Panerai Luminor Chrono Flyback Luna Rossa PAM01654 and Luminor Luna Rossa PAM01653
The Panerai Luminor Chrono Flyback Luna Rossa PAM01654 and the Luminor Luna Rossa PAM01653 are the latest sailing-themed creations from the Italian-Swiss watch brand. Nina Scully begins by exploring Panerai’s history before examining the specification of each reference.
Image – Panerai Luminor Chrono Flyback Luna Rossa PAM01654
Panerai and Mare Nostrum
To have been in the Regia Marina during the 1940s, reading the skies, the seas and the subtle hum of the ship’s engine would have come as second nature, more like a sixth sense. Far from any reminders of home, days must have been long and hard and full of meticulous rituals. The bosun’s whistle would have signalled a day of cleaning, polishing and monotonous drills, all against a backdrop of chaotic oceans, beating waves and the threat of any unseen enemy submarines, amplified by a constant fear of the unknown.
For the Frogmen, having to navigate the murky depths of cold, unwelcoming (sometimes stormy) waters would have required some steely nerves, to say the least. It’s hard to imagine that a reliable wristwatch, in conjunction with a compass, could make all the difference in carrying out successful military missions when there were so many other variables to think about. But Royal Italian Navy personnel living life out at sea under the Italian flag took their role in protecting the ‘Mare Nostrum’ very seriously, and a watch like the Panerai Luminor seemed to be equally adept at standing to attention.
The watch earned its stripes as an essential tool for military operations during the 1950s, courtesy of its patented crown-protecting bridge, luminous dial markings and rugged, cushion-shaped case. All features combined, the Luminor took to marine life like a duck to water and has enjoyed a storied aquatic history ever since, one pursuit in particular being its engagement with the world of sailing.
Image – Panerai Luminor Luna Rossa PAM01653
Panerai’s sailing roots
Until 1993, Panerai watches, including the Radiomir (the predecessor to the Luminor), had been exclusively used by the military, with the Panerai Luminor satisfying the needs of sailors with its promise of legibility and robustness long before it became available to the general public. In 1950 (one year after the watchmaker patented the ‘Luminor’ trademark following the development of its tritium-based compound, a much safer alternative to Radium), the inaugural Luminor was released and has been a mainstay ever since.
Image – Panerai Luminor Luna Rossa PAM01653
The key difference between the Radiomir and the Luminor, aside from the luminous treatments employed (today, both model’s use Super-LumiNova), was the addition of a signature crown protection device (patented in 1955). It addressed the issue of a compromised winding crown which after repetitive screwing and unscrewing would often result in water ingress. Ever since then, the crown-protecting device on the Luminor has been one of its most important hallmarks, even in present-day models, such as the latest two releases celebrating the company’s ongoing partnership with Luna Rossa.
Image – Panerai Luminor Luna Rossa PAM01653
Panerai and Luna Rossa
Panerai has been active in the field of competitive sailing for several years, beginning with its purchase of Eilean back in 2006, a 22m ketch, and its involvement in the Panerai Classic Yachts Challenge. However, more notably, the company initiated a partnership with the Luna Rossa team in 2017, which resulted in several innovative models inspired by the team’s Prada Pirelli boats and their stealthy performance across the water’s surface, utilising underwater wings made from hydrofoils. Some notable models include the limited-edition Submersible QuarantaQuattro Luna Rossa PAM01391, released in 2022, and a trio of watches launched last year sporting a tourbillon with a GMT complication, a model crafted from the brand’s proprietary Ti-Ceramitech material and a titanium GMT.
This year, Luna Rossa is set to participate in the 38th America’s Cup in the city of Naples – an event first. It will be the racing team’s third consecutive America’s Cup with the support of Panerai behind its sails. To celebrate its fruitful partnership with the prominent Italian sailboat racing syndicate, Panerai has launched two new Luminor watches.
Panerai Luminor Chrono Flyback Luna Rossa PAM01654
Panerai has restricted the production of the Luminor Chrono Flyback Luna Rossa to just 150 pieces worldwide and has crafted this iteration from brushed titanium. It’s the lighter option of the two, weighing approximately 44% less than steel.
The chronograph features a push-piece for start/stop at 10 o’clock and a reset to zero at 8 o’clock, similar to a regular chronograph, save for the location of the pushers (see later). If the chronograph is running, the wearer merely needs to press the push-piece at 8 o’clock and the chronograph will halt, reset to zero and commence measuring a new event with just one effortless finger push. The start/stop pusher (10 o’clock) and flyback pusher (8 o’clock) are on the opposite side of the case to where you’d traditionally see them, creating more room for the crown protection guard at 3 o’clock.
The flyback chronograph function is made possible by Panerai’s in-house Calibre 9100, which features a vertical clutch and column wheel mechanism, conferring a smoother push-piece action and a welcome absence of hesitation after the chronograph is actuated. A twin barrel set-up, along with slimmer springs, affords an impressive 72 hours of power reserve, too. The movement can be admired through an exhibition caseback, while on the dial side, things are just as well-built.
The Panerai Luminor Flyback Chronograph Luna Rossa features a red central chronograph minute hand that works seamlessly in collaboration with the chronograph seconds hand (also in red), jumping forward every 60 seconds. The central hands and hour markers, however, have received a generous dose of Super-LumiNova® X1 for timekeeping after sunset.
Meanwhile, the sub-dials at 3 and 9 o’clock are set against a matte grey background and incorporate snailed decoration, granting additional interest. The 12-hour totaliser hand at 3 o’clock cooperates with the red theme that runs in bands across the push-pieces and through the black rubber and grey textile bi-material strap (fitted with a titanium buckle).
Panerai Luminor Luna Rossa PAM01653
Of course, being a time-only reference, the Panerai Luminor Luna Rossa PAM01653 has a much more pared-back dial. Nevertheless, it features the same grey sandwich dial, with luminous hour and minute hands, and bears the ‘Luna Rossa’ lettering above 6 o’clock. This is not so much a sportier alternative to the flyback chronograph but rather a more relaxed design, resuming the familiar 9 o’clock small seconds layout (with a Luna Rossa red hand) that is widely associated with the Luminor collection.
This Luna Rossa time-only watch is powered by the P.6000 Calibre, which beats at a rate of 21,600 vph (3 Hz). The movement has a three-day power reserve, something it shares in common with the previously mentioned Flyback.
Although not as lightweight as the titanium material used for the chronograph version, this new Luminor Luna Rossa watch is equally as impressive in terms of strength and corrosion resistance. The AISI 316LVM – 1.4441 stainless steel, chosen by Panerai experts for this case, undergoes a remelting process to enhance its purity. The alloy, comprising nickel, iron, and chromium, also gives the watch a highly attractive lustre, enabling it to stand out against standard steel models.
The PAM01653 features the same bi-material strap as its Flyback brother, along with the same 100-metre water resistance.
Closing Remarks
From textured sailcloth dials to all-black models, Panerai’s Luna Rossa series is becoming a lot more versatile than it once was. In the eight years that the watchmaker has been celebrating its special partnership with the sailing team, these new Luminor Luna Rossa models, PAM01654 and PAM01653, could quite possibly be the most wearable yet.
Less utilitarian than previous models but still reflecting the brand’s strong maritime identity, the subtle use of red in both models is just enough to tie into the Luna Rossa livery without making them too niche a purchase. As the successful collaboration continues, it will be interesting to see how future releases will engage with the Paneristi and sailing audiences alike, given that these models are incredibly well-engineered and arguably the most thoughtful evolutions thus far.
Further reading
Technical Specification: Panerai Luminor Flyback Chronograph Luna Rossa PAM01654
- Model: Panerai Luminor Flyback Chronograph Luna Rossa
- Reference: PAM01654
- Case: Brushed titanium, diameter 44 mm, water resistant to 10 bar (100 metres); sapphire crystal to front and exhibition caseback.
- Functions: Hours, minutes, chronograph flyback seconds, central chronograph minutes, 12-hour, running seconds
- Movement: Calibre P.910, self-winding, in-house, frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz), power reserve of approximately 72 hours.
- Strap: Black rubber and grey textile bi-material, Grade 2 titanium trapezoid buckle, additional black rubber strap
- Availability: Limited Edition of 150 pieces
- Price: £13,400
Technical Specification: Panerai Luminor Luna Rossa PAM01653
- Model: Luminor Luna Rossa
- Reference: PAM01653
- Case: Polished AISI 316LVM – 1.4441 stainless steel, diameter 44 mm, resistant to 10 bar (100 metres); sapphire crystal to front, closed caseback.
- Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds.
- Movement: Calibre P.6000, hand-winding movement, frequency 21,600 vph (3 Hz), power reserve of approximately 72 hours.
- Strap: Black rubber and grey textile bi-material, steel trapezoid buckle, additional black rubber strap
- Price: £5,700
