Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix self-winding Watch Review
Vacheron Constantin, the prestigious Manufacture that’s famously been in continuous operation for over 265 years, has just released an additional version of the Fiftysix self-winding. Unveiled at Watches and Wonders Shanghai 2024, this latest reference is housed in a 40 mm pink gold case paired with a sumptuous deep black dial.
Image – Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix self-winding Reference: 4600E/000R-H101
Vacheron Constantin watch
In 1755, Jean-Marc Vacheron, a 24 year-old master watchmaker, recruited his first apprentice and founded a company that has since become known to legions of watch aficionados. Established in Geneva, the birthplace of Swiss watchmaking, Vacheron Constantin has remained in continuous operation ever since.
The Swiss marque is synonymous with Haute Horlogerie and its esteemed reputation spreads far and wide. Its vast archives, created long before the advent of computerised CRM systems, are populated with names of former clients, including royalty, aristocracy and heads of state.
Vacheron Constantin – Métiers d’Art
The cognoscenti often refer to the ‘Holy Trinity of Watchmaking’, citing three companies: Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe and, you guessed it, Vacheron Constantin. An arbiter of good taste and always at the forefront of design, Vacheron Constantin is known for creating exemplars of métiers d’art. Indeed, over the last 269 years, the Maison has crafted an array of horological delights encompassing various crafts, including hand-guilloché, hand-engraving, Grand Feu enamelling, miniature painting and Haute Joaillerie.
Hand-guilloché – image: copyright ©️ Bruno Hers
Grand Feu – image: copyright ©️ Bruno Hers
Gem-setting – image: copyright ©️ Bruno Hers
Vacheron Constantin – Grand Complications
Vacheron Constantin has also gained an enviable reputation for being a master of ‘complications’. This latter term is used to describe those functions found on a watch over and above the mere indication of hours and minutes.
Back in 1932, the Geneva-based firm famously began creating a unique pocket watch for the American banker Henry Graves Jr, ‘one of the world’s greatest collectors of complication watches’. The model (Inv. no.10951) was equipped with a tourbillon escapement and featured a split-seconds chronograph, perpetual calendar, moon phases and a power-reserve indicator. It was eventually delivered in 1934, two years after it was commissioned.
In September 2015, coinciding with its 260th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin unveiled the Reference 57260. At the time, this timepiece was said to be the ‘most complicated watch ever made’, boasting a total of 57 complications.
Image – Vacheron Constantin Reference 57260
Vacheron Constantin’s rare expertise in making Grand Complications continues to flourish courtesy of ‘Les Cabinotiers’, the company’s specialist department dedicated to the making of bespoke timepieces. This centre of watchmaking excellence has gained a reputation for bringing horological dreams to life.
Image – Les Cabinotiers – The Berkley Grand Complication
Earlier this year in April 2024, the Swiss marque released ‘Les Cabinotiers – The Berkley Grand Complication’, a watch so complex, it even surpassed the Reference 57260’s dizzying array of complications. Incorporating the double-sided Calibre 3752, the Berkley Grand Complication is a horological magnum opus. It has an astonishing 63 complications and is currently ‘the world’s most complicated watch’; however based on its track record, it is likely that somewhere at the Manufacture a brilliant mind is busily conceiving a new post-dated record breaker!
Image – Les Cabinotiers – The Berkley Grand Complication
Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix (2018)
Back in 2018, at SIHH, the Manufacture unveiled the Fiftysix, a suite of models comprising the Fiftysix self-winding, Fiftysix day-date with power-reserve indicator and the Fiftysix complete calendar. Later that same year, in September, Vacheron Constantin also released the Fiftysix Tourbillon.
Image – Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Self-Winding 40 mm steel Reference 4600E/000A-B442
Inspired by the 6073 model, an elegant timepiece made in 1956, the Fiftysix was not a facsimile of the former model but rather a reimagination of what had gone before. Notable characteristics, common to all members of the collection, include a period-inspired box-type crystal and a sector dial.
Image – Vacheron Constantin Reference 6073 (1956)
Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix self-winding (2018) – steel or pink gold
At the time of its release, some commentators bemoaned the comparative simplicity of the Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix self-winding, after all this was made by the company that occupies the No.1 slot in the ‘complications hit parade’. However, these so-called experts had clearly not thumbed through Franco Cologni’s excellent book, ‘Secrets of Vacheron Constantin’. Indeed, turn the pages of this book and you will soon discover that since its inception in 1755, the esteemed company has made countless timepieces that merely indicate the hours and minutes (and sometimes seconds). It seems Vacheron Constantin is no stranger to crafting simpler watches and has an equally impressive track record when it comes to making refined time-only creations.
Image – Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Self-Winding 40 mm pink gold Reference 4600E-000R-B441
One factor that differentiates the Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix self-winding from its complicated siblings is undoubtedly its price, especially when specified with a steel case. While this model should not be considered a budget option, this is VC after all, the advent of the Fiftysix self-winding has brought the Maltese cross emblem that bit closer to a greater number of wrists.
Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix self-winding – new variants released
Initially, the Fiftysix self-winding was available in a choice of steel or pink gold, both of which sported a silver-toned sector dial. Often an indication of sales success, Vacheron Constantin later released further variants of the Fiftysix. Firstly, in 2019, the firm unveiled a steel reference with a petrol blue dial. Thereafter, the brand launched two additional references, a steel case/blue dial combo with a matching steel bracelet and a pink gold model with a distinctive sepia-brown dial.
Image – Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Self-Winding 40 mm steel Reference 4600E/000A-B487
Image – Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Self-Winding 40 mm pink gold Reference 4600E/000R-B576
Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix self-winding – Watches & Wonders Shanghai 2024
At Watches and Wonders Shanghai 2024, the Manufacture has released a new version of the Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix self-winding, this time uniting a pink gold case with a black dial. However, true to form, when it comes to Vacheron Constantin, nothing is quite as simple as it may appear.
The black dial is executed in two finishes – the centre is opaline while the chapter ring is endowed with a sunburst execution. This nuanced marriage of finishes is exquisite and for the first time appears on a Fiftysix. Masterfully playing with contrasts, the Manufacture has equipped the watch with an eye-catching anthracite nubuck calfskin strap, punctuated with ecru stitching.
As the name of the model implies, the watch features an automatic movement, the Calibre 1326. An exhibition caseback grants sight of the pink gold oscillating mass and the Côtes de Genève decoration.
Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix self-winding – closing remarks
When a brand releases additional versions of an existing model, some so-called experts (those that haven’t read Signore Cologni’s book), disparagingly refer to them as mere ‘animations’. However, while a new dial or case execution may initially sound insignificant, if those changes fit with the client’s notion of a ‘perfect watch’, then clearly the personnel at the Manufacture have done their job. However, I suspect many ardent fans of VC, will point out that the brand has been making perfect watches since 1755.
Further reading
https://www.vacheron-constantin.com/
Technical specifications
- Model: Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix self-winding
- Reference: 4600E/000R-H101
- Case: 18k 5N pink gold, diameter 40 mm, height 9.6 mm, sapphire crystal to front, exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes, centre seconds, date
- Movement: Manufacture calibre 1326, self-winding movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz), 25 jewels, power reserve approximately 48 hours, 142 components
- Strap: Anthracite nubuck calfskin leather strap with calfskin lining and ecru stitching paired with an 18K 5N pink gold pin buckle.
- Price: £24,500 (RRP as of 28.8.2024)