Roger Dubuis Excalibur Titanium Monotourbillon Watch Review
The new Roger Dubuis Excalibur Titanium Monotourbillon, recently launched at Watches & Wonders 2024, is another example of ‘Hyper Horology’ bearing the prestigious Poinçon de Genève on its sleeve. Endowed with a skeleton calibre, a flying tourbillon and housed in Grade 5 titanium, the specification of this new model embodies everything that is wonderful about the Geneva-based Manufacture.
Roger Dubuis watch
We had a good holiday, the food was nice, the room was fine and the nightlife was ok. At this point, I can hear Mr Lucas, my former English teacher, screaming with anger at my widespread use of weak adjectives. However, in many instances, what we encounter in our everyday lives justifies little more than a few vacuous words. Sadly, we are surrounded by boring, mediocre and ordinary products and services that deserve little more than perfunctory prose.
Roger Dubuis Meyrin
Thankfully, on the outskirts of Geneva, there is a Manufacture where excellence is the order of the day. Indeed, the modern building in Meyrin is a creative enclave where horological dreams are brought to life, where compromise is anathema to the company’s watchmakers and where exalted craftsmanship is practised each day by time-served artisans. This is home to Roger Dubuis, makers of ‘Hyper Horology’; a world where superlatives are justified.
At this juncture, you have probably ascertained I am an unabashed fan of the Swiss marque. While the firm’s models certainly engage with my heart, my positive opinion of the brand is primarily based on logic.
Hyper Horology
I’ve visited the Manufacture on several occasions and witnessed staff painstakingly mirror-polish components to a flawless gleam. Likewise, I’ve observed highly trained watchmakers patiently unite hundreds of components to form an exquisite timepiece before the protracted process of regulation begins. At every stage of production, from the receipt of raw materials to the despatch of finished watches, everything meets the onerous requirements of the Poinçon de Genève and its team of auditors.
Roger Dubuis does not play it safe with conservative or traditional designs. The brand subscribes to bold, provocative and rebellious styles. The appearance of a Roger Dubuis will inevitably polarise opinion; alienating some horophiles, while simultaneously seducing other watch fanatics. Nevertheless, by employing ultra-refined materials, no-compromise specifications and exalted finishing, the Maison sits among the watchmaking elite.
Indeed, the Manufacture flourishes in the rarefied atmosphere of Haute Horlogerie or, as I mentioned earlier, ‘Hyper Horology’, a term that forms part of the vernacular in Meyrin.
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Titanium Monotourbillon – Watches & Wonders 2024
Despite the bar already being set very high, the Swiss firm has just launched a new model that is unquestionably my favourite expression of Hyper Horology to date. Unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2024, the new Roger Dubuis Excalibur Titanium Monotourbillon is endowed with a flying tourbillon, comes housed in a very wearable 42 mm case, formed of lightweight Grade 5 titanium, and bears the prestigious the Poinçon de Genève on its torso. But why is it my favourite Roger Dubuis to date? Allow me to elaborate.
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Titanium Monotourbillon – skeleton
Skeleton calibres are a speciality of Roger Dubuis. They are a horological delicacy that should be produced solely by the most proficient companies. Traditionally, skeleton watches involved taking a ‘regular’ calibre and removing superfluous material from the mainplate and bridges using handsaws and files. The watchmaker would exercise great care not to remove essential metal close to the jewel beds, screws, etc. Moreover, they would ensure that, despite paring away material, the calibre retained sufficient strength and rigidity to remain reliable and precise.
In the case of modern-day Roger Dubuis watches, the movements are designed from the outset to be skeleton calibres. CAD systems are employed for design but also to calculate the forces acting on different parts of the movement. Using CNC machines, bridges and plates are milled to minute tolerances, often measured in microns. Ultimately, the resultant calibre is free of potential flex, strong and delivers the desired reliability and precision.
The charm of a skeleton watch, and the reason for its creation, is that it confers a wonderful transparency and, in this instance, provides magnificent front-to-rear views. Indeed, with the Excalibur Titanium Monotourbillon, the absence of a dial, together with abundant glazing, front and rear, allows the wearer to see many of the 194 exquisitely finished components within.
In some instances, the dial indications on a skeleton watch can prove difficult to read, seemingly melting within the background of fine movement beams and components. Thankfully, no such problems afflict the Excalibur Titanium Monotourbillon. No, the wearer of this skeleton watch can easily read the time and simultaneously admire a beautiful naked movement. It seems horological voyeurs have never had it so good!
Roger Dubuis Calibre RD512SQ – Flying Tourbillon
Roger Dubuis is also known for its fondness for tourbillons. This high complication involves placing the escapement and regulating organ within a rotating cage, driven by the fourth wheel of the gear train. By revolving 360° every minute, the adverse influence of gravity is negated. The Manufacture has produced both single tourbillons and double tourbillons.
As its name implies, the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Titanium Monotourbillon features one gravity-defying cage. However, what the name does not convey is that this movement is not a ‘regular’ tourbillon but a ‘flying tourbillon’, yet another speciality of the Maison.
Abraham-Louis Breguet invented the tourbillon (patented in 1801). In 1920, Alfred Helwig, a highly accomplished German watchmaker, invented the ‘flying tourbillon’. His mechanism eschewed the upper tourbillon bridge, found with Breguet’s system, supporting it solely from underneath.
Helwig’s invention provides unhindered views of the escapement and regulating organ rotating within the tourbillon cage, bestowing an almost balletic performance. Indeed, due to the absence of an upper bridge, the wearer can see the hairspring breathe, the balance wheel oscillate to and fro and the pallet jewels repeatedly kiss the escape wheel.
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Titanium Monotourbillon case
As stated previously, the case and bracelet are formed of Grade 5 titanium. Unlike Grade 2 titanium which is pure titanium, Grade 5 is an alloy composed of almost 90% titanium, 6% aluminium, 4% vanadium along with small traces of iron and oxygen. This latter alloy is more expensive than pure titanium but is stronger and can be polished to a resplendent shine.
Unlike stainless steel 316L, Grade 5 titanium has a low ductility meaning it cannot be cold formed (stamped). Creating a case and bracelet in Grade 5 titanium necessitates using a CNC machine which is far costlier.
However, beyond its notable strength, Grade 5 titanium is light, corrosion-resistant, non-magnetic and hypoallergenic; all useful attributes for a watch. When I affixed the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Titanium Monotourbillon to my wrist, I found its size, design and lightness delivered a cosseting wrist feel.
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Titanium Monotourbillon – closing remarks
Founded in 1995, Roger Dubuis is a comparatively young brand. However, in a relatively short period, it has repeatedly demonstrated its capacity for invention, respect for traditional craftsmanship and its willingness to subject itself to the watchful eye of TimeLab’s auditors (Poinçon de Genève).
This latest model, the Excalibur Titanium Monotourbillon, showcases everything that’s wonderful about the Manufacture. It’s a delicious dish featuring many of the brand’s favourite ingredients, including a skeleton calibre, a flying tourbillon and a Grade 5 titanium case and bracelet. Moreover, this mouthwatering feast is also served with a portion of independently assured Geneva Seal on the side.
Highly precise, simple to read, beautifully made and incredibly comfortable to wear; there are insufficient adjectives to convey the magnificence of this superb timepiece, my favourite Roger Dubuis reference to date.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Titanium Monotourbillon
- Reference: RDDBEX1111
- Case: Grade 5 titanium, diameter 42 mm, height 12.62 mm, water resistance 10 ATM (100 m), sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds (on top of tourbillon cage)
- Movement: RD512SQ calibre, manual-winding movement, 19 jewels, power reserve 72 hours, 194 components.
- Strap: Titanium grade 5 bracelet, satin-brushed with polished bevels, integrated buckle,
interchangeable with Quick Release System (QRS).
Price: US $151,000 (RRP as of 18.4.2024)
- Limited Edition: 28 pieces – boutique exclusive