Urban Jürgensen Reference 10 Perpetual Calendar
Angus Davies absorbs each nuance and the all encompassing majesty of the Urban Jürgensen Reference 10 Perpetual Calendar in 18K Rose Gold. This is a timepiece destined to outlive its owner, courtesy of its no-compromise creation and the fastidious craftsmanship employed in its manufacture.
This detailed review of the Urban Jürgensen Reference 10 Perpetual Calendar includes live images, specification details and pricing.
Last night I looked at the screen of my mobile phone and the display had turned black. Eventually, with repeated turning on and off, the phone coughed back into life. I am now left pondering whether my cellphone will last as long as the airtime contract I have signed up to.
A few days ago, a new washer dryer was delivered to my home. I can’t recall how many times I have purchased replacement machines throughout my married life, but I am certain there are insufficient fingers on one hand to count all of them.
My point is, that in today’s so-called environmentally conscious world, many modern-day products are ‘lifed’, destined to fail at some predetermined point. Many electronic and domestic appliances will end their lives in refuse tips. Some parts may be recycled, whilst other components will be buried beneath the epidermis of our planet, hidden from view, but polluting the earth we all share.
Whilst huge advances have been made in consuming the earth’s resources more responsibly and greater emphasis is now being placed on recycling, I still believe a prudent approach to environmentalism should always pay due consideration to the longevity of products. Ironically, it is when we look at the finest timepieces of the past that we see an innate immortality to their specification. They were made with the intention of providing not only a lifetime of service, but conferring amenity for future generations.
For a moment, ponder the intrinsic obsolescence of computers, cellphones or so-called ‘smart watches’. These will be tomorrow’s fodder for the waste recycling industry and, sadly, in some cases, will terminate their lives as landfill.
Recently, I had the pleasure of placing an Urban Jürgensen Reference 10 Perpetual Calendar upon my wrist. This watch harnesses exceptional craftsmanship and is the very antithesis of the aforementioned ‘disposable culture’; the regrettable and unfortunate scourge of today’s society.
The methods employed in creating an Urban Jürgensen have changed little since the company’s foundation in the latter part of the 18th century. The specification of each model is the protracted result of careful consideration and patient execution. With an Urban Jürgensen timepiece there is a distinct absence of expedience during the distilled creation of its handsome form. These are watches for the cognoscenti who value the intrinsic qualities proffered, palpable with each scrutinising stare and extended circumspect finger.
The dial
The silvery tones of the guilloché dial prove captivating to behold. Each applied pattern delightfully dances coquettishly with light and shade, seducing the eyes with incredible beauty.
Other brands offer guilloché dials, but the approach by Urban Jürgensen is virtually unique in today’s watch industry. A solid disc of silver is subject to the skilful attention of the guillocheur and deft application of a hand operated rose engine lathe. One guillocheur executes one dial over a two day period with consistency being of paramount importance. Indeed, the time-served master craftsman has to consider varying factors which could ultimately influence the outcome, including the prevailing humidity whilst the dial is being engraved.
Hand operated rose engine lathes are no longer made, hence those machines in existence are cherished. Many of these machines are over 100 years old and the role of any guillocheur is to maintain his machine, carefully ensuring it performs to its optimum. Moreover, the guillocheur will acquire an empathy for their own machine, learning its idiosyncrasies and developing techniques to work around its innate foibles.
Some brands choose to use a softer gold disc and thereafter silver plate the surface. The material proves simpler to manipulate by taking this approach. However, the word ‘simpler’ seems absent from the lexicon employed at Urban Jürgensen. This company uses a solid silver disc for its dials and embraces the challenges this presents.
Each motif is applied to one disc, again proving more challenging to execute. A simpler method is to engrave various motifs on different discs and then solder the contrasting elements together in a ‘sandwich’ style construction method. It is less time consuming to adopt this method, but patience prevails at Urban Jürgensen. Furthermore, by applying the various motifs to one disc, the stakes are higher with one absent-minded slip of the rose-engine cutter possibly resulting in hours of work being rendered to the recycling container. There is no margin for error when employing this method and no room for a moment of complacency.
The dial of the Urban Jürgensen Reference 10 Perpetual Calendar features a gorgeous sea of pristine barleycorn motif, surrounded with satiné circulaire on the hour circle, framed either side with sauté piqué pattern, according neat delineation.
The diamond-finished, thermally blued hour and minute hands require significant time to create. Numerous stages, all performed by hand, are required to achieve the matchless result. The eye of the hour hand is fitted with a solid gold insert, held in position purely by the precision of its exacting fit.
Below noon, a moon-phase indication resides. However, this transcends the acceptable and redefines the complication with its no-compromise creation. A steel disc, repeatedly polished to a mirror-like finish, is subsequently subject to thermal bluing. Thereafter, recesses for the stars are filled with gold dust and heated. Each resultant star exhibits an alluring depth, some appearing flush with the nocturnal sky, with others adopting a concave appearance. Another period of protracted polishing ensues before two golden moons are inserted into the disc, completing the romantic depiction of the sky at night. Many hours are required in order to achieve the peerless, completed appearance but, in my opinion, the efforts are justified.
In the lower portion of the dial, adjacent 6 o’clock, a circular date indication and a small seconds display reside. They incorporate a contrasting basket-weave guilloché pattern which is also repeated beneath the aperture of the moon phase indicator.
Completing the inventory of functions, a month and day display are located at 3 and 9 o’clock, respectively.
Urban Jürgensen has expertly harnessed beauty and functionality in one, harmonious composition. No elements conflict or distract the wearer and the dial proves highly legible.
The case
The Urban Jürgensen Reference 10 Perpetual Calendar is offered in a choice of platinum, 18-carat yellow, rose or white gold. I have worn the rose gold variant and can report its 40mm case accords a highly agreeable fit. The scale of the case seems destined to retain relevance for eons, untouched by the fickleness of fashion.
The caseband is stepped and employs sensuous curves. The design of the case, once again, toys with ambient light, casting pocket-like shadows adjacent sections of gleaming gold.
‘Refinement’ is a word which readily rolls off the tongue when describing the Urban Jürgensen Reference 10 Perpetual Calendar. The tear-shaped lugs are seamlessly soldered to the case, with no evidence of joins visible. The formation, polishing and fitment of the lugs proves far more time consuming than the simple one piece stamping operation typical of mass produced watches and, yet again, further distinguishes this specialist high-end maison from the majority of companies. The arcing lines of the lugs taper downwards, guiding the alligator strap to encircle the wrist in comfortable union.
The dorsal flank of the case is equipped with a sapphire crystal, revealing an impressive view of the self-winding movement within.
The movement
Throughout its history, Urban Jürgensen has made its own movements as well as using existing calibres from other companies and reworking them to glorious effect. In this instance, the Reference 10 uses a Caliber FP 1160.
The self-winding movement is equipped with twin barrels delivering a power reserve of 48 hours. The balance has a frequency of 28,800 vph (4Hz) and the movement features 31 jewels.
Gracing the caseband, neat, perpetual correctors discreetly await the input of the wearer when required.
Perhaps one of the most beautiful aspects of this watch is the exquisite 21-carat gold oscillating mass, adorned with the brand’s logo and a sumptuous guilloché pattern. Few watches can usurp the captivating horological landscape imparted with this latter detail.
Closing remarks
A perpetual calendar, by its very nature, requires little user-input, necessitating a manual date change only once every one hundred years. The complication is typically found only on the most esoteric of timepieces, catering for the precise needs of a discerning few. In many respects, this complication acts like a metaphor for the lasting appeal such ownership should accord.
Urban Jürgensen exhibits a restrained demeanour in everything it does, from the products it makes to the communication it employs when interacting with the public at large. This is not a company which boasts or proclaims its talents. Instead, it chooses merely to impart its methods, letting those of discriminating temperament decide whether to engage with its watches.
Clearly, some watches are similar to modern-day consumer goods, having a limited shelf-life and becoming passé or irrelevant in years to come. However, no such fate is likely to afflict the Urban Jürgensen Reference 10 Perpetual Calendar. Its drawn out method of production is not a function of inefficiency but the desire of its owners to create an exceptional watch of world renown, upholding the legacy of the eponymous founder and producing a timepiece proffering immortality with its incredible specification.
Technical Specification
- Model: Urban Jürgensen Reference 10 Perpetual Calendar in 18K Rose Gold
- Case: 18-carat rose gold; diameter 40.00 mm; height 11.00mm; water resistant to 3 bar (30 metres); sapphire crystal to front and caseback.
- Functions: Hours; minutes; small seconds; day; date; month; moon-phase indication; perpetual calendar.
- Movement: Caliber FP 1160, self-winding movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz); 31 jewels; power reserve 42 hours.
- Strap: Brown alligator leather strap, presented on an 18-carat rose gold pin buckle.
- Price: Gold versions = CHF 76,000 (excluding taxes); Platinum version = CHF 91,200 (excluding taxes)
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