Maurice Lacroix AIKON Skeleton Urban Tribe Watch Review
The Maurice Lacroix AIKON Skeleton Urban Tribe features a sapphire dial that affords sight of an open-worked movement, the Calibre ML115. Inspired by architecture, in particular the concrete, glass and steel structures synonymous with cityscapes, this watch also features an intricately engraved case, endowed with an elaborate series of motifs.
Maurice Lacroix watch review
Some of the greatest cities in the world indulge visitors with an array of fantastic experiences. Breathtaking architecture, diverse cuisine, a myriad of musical influences as well as numerous opportunities for retail therapy, provide compelling reasons to visit the world’s most vibrant metropolises. However, like any scenario, there is always a flip side.
For example, negotiating the pedestrian walkways that frame bustling avenues can prove a scary experience at times. Loud noises, strange smells and pavements in ankle-twisting disrepair, are just some of the ordeals facing the unsuspecting city dweller. Moreover, tensions can become heightened when inhabitants squabble over the same square inches of limited space.
It is within this urban jungle, that we seek a place of sanctuary, where we can put our defences down and enjoy a moment’s respite from the madness. These municipal refuges are places where we can relax with family and friends. We sometimes refer to this latter group of individuals as a ‘tribe’, a clan of like-minded souls who we turn to for friendship and support, particularly in our hour of need. Quite simply, we all yearn to be part of a tribe.
Maurice Lacroix AIKON Tribe (2021)
Maurice Lacroix, the watch brand from Franches Montagnes, has clearly identified the allure of city life while at the same time recognising the desire to be part of a tribe. In August 2021, the Swiss marque released the AIKON Urban Tribe, a 42 mm steel watch, limited to just 500 pieces. The case of this contemporary watch was adorned with numerous engraved motifs. These patterns, comprising intricate lines and curling details, imbued the watch with a distinctive and unique character.
Maurice Lacroix AIKON Skeleton (2022)
In April 2022, the Swiss marque released another urban-inspired timepiece, the Maurice Lacroix AIKON Skeleton. Again, it paid tribute to urban architecture but eschewed said engraved motifs, and embraced a wholly new openworked design. In this instance, the watch was slightly smaller, measuring 39 mm in diameter.
When Maurice Lacroix set out to produce the AIKON Skeleton it turned to movement specialist Sellita. The resultant open-worked movement, the exclusive Automatic ML115 (base SW200), embraced an architectural design with several beam-like sections of mainplate providing structural rigidity. This latter characteristic was essential to avoid any unwanted flex that could potentially impair the operation of the gear train and various other moving parts.
Maurice Lacroix AIKON Skeleton Urban Tribe – a fusion of styles
Now, the luxury watch brand has created a new timepiece, the Maurice Lacroix AIKON Skeleton Urban Tribe. As its name implies, the watch fuses elements of the AIKON Urban Tribe (2021) with the AIKON Skeleton (2022).
Maurice Lacroix AIKON Skeleton Urban Tribe – the dial
Once again housed in a 39 mm stainless steel case, the new AIKON Skeleton Urban Tribe is inspired by the tall architectural structures that dominate many city landscapes, while simultaneously paying tribute to the close bond shared between those individuals that inhabit these congested spaces.
The hands, indexes and dial flange are sandwiched between two panes of sapphire crystal. There is the usual external pane of sapphire protecting the watch from dust and moisture, but there is also a further internal pane of sapphire crystal positioned directly above the open-worked movement.
The sapphire dial is used to support the hour markers and also plays host to the brand’s logo, positioned below noon. The hour and minute hands are faceted and lined with Super-LumiNova, aiding readability in dim light conditions. A minute track frames the dial, proving useful when reading off the minutes and seconds.
By adopting this open-worked design, the movement reveals numerous components usually hidden from view. In particular, the wearer is able to see the mainspring, courtesy of a roofless barrel, and the motion works at the centre of the dial. Furthermore, the balance wheel is visible at the top of the display performing its whirling dance, twirling to and fro.
A problem sometimes afflicting some skeleton watches is that the time indications can be lost in a sea of exposed plates and parts. Thankfully, no such criticisms can be directed towards the new AIKON Skeleton Tribe; its legibility is beyond reproach.
Maurice Lacroix AIKON Skeleton Urban Tribe – the case
The Skeleton Urban Tribe incorporates some of the much-loved design codes synonymous with the AIKON, the Swiss firm’s highly popular timepiece. For instance, the bezel features the familiar 6-arm design and the watch includes the AIKON’s ergonomic integrated steel bracelet.
The exterior of the Urban Tribe is endowed with an intricate motif. According to the brand, the various motifs are ‘inspired by the concrete, glass and steel structures which have come to define the avenues and boulevards populating the World’s most vibrant cities’. The resultant textures implore the observer to touch each facet of the case with an outstretched finger and discover its many tactile delights.
To the rear of the watch, a pane of sapphire crystal provides additional views of the Calibre ML115. Moreover, it also allows light to pass through the watch, granting front to rear views.
Consistent with other AIKON models, the Skeleton Urban Tribe comes with the brand’s Easy Strap Exchange System. Courtesy of four M-branded catches to the rear of the case, the wearer can easily swap the bracelet for a suitable rubber or leather strap without the need for tools.
Calibre ML115
The Maurice Lacroix AIKON Skeleton Urban Tribe reveals the naked torso of the Calibre ML115. In order to spare its blushes, the Swiss watch company has dressed the automatic movement in a suit of rhodium plating. The firm has also enriched the appearance of the Calibre ML115 by adorning it with perlage and colimaçon. Furthermore, the Maison has also open-worked the oscillating mass to reveal more of the intricately formed movement beneath.
The balance has a frequency of 28,800 vph (4 Hz) and the movement contains 26 jewels. Assuming the watch is fully wound, it will run autonomously for 38 hours.
Maurice Lacroix AIKON Skeleton Urban Tribe – closing thoughts
Since Maurice Lacroix released the inaugural AIKON in 2016, the watch has gone on to become a huge commercial success. One reason for this achievement is the brand’s consistent approach to design. The AIKON Skeleton Urban Tribe builds on these qualities with its distinctive open-worked look that indulges the wearer with views of the numerous movement components engaged in a spellbinding choreographed dance. Moreover, the beam-like construction of the mainplate and bridges pay tribute to the awe-inspiring structures that have come to define the skylines of numerous cities.
With all of its fascinating details, Maurice Lacroix has not sacrificed practicality on the altar of style. Indeed, the dial is simple to read while the case and bracelet ensemble deliver incredible wearer comfort.
Limited to just 500 pieces, the AIKON Skeleton Urban Tribe will be a comparatively rare sight, enjoyed by an exclusive club; a tribe of like-minded souls who can readily discern horological virtue in the midst of the urban jungle.
Further reading
https://www.mauricelacroix.com/
Technical specifications
- Model: Maurice Lacroix AIKON Skeleton Urban Tribe
- Reference: AI6007-SS009-030-1
- Case: stainless steel; diameter 39 mm; height 11 mm; water resistance 20 ATM (200 m); sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back.
- Functions: Hours; minutes; central seconds
- Movement: Automatic skeleton ML115; self-winding movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz); 26 jewels; power reserve 38 hours.
- Strap/bracelet: Steel 5-rows bracelet with Easy strap Exchange system
- Price: CHF 3,990 including VAT (RRP as of 9.10.2023)