DOXA SUB 300β collection in steel watch review
The DOXA SUB 300β collection unites robustness with an endearing dose of urban chic. Each model is housed in a 316L stainless steel case and features a unidirectional ceramic bezel. They also include a helium valve and are water-resistant to 300 M. Meehna Goldsmith looks at DOXA’s rich history of making divers’ watches before looking closely at this new collection of models.
Image – DOXA SUB 300β Caribbean
DOXA Watch
The SUB 300 series has a special place in DOXA’s history. It kicked off its entry into the dive watch space. When dive watches became available in the 1930s, they were expensive to produce. Thirty years later, not much had changed; dive watches couldn’t break out of their niche position because of their cost. In 1964 DOXA’s head of development, Urs Eschle, decided to take a crack at building a dive watch that was accessible to more people by way of a lower price point.
Image – DOXA SUB 300β Divingstar
DOXA x Jacques-Yves Cousteau
To put his plan into action, Eschle consulted with one of the pioneers of underwater ocean exploration, Jacques-Yves Cousteau. Three years later in 1967, DOXA presented the SUB 300 and SUB 300T at Baselworld. The models featured large cases and wide, rounded lugs. True professional dive watches, these SUBS were water resistant to 300 metres and passed all the certifications required for professional diving.
Image – DOXA SUB 300β Aquamarine
The first patented unidirectional rotating bezel
Even more impressive, DOXA bested the big boys by introducing the first patented unidirectional rotating bezel engraved with the US Navy’s no-compression dive calculating marks with dual dive time and depth indications. In this way, divers could safely ascend without having to wait for decompression stops. Cousteau trusted the SUB 300 so much that he obtained exclusive distribution rights in the United States.
Image – DOXA SUB 300β Searambler
And that wasn’t all: the dials were orange! This was a bold choice and one that diverged from the traditional black and white favoured at the time. But it wasn’t a ‘parlor trick’. DOXA had solid evidence from research done in Lake Neuchâtel that the hue was easier to see underwater. Since its introduction, the orange dial has become a trademark for the brand.
Image – DOXA SUB 300β Professional
DOXA 300T Conquistador with a Helium Release Valve
In 1969, DOXA advanced its technology further and presented the 300T Conquistador with a Helium Release Valve (HRV). During saturation diving at depths greater than 300 metres, helium can build up in the watch, causing the crystal to pop off. The HRV prevents this problem by allowing the helium particles to escape, while the screw-down crown ensures the case stays water-resistant.
Image – DOXA SUB 300β Caribbean
DOXA SUB 300β case
The DOXA SUB 300β refines the Conquistador, keeping its functional attributes and at the same time updating its aesthetics. The stainless steel case retains its 42.5 mm diameter but trims down the height by almost 2 mm to 11.95 mm from the SUB 300T’s 13.65 mm. In addition, the bezel is reduced by 0.5 mm, resulting in a sleek and modern profile that also wears lighter on the wrist.
Image – DOXA SUB 300β Professional
DOXA SUB 300β colours
What first grabs the eye with the SUB 300β models is the pops of colour on the carbon bezel as well as on the dial’s sunburst finish, which is accompanied by a wave pattern. The ‘β’ in the model name stands for ‘BETA’ factor, which refers to the redesign and fresh palette. Four colourways are offered: orange, blue, yellow and aqua. The hour markers and hour hand, filled with luminescence for low lighting conditions, are outlined in the matching hue.
Image – DOXA SUB 300β Aquamarine
FKM rubber straps
The models are paired with a FKM rubber strap matching the dial’s colour. When contrasted with regular rubber, costlier FKM proffers superior suppleness, resistance and retains its colour for longer. For the Caribbean and Searambler references, the SUB 300β has the option of a white strap. Additionally, there is a stainless steel ‘beads of rice’ bracelet available if desired. All straps secure to the case using a deployant clasp featuring a wetsuit extension emblazoned with the DOXA fish symbol.
Image – DOXA SUB 300β Searambler
DOXA SUB 300β movement
The diver gets its juice from a Swiss automatic movement decorated by DOXA. Fully juiced it has a power reserve of about 38 hours.
DOXA SUB 300β closing thoughts
With the SUB 300β, DOXA unites its historical diving credentials with a sporty and contemporary look. The result is a handsome watch that’s perfectly at home above sea level as well as below.
Further reading
Technical specification
- Model: DOXA SUB 300β
- Case: 316L stainless steel; dimensions 42.50 mm x 44.50 mm; height 11.95 mm; water resistance 30 ATM (300 metres); sapphire crystal to front and solid case back
- Functions: hours; minutes; central sweep seconds; date
- Movement: ‘Swiss mechanical movement’; self-winding movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz); power reserve 38 hours
- Strap: FKM rubber strap, tone-on-tone matching the dial (or white for ‘Caribbean’ and ‘Searambler’); black PVD-coated folding clasp with ratcheting wetsuit extension, ‘DOXA fish’ symbol or 316L stainless steel ‘beads of rice’ bracelet; stainless steel folding clasp with ratcheting wetsuit extension, ‘DOXA fish’ symbol
- Price: £2,150 (rubber strap – RRP as of 10.12.2023) / £2,190 (beads of rice bracelet – RRP as of 10.12.2023)