DOXA SUB 200 II Watch Review
DOXA has unveiled the SUB 200 II, a tastefully assertive 44 mm divers’ watch that masks its size with intelligent design. Crucially, the arrival of the marque’s inaugural fumé dials bestows an enchanting new layer of refinement, elevating a functional tool for underwater use to a remarkably handsome watch, ideally suited to daily wear.
Case dimensions – trends
Watch trends tend to swing back and forth, much like the mechanics ticking away inside them, forever in a state of oscillation. Not so long ago, the industry was enthralled with gargantuan watches. Some of these bold behemoths resembled flying saucers perched on the wrist, with an unfortunate tendency to catch shirt cuffs or, on occasion, make rather abrupt contact with doorframes. Nevertheless, collectors seemed to revel in the era of the oversized watch, with bold, wrist-dominating designs becoming the norm, from oversized chronographs to beefy dive watches, sometimes measuring 49 mm in diameter.
More recently, things have shifted. Smaller watches have come back into favour in a big way and brands are leaning into vintage-inspired designs once more, trimming case sizes down to 38 mm, 36 mm and even a rather restrained 34 mm. But this swift retreat towards smaller watches has created somewhat of a neglected demographic. If you happen to have been blessed with wrists of oak or, quite simply, favour a watch with more physical presence, you may have noticed that such pieces are now fewer in number. Still, there are some brands that continue to resist the tide, or at least refuse to be swept along by it entirely. This is where DOXA makes its presence felt with the new SUB 200 II, throwing forsaken lovers of the large watch a lifeline, though this time not in the brand’s signature bright orange execution but rather five 44 mm time and date divers’ watches with fumé dials. This new suite of subaquatic offerings comprises five colourways: black, blue, green, grey and ‘Redcoral’.
DOXA SUB 200 II – dial
Few brands have explored dial colour with the same purpose as DOXA. Since the late 1960s, the company has treated colour as a functional device. The now-iconic, high-visibility orange was originally developed to maximise readability underwater. This philosophy extended across the range, with bold yellows, deep navy blues and stark blacks all carefully selected to enhance contrast and readability in varying conditions. Over time, these colours became a defining part of DOXA’s identity, unapologetically utilitarian and rooted in real-world performance. With the introduction of the SUB 200 II, however, there is a noticeable evolution to DOXA’s approach.
One of the first things to note about the dial is that it adopts the same typography found on the smaller SUB 200 models in the brand’s current range. The modern applied indices are generously proportioned, while the signature baton hands play a key role in the dial’s highly legible design, just as before. Both are filled with aged Super-LumiNova, imparting a warm, retro-inspired glow. In a first for the dive watch specialist, however, it is the introduction of a fumé dial that marks the change, now enhanced by a resplendent sunray finish that creates a captivating play of shade and depth, revealing itself gradually rather than all at once. The black, blue, grey, green and red dials subtly shift in tone before deepening towards the edges, while the date display, neatly framed at 3 o’clock, employs black numerals set atop a crisp white disc.
While legibility remains fully intact, the introduction of fumé dials and nuanced finishing imbues the new SUB 200 II with a more refined, sophisticated appearance. This aesthetic shift suggests that DOXA is no longer fixated purely on utility but is now equally committed to wooing those in favour of urban elegance.
DOXA SUB 200 II – case
The DOXA SUB 200 II cuts a wonderfully striking silhouette once strapped to the wrist with its 44 mm stainless steel housing. Yet, before those of more slender-wristed persuasion hastily dismiss these generous dimensions, allow me to proffer some reassurance. The perceived heft of the case is mitigated by a remarkably contained 48 mm lug-to-lug span. By combining these proportions with a slimmer profile of just 12.8 mm, DOXA has engineered a dive watch that ergonomically hugs the wrist.
The mid-case itself presents a judicious interplay of brushed and polished surfaces, carefully elevating the timepiece from a standard tool-like diving instrument to an object of considered luxury. I’m particularly drawn to the elegant retro-style twisted lyre lugs which flow gracefully towards the strap/bracelet. The SUB 200 II is fitted with a dome-shaped sapphire crystal. This is framed nicely by a unidirectional rotating bezel that DOXA equips with a delightfully tactile, grippy edge, proving an absolute joy to manipulate. Its circular-brushed aluminium insert is tastefully filled with a chosen dial-matching hue, granting a cohesive aesthetic.
Being a true aquatic tool, the case is equipped with a sturdy screw-down crown along with a solid screwed steel caseback, bestowing the SUB 200 II with a reassuring 200-metre water resistance. Furthermore, it would be remiss of me not to mention the Redcoral iteration which is housed in a case cloaked in a stealthy black DLC treatment with a matching black bezel insert. These latter details transform the appearance, making it appear slightly more aggressive.
DOXA has paired each model with a vintage-inspired Milanese stainless steel bracelet, save for the Redcoral variant which receives a stealthy, colour-matched black DLC finish. Should a more supple alternative be preferred, the watches can be specified on a colour-coordinating rubber strap paired with a pin buckle.
DOXA SUB 200 II – movement
Rather than pursuing unnecessary complexity, DOXA has sensibly entrusted the timekeeping to a robust Swiss calibre, the Sellita SW200. This movement is widely used within the watch industry, prized for its reliability and ease of servicing.
The balance within this self-winding movement has a cadence of 28,800 vph (4 Hz), a frequency that will be less susceptible to shocks than 2.5 Hz or 3 Hz calibres, making it ideal for a sports watch. While its 38-hour power reserve lacks the headline-grabbing figures of some watches, it is more than sufficient for regular daily use. Upholding divers’ watch convention, the movement resides beneath a solid steel caseback, reminding us that this is an engine built for duty rather than display.
Closing thoughts
As the wider horological sphere appears increasingly preoccupied with the pursuit of ever-diminishing case dimensions, DOXA, by contrast, takes a more assured stance. It proudly places the new SUB 200 II alongside its equally large stablemates, namely the SUB 750T Clive Cussler edition and the SUB 200 C-GRAPH. Yet, one need not fret. The brand has navigated this generous footprint with absolute aplomb, pairing a slim mid-case with a modest lug-to-lug span, ensuring the proportions don’t tip into excess. In truth, however, it is the arrival of the magnificent fumé dials that grants each horological canvas with beguiling depths. For decades, the manufacturer has been intrinsically linked with bold, utilitarian hues. Now, the marque treats collectors to a wonderfully nuanced palette, a welcome evolution for those who have long yearned to see the brand expand its visual vocabulary.
Further reading
Technical specification
- Model: DOXA SUB 200 II
- Case: stainless steel, dimensions 44 mm x 48 mm, height 12.80 mm, water resistance 20 ATM (200 metres), sapphire crystal to front and solid case back
- Functions: hours, minutes, central sweep seconds, date
- Movement: Swiss Sellita automatic movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz), power reserve 38 hours
- Price: Redcoral with DLC-coated stainless steel bracelet – £1,590.00 (RRP as of 28.4.2026)
- Price: Redcoral with rubber strap – £1,490.00 (RRP as of 28.4.2026)
- Price: Other variants (black, blue, green and grey) with stainless steel bracelet – £1,450.00 (RRP as of 28.4.2026)
- Price: Other variants (black, blue, green and grey) with rubber strap – £1,390.00 (RRP as of 28.4.2026)