Zenith DEFY Skyline 36 Watch Review
First introduced in 2023, the Zenith DEFY Skyline 36 is known for its meritorious movements, intricately textured dials and architectural cases and bracelets. This year, Zenith has expanded the collection to include two new references, both blessed with a prepossessing silver-toned dial.
Zenith watches
In most cases, history celebrates the achievements of the loudest voice, creating fanfare that overshadows equally distinguished contributors. Consider the painters Lee Krasner and Jackson Pollock. Pollock became the mythic figure, the mad genius flinging paint across vast canvases. Krasner, a highly talented artist herself, was often relegated to the role of Pollock’s wife. Yet she helped shape the Abstract Expressionism movement and many critics regard her work as influential and powerful as her husband’s. It’s a good reminder to look behind the hype and often you’ll find an overlooked figure who’s equally compelling.
The same parallel can be seen in Zenith’s history. Back in 1969, the brand released the El Primero, the world’s first integrated automatic chronograph calibre beating at 36,000 vph (5 Hz) and capable of measuring time to 1/10 of a second. It came in what were to become two iconic variants: the A386 and A384. This milestone obviously created quite a stir in the horological universe. However, the El Primero wasn’t the only accomplishment that year, Zenith also debuted the DEFY series.
Zenith DEFY Series (1969)
The Zenith DEFY A3642 of 1969 was a rugged dive watch with an impressive water resistance of 300 m and a ‘coffre-fort’ design, which translates to a ‘safe-like’ design. The case was built to protect the Zenith Calibre 2552PC movement like a bank vault protects valuables. While the sharp facets of the thick 37 mm case and 14-sided bezel of the Zenith DEFY A3642 were stylistic, they also served a practical purpose, contributing to the rigidity of the watch.
Inside, a shock-absorbing ring buffered the movement, while multiple gaskets and a screw-down crown gave the A3642 deep diving capabilities. It also featured a semi-integrated ladder bracelet, produced by Gay Frères. This forward-thinking design arrived just a few years before fully integrated bracelets would redefine the luxury sports watch segment in the early 1970s.
Zenith DEFY Revival A3642 (2022)
In 2022, Zenith paid tribute to the original DEFY with the release of the DEFY Revival A3642, a faithful re-edition of the model from 1969, sporting a brown fumé dial. However, the Manufacture updated the movement to the Zenith Elite 670, an automatic calibre with date function and a 50-hour power reserve, visible through a sapphire crystal caseback.
Zenith DEFY Skyline collection (2022)
In addition to the re-edition, Zenith also introduced the DEFY Skyline collection, a modern reinterpretation of the DEFY design language for the 21st century. The idea was to root the watch in Zenith’s Le Locle heritage while taking inspiration from modern cities such as Milan. The architectural design of the DEFY Skyline synchronises various elements, bringing them together to form a cohesive whole.
Taking cues from the early DEFY models with their octagonal geometry, the DEFY Skyline debuted in a 41 mm stainless-steel case finished with brushed surfaces and polished chamfers, while the dial was decorated with Zenith’s signature star motif. The dial came in a choice of black, silver or deep blue. Instead of the 14-sided bezel of the 1969 model, the Skyline featured a 12-sided bezel and a sharper, more contemporary case profile. There was an aesthetic logic to the 12-sided bezel. Not only did it simplify into a more architectural look, it also aligned visually with the sunburst-patterned dial, incorporating Zenith’s four-pointed star.
The DEFY Skyline debuted with the El Primero 3620 calibre oscillating at 36,000 vph (5 Hz) with a 60-hour power reserve. You could see the high-beat dance on the 1/10th running seconds subdial at 9 o’clock, which made a full rotation every 10 seconds.
Zenith DEFY Skyline 36 – first introduced in 2023
The following year, Zenith introduced the DEFY Skyline 36, a watch tailored to smaller wrists with its 36 mm case. Released with a choice of dial hues, namely deep blue, ice-blue, pastel green or pastel pink, the Skyline 36 offered a slightly different design inside and out. First off, there was a new engine to fit into the smaller case. The automatic Elite 670 calibre with a 50-hour power reserve took over driving duties, which allowed for a sleeker profile. Visible through the exhibition case back, the movement was finished in a silver tone and featured an open star-shaped rotor to energise the mainspring when worn.
The dial retained the same motif, formed of numerous four-pointed stars. Likewise, the date display remained at 3 o’clock, but the running seconds positioned at 9 o’clock on the 41 mm was replaced with a central seconds. Rhodium-plated, facetted hands filled with luminous material sweep around matching hour markers, ensuring legibility in low-light conditions.
Zenith DEFT Skyline 36 – two additional references (2026)
Zenith now expands the offerings of the DEFY Skyline 36 with the addition of a silver-coloured dial. It comes with or without brilliant-cut diamonds circling the bezel of its 36 mm stainless steel case. With its screw-down crown, the Skyline 36 is water resistant to 100 metres, making the model an ideal companion whether your adventures are refined or take a more rugged turn. The watch comes with two strap options: a stainless steel bracelet with a folding clasp or a black rubber strap with a starry-sky pattern and a folding clasp. The two are easily swapped with Zenith’s quick-change system that operates at the push of a button.
Closing remarks
While there’s no mistaking the significance of Zenith’s El Primero achievement, the DEFY also earns its place in the brand’s history. Introduced in the same year, it boasted its own vision of durability and progressive architecture. More than 50 years later, the DEFY remains relevant as it’s evolved into a luxury sports watch for the modern era. Much like Lee Krasner, the DEFY Skyline reminds us that influence doesn’t have to arrive with a lot of commotion; it can appear quietly and endure just the same.
Further reading
https://www.zenith-watches.com/
Technical specifications
- Model: Zenith DEFY Skyline 36
- Reference: 03.9400.670/01.I001 (silver-toned dial)
- Reference: 16.9400.670/01.I001 (silver-toned dial with diamond-set bezel)
- Case: steel, diameter 36 mm, water resistance 10 ATM (100 metres), sapphire crystal to front, exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes, centre seconds, date
- Movement: Elite 670 automatic movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz), power reserve 50 hours
- Bracelet: stainless steel bracelet with folding clasp and black rubber strap with starry-sky pattern
- Price: silver-toned dial – £8,300 (RRP as of 19.3.2026)
- Price: silver-toned dial with diamond-set bezel – £11,500 (RRP as of 19.3.2026)