Vacheron Constantin Historique 222 Steel Watch Review
The Vacheron Constantin Historique 222 Steel is the first release of what promises to be a prolific year for the Geneva-based marque as it celebrates its 270 year anniversary. A sensitive reinterpretation of the 1977 original, this latest model features a deep blue dial, steel housing and an automatic movement, the Calibre 2455/2, hallmarked with the Poinçon de Genève.
Vacheron Constantin depuis 1755
Huguenots, French protestants, first settled in Geneva between 1540 and 1590. They followed the teachings of John Calvin, the French theologian who lived in Geneva, preaching religion while ruling the city with a rod of iron. A second wave of refugees, fleeing persecution from Catholic France, were given sanctuary in Geneva from 1680 to 1689.
Calvin issued an order forbidding the making of jewellery. Many Huguenots were craftspeople, hence they looked for a new outlet for their skills and began making watches. Indeed, Swiss watchmaking began in Geneva, born from the repurposing of outlawed artisanal skills.
The history of Vacheron Constantin is entwined with the city of Geneva. In 1755, Jean-Marc Vacheron recruited his first apprentice and in so doing gave birth to what is now reputedly ‘the world’s oldest watch Manufacture in continuous operation’. This year, the Maison celebrates its 270 year anniversary and is promising to wow horophiles with a series of breathtaking new releases, starting with the unveiling of the new Vacheron Constantin Historique 222 Steel.
Vacheron Constantin 222 – anniversary watch
Dates have always been important to the Swiss marque. Back in 1977, the company was celebrating its 222 year anniversary and it tasked a young German designer, Jorg Hysek, with creating a luxury sports watch with an integrated bracelet. Following both the Royal Oak and Nautilus, both of which were designed by Gérald Genta, the 222 tapped into the horological zeitgeist, fusing two genres, the dress and sports watch. However, in my opinion, while the 222 is often grouped with said models, it does appear more formal in appearance.
Very much a product of its time, the 222 was offered in different sizes with the largest reference presented in a ‘jumbo’ 37 mm case which back in 1977 was considered ‘large’. Most references featured circular bezels save for one model (Ref 46004/411) which embraced straight lines. Later, in 1996, the marque released the inaugural Overseas collection. These latter watches retained some of the 222 DNA but seemed more contemporary and aligned with prevailing tastes. The Overseas has been updated over the years and, in my opinion, it remains eminently desirable.
Vacheron Constantin Historique 222
At Watches & Wonders 2022, Vacheron Constantin blindsided the industry, press and watch collecting community by unveiling the Historique 222 in yellow gold. Measuring 37 mm in diameter, the noble case and bracelet exuded a notable sumptuousness, a characteristic that has never faded with familiarity.
Now, the Geneva-based Manufacture has released the Vacheron Constantin Historique 222 Steel. Sharing the same design, dimensions and movement as the yellow gold version, the family likeness is clear to see. The bezel is scalloped and rests on a circular plinth, while the main body of the case is tonneau-shaped and features a Maltese cross, the brand’s emblem, located in the south-easterly region of the case. In this instance, the emblem is executed in yellow gold, providing tonal contrast with the steel housing.
The dial of the Vacheron Constantin Historique 222 Steel is presented in a becoming cerulean hue and the integrated bracelet features a central row composed of wide hexagonal links. Throughout the composition, vertical satin brushed surfaces abound with soupçons of gleaming brightwork enlivening various edges.
Vacheron Constantin Calibre 2455/2
Again, like the 2022 release, the Historique 222 Steel is slender, measuring a mere 7.95 mm in height. This is a remarkable figure for an automatic watch, especially considering the movement is equipped with a full-size oscillating weight. The movement, the Calibre 2455/2, is beautifully finished and is ‘punched’ with the Poinçon de Genève, a prestigious hallmark, independently audited by TimeLab.
Ticking at 4Hz, the balance within the Historique 222 Steel beats with a higher cadence than its antecedent of 1977 which had a frequency of 2.75 Hz. By operating at 28,800 vph (4 Hz), the balance of this latest model will be less susceptible to shocks, hence delivering superior precision.
When appraising the movement at close quarters, the wearer is indulged with a mechanical vista par excellence. The movement is endowed with a 22-carat gold oscillating mass, adorned with a combination of frosting and gently arcing brushwork. The upper section of the rotor features a scalloped edge, serving to echo the exterior of the bezel, positioned front of house. Beyond the rotor, the purist is indulged with perlage, Côtes de Genève, anglage, mirror-polished screws, sinks and pins, golden engraved text and a black polished stud holder. Indeed, everything is refined to the nth degree.
Vacheron Constantin Historique 222 Steel – closing remarks
Part of the Manufacture’s paradigm is its desire to deliver choice. This is manifest with the company’s Les Cabinotiers models, bespoke timepieces capable of sating some of the most esoteric desires. Likewise, this philosophy can also be seen with the brand’s core collections such as the Overseas which comes in a vast array of colours, complications, case sizes, etc.
Back in 2022, the decision of the Maison to release the Vacheron Constantin Historique 222 was surprising. It was effectively a horological prequel to the Overseas, a popular model in its product portfolio. However, the decision to release the yellow gold variant proved to be very shrewd. The Historique 222 Yellow Gold has been warmly received without undermining the popularity of the Overseas. There is clearly wisdom in offering consumers choice.
With the Vacheron Constantin Historique 222 Steel, the Genevan firm has augmented choice further. By eschewing noble metal in favour of stainless steel, the Manufacture is able to deliver significant cost savings, something that is reflected in the retail price of this latest reference. However, setting aside the matter of price, I would still opt for the steel reference, preferring its understated charm, albeit I accept not everyone will share my opinion. But then again, with 270 years experience, this Maison recognises that not every client is the same, incentivising it to release new iterations of historical models. Based on the warm reception the Historique 222 Steel has already received, it looks like 2025 is going to be a memorable year for this historic Genevan company.
Further reading
https://www.vacheron-constantin.com/
Technical specifications
- Model: Vacheron Constantin Historique 222 Steel
- Reference: 4200H/222A-B934
- Case: stainless steel, diameter 37 mm, height 7.95 mm, water resistance 5 ATM (50 metres)sapphire crystal to front, exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes, date
- Movement: Calibre 2455/1, self-winding movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz), 27 jewels, power reserve 40 hours
- Strap: Integrated steel bracelet with triple folding clasp.
- Price: £30,800 (RRP as of 13.1.2025)