Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin 2025 Watch Review
Vacheron Constantin, the venerated Genevan Maison, has just released two new versions of the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin for 2025, expanding its portfolio of svelte QP-equipped references. The elegant sports model is now offered in a pink gold case with a matching golden-toned dial, as well as a more flamboyant execution in white gold with a burgundy lacquer dial. But despite such newness some things never change; both references bear the esteemed Poinçon de Genève and are finished to the Manufacture’s legendary no-compromise standards!
Vacheron Constantin Overseas depuis 1996
Back in the 1970s, the elegant sports watch was unquestionably en vogue with the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (1972), Girard-Perregaux Laureato (1975), IWC Ingenieur SL (1976) and Patek Philippe Nautilus (1976) all vying for the affections of well-heeled horophiles. The prerequisites for success appeared to be a steel case, an integrated bracelet and genteel looks befitting a lounge suit as well as casual wear. Vacheron Constantin, clearly aware of the zeitgeist of the 70s, unveiled the 222 in 1977. The model was ultimately discontinued in 1984.
In many ways the 222 was the precursor of the Overseas, which arrived in 1996. Like the aforementioned 70s creations, it was formed of steel and featured an integrated stainless steel bracelet. However, the brand also offered the model in gold, a material befitting a marque of VC’s esteemed standing. Over the years the styling of the Overseas subtly evolved but the family likeness always remained clear to see.
Image – Vacheron Constantin Historique 222 in steel reissued in January 2025
In 2016, the third and current generation Overseas models were released. Most notably, the Geneva-based firm unveiled an array of complications to seduce the mechanically curious watch aficionado. The potential ownership options include chronographs (column-wheel, of course), worldtimers, dual time models, tourbillons, self-winding three-handers, skeletons and various Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin models.
Incidentally, in 2022, Vacheron Constantin reissued the 222 in yellow gold and has since released a steel variant (January 2025). Both references now reside within the brand’s ‘Historique’ collection, while the Overseas is a discrete collection in its own right.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin since 2016
Looking more closely at the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin, the watch has always proffered much wrist presence courtesy of its 41.5 mm case diameter. The width of the case has afforded sufficient room for each indication to breathe, imparting meaning clearly. This is particularly important with a QP as the dial displays an abundance of information, including hours, minutes, perpetual calendar (date, day of the week, month, leap year) and, on this occasion, a moonphase indicator.
With its vast inventory of indications, it would be understandable to expect the watch to resemble a hockey puck; however, the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin, as its name implies, has a lithe torso. Indeed, measuring a mere 8.1 mm in height, the watch nuzzles the wrist, readily slipping beneath a cuff.
At the heart of the watch sits the Calibre 1120 QP/1, a self-winding movement comprising 276 components. It has the mechanical intellect to display the correct date, irrespective of whether a month contains 28, 29, 30 or 31 days. Moreover, the perpetual calendar even makes allowance for leap years. Assuming the watch is kept wound, it will only require adjustment in 2100, which is not a leap year in the Gregorian calendar. Incredibly complicated, yet remarkably slim, the Calibre 1120 QP/1 is an extraordinary feat of micro-engineering.
It may be superfluous to say, but everything is finished to a flawless conclusion without a trace of machining to be found. Moreover, each component is subject to the independent scrutiny of Timelab, the guardians of the Poinçon de Genève.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin 2023 – Overseas blue dial
In 2023, Vacheron Constantin released a pink gold version of the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin with a matching bracelet and featuring an ‘Overseas blue’ lacquered dial (Reference 4300V/120R-B509). I reviewed this watch at the time and discussed its specification in detail, including its svelte movement.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin 2025 – golden-toned dial
Now, the Swiss firm has unveiled two new variants, the first of which features a golden-toned dial (Reference 4300V/220R-H144) that shares much in common with the aforementioned Overseas blue dial model (Reference 4300V/120R-B509). The most notable difference is the dial which is formed of 18K 5N pink gold and suffused with a lustrous layer of golden-toned translucent lacquer. Despite the profusion of gold, the tone-on-tone configuration appears more understated than its older Overseas blue sibling.
The overriding perception is one of refinement. The central area of the dial is adorned with a sunburst motif, the flange encircling the dial is endowed with a velvet finish and the counters are snailed. Furthermore, rather than employ a one-size-fits-all approach to the moonphase disc installation, the Maison has ensured it perfectly matches the main dial epidermis.
Contrary to first impressions, this model is not purely a monochromatic composition. Indeed, look closely and you will discover the Arabic numerals gracing the flange are picked out in cornflower blue. Moreover, the counter at 12 o’clock incorporates a leap-year indicator, again executed in cornflower blue. These subtle details may sound insignificant but they contribute to the overall cohesion of the display.
- Price: £106,000 (RRP as of 26.8.2025)
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin 2025 – burgundy dial
The burgundy dial option (4300V/220G-H151) shares much in common with the golden-toned dial reference previously mentioned, including the said smatterings of blue detail, sunburst dial decoration, snailed counters and the velvet-finished flange. However, while this may sound all rather samey, nothing could be further from the truth.
The burgundy shade of red is far more flamboyant than the golden-toned dial, while remaining seemly and appropriate for a watch bearing the coveted Maltese-Cross logo. Rest assured, there is no hint of scarlet, neon red or candy apple, VC decorum precludes such options. The moonphase disc, once again, matches the dominant hue of the dialscape.
On this occasion, the case and bracelet are formed of 18-carat white gold, a noble metal that is known for speaking softly. In this instance, the white gold acts as a foil, allowing the burgundy vista to sing to its audience in full voice.
- Price: £106,000 (RRP as of 26.8.2025)
Closing remarks
Over its 270 year history, Vacheron Constantin has continuously recognised that consumers appreciate choice. This choice also extends to how the Overseas is secured to the wrist. The golden-toned model is supplied on a matching bracelet, but also comes with two additional rubber straps, one in dark blue and another in white. The bracelet/straps can be readily changed without the need tools. The burgundy dial reference is fitted with a white gold bracelet and comes with burgundy and white straps.
Ultimately, the new references may not be to everyone’s taste, but for some horophiles they may prove the perfect choice. And again, I come back to the word ‘choice’, the Maison has a rich history of satisfying individual needs and wants. If we consider the Overseas collection, Vacheron Constantin has produced models in different metals, offered with various dial colours and endowed watches with a variety of complications. Put simply, there are very few horological genres that the brand’s product planners have ignored. What would be your choice?