer to operate with their thumb and courtesy of its scale, can be operated with gloved hands.
The pusher at 10 o’clock resets the chronograph.
Mühle-Glashütte reminds the wearer that this is a mechanical timepiece by fitting a sapphire caseback to the watch.
The movement
I applaud the honesty of Mühle-Glashütte by openly mentioning it uses the ETA 7750 and ETA 7753 in several of its models. Several brands now talk of “manufacture movements” but there are few chronograph movements which can beat the popularity and reliability of the ETA 7750.
The German brand has enhanced the movement, relabelling it the MU 9408. It has featured a three-quarter plate synonymous with watches from this region. Moreover, the balance cock is delightfully detailed with perlage. A cam jumper features straight graining and there is circular graining visible on other surfaces. Blued screws further confer a sense of quality and stand testament to the fine finishing practised at the atelier in the Saxony.
The chronograph is sadly not column wheel actuated, but cam actuated. However, it would be unlikely for the purchaser to find the more costly castellated column wheel on a watch at this price level.
A detail featuring on this watch, only found in Mühle-Glashütte’s timepieces is the “woodpecker neck” regulation index. It provides the watchmaker with fine adjustment of the watches rate. It is an indication of the distilled delivery of the timepiece which makes it worthy of note.
Conclusion
Like many admirers of this watch, my aeronautical exploits are confined to quaffing drinks on a long-haul flight. Moreover, the nearest I will come to adventure on the high seas will be to watch a re-run on television of The Poseidon Adventure. Yet, I adore the way this watch has the capacity for professional use.
It has the potential to deliver more than its wearer requires. It reminds me of a high performance car. The driver will never fully explore the performance available or reach the maximum speed of the vehicle. Yet, the enjoyment comes from knowing that a possession has potential, rather than feeling a need to fully exploit the extreme limits of its specification. It is this characteristic which imparts owner enchantment.
The Mühle-Glashütte S.A.R. Flieger-Chronograph has much capability, delivered in a grand form, harnessing much mechanical merit. This is a timepiece equally worthy of life on the land, in the air on upon the ocean waves.
|
|
Technical Specification
- Model: Mühle Glashütte S.A.R Flieger-Chronograph
- Reference: M1-41-33-KB (rubber strap version) M1-41-33-MB (steel bracelet version)
- Case: Stainless steel; diameter 44.0mm; height 16.2mm; Water resistant to 10 bar (100 metres); sapphire crystal to front and rear.
- Functions: Hours; minutes; subsidiary seconds; date; chronograph
- Movement: MU 9408; self-winding; frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz); 25 jewels; power reserve 48 hours.
- Strap: Rubber or stainless steel strap with stainless steel safety clasp and extension.