NOMOS Club 38 and Club 38 ruthenium Watch Review
NOMOS Club 38 and Club 38 ruthenium are the latest creations to emerge from the Saxony-based brand. Complementing its existing 36 mm references, the new models provide wrist-presence, Bauhaus design, value for money and an introduction to the world of NOMOS. But most of all, the hand-wound NOMOS Caliber DUW 4001 invites the wearer to spend a few moments every other day interacting with the mechanical movement and energising the mainspring.
Watches – automatic or hand-wound
Crawling along London’s North Circular on a Friday evening, suffering the tedium of rush hour, is not to be recommended. Brake, clutch, downshift, slow, accelerate and repeat – this is the reality for legions of workers trying to get home after a day toiling in the office. Selecting a car with an automatic gearbox mitigates the pain of stop-start driving, proving a logical choice for many weary travellers.
However, imagine sitting behind the wheel of a classic roadster, the air rushing through your hair, a series of switchbacks up ahead. Suddenly, a manual gearbox is the go-to choice. Shifting through the gears, skilfully employing heel-and-toe and clipping apexes is the stuff of dreams. The gear lever and clutch provide a physical connection with the car’s mechanical components. Drivers will often use words such as ‘feel’, ‘control’ and ’emotion’ when talking about the joy of piloting one of these mechanical thoroughbreds through a series of bends and belting down straights.
For horophiles, the choice is the same: manual or automatic. In 1992, NOMOS Glashütte released its inaugural watches: Ludwig, Orion, Tetra and Tangente. All four models were equipped with a hand-wound movement. In 2005, the German marque released its first automatic model, the Tangomat. Now, the Saxon-based firm has 13 in-house movements, both hand-wound and automatic, as well as its own ‘swing system’ (a term that describes the firm’s escapement and regulating organ). Irrespective of whether the watch obsessive craves a manual or automatic timepiece, NOMOS has it covered.
Recently, the brand unveiled the hand-wound Club in a new larger 38.5 mm size. Named NOMOS Club 38 (a much snappier title than Club 38.5 mm), it features a white silver-plated dial and the brand’s hand-wound NOMOS caliber DUW 4001. Alternatively, crown-twisters can opt for Club 38 ruthenium, essentially the same watch save for its dial, which is dressed in a dark, sensuous shade of near-black. The absence of an oscillating mass and associated automatic train makes these models comparatively ‘affordable’.
NOMOS – democratic luxury
The term ‘affordable’ seems incompatible with the notion of fine watchmaking; however, that’s what NOMOS has consistently delivered since it presented its first collection in 1992, carving out its own distinctive niche, labelled ‘democratic luxury’. Its approach is a departure from the usual ‘craftsmanship = expensive’ model and unites ‘in-house movements’ with ‘Bauhaus minimalism’; an ethos that is once again manifest in these latest hand-wound Club references.
NOMOS Club 38 and Club 38 ruthenium – dial
When analysing the purchasing behaviour of watch buyers, there is no such thing as ‘the typical consumer’. On the contrary, purchasers are a diverse bunch. Some crave mechanical complexity, selecting watches brimming with complications. Conversely, there are a significant number of timepiece addicts who crave straightforward dials with few indications that display the time succinctly, free of fluff. If you belong to this latter group, then NOMOS Club 38 may be your ideal watch.
Baton-style hour and minute hands, lined with Super-LumiNova, circle the dial. The hours are denoted with a combination of Arabic numerals for even values and rectangular indexes for odd values. Close examination of the hour markers reveals they have a cambered profile, are luminescent and are outlined in a contrasting hue.
A neat minute track hugs the outer edge of the dial, combining crisp strokes with Arabic numerals arranged at 5-minute intervals. A small seconds dial, positioned at 6 o’clock, is endowed with snailed detail and, in common with the minute track, employs fine lines and numerals to impart meaning.
Every aspect of the dial is optimally placed, designed to be clear and functional. Indeed, by adhering to a minimalistic approach, every line, colour and texture employed contributes to the overall design – nothing is superfluous; everything is intentional. The design of the dial is rooted in both Bauhaus and Deutscher Werkbund.
Bauhaus dates back to 1919 and is synonymous with ‘form follows function’, ‘truth to materials’ and ‘geometric simplicity’. The Deutscher Werkbund was founded in Munich in 1907. It brought together architects, artists, designers and industrialists with the aim of making mass-produced goods, imbued with traditional crafts that celebrate their German origins. By standardising products, both quality and robustness could be delivered at accessible prices, democratising luxury.
NOMOS Club 38 and Club 38 ruthenium – case
The classic hand-wound Club measures 36 mm in diameter, a popular size that has won many hearts. However, for those of us with larger wrists, the new 38.5 mm case may prove a better option. As a proud owner of a NOMOS Club Sport (both my wife and daughter also own NOMOS models), I can attest that the watches tend to ‘wear larger’ than the stated dimensions would suggest. Unless your wrist resembles a Canadian Redwood, the 38.5 mm with a lug-to-lug distance of 46.7 mm should prove ideal.
A characteristic of NOMOS watches is that they are comparatively slender without appearing waif-like. NOMOS Club 38 has a thickness of 8.4 mm, conferring an elegant mien. A factor that contributes to the model’s flat stomach is undoubtedly DUW 4001 caliber within. By eschewing an oscillating mass, the hand-wound movement measures a mere 2.6 mm in height (I will return to the movement shortly).
The case of the watch is highly polished throughout, yet does not look gaudy. Prospective purchasers can specify their NOMOS with a solid caseback or, for a small premium, select an exhibition caseback. Personally, I would always favour the latter option in order to admire the beautiful movement within.
Brand devotees will be familiar with the German marque’s sublime straps, which are made of ‘Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan’ – a type of leather that has a seemly sheen. In this instance, Club 38 is paired with a brown strap with red stitching, whereas Club 38 ruthenium comes presented on black leather with brown stitching. Both variants are also available with a metal bracelet, ideal for those individuals who like to wear a watch in the gym.
NOMOS caliber DUW 4001
DUW 4001 caliber is crafted in the German brand’s Manufactory located in Glashütte. As I mentioned earlier, an exhibition caseback is recommended. The dorsal glazing allows curious eyes to see the balance wheel (part of the NOMOS swing system) oscillate to and fro, with the blue balance spring at its centre pulsing with life. For newbies to fine watchmaking, this is one of the charming aspects of owning a mechanical watch.
Despite NOMOS Club 38 being a comparatively affordable watch, it does not lack refinement. Indeed, the three-quarter plate and balance cock are adorned with Glashütte ribbing, the ratchet and crown wheels are decorated with Glashütte sunburst, perlage graces the mainplate and tempered screws dot the movement with soupçons of cornflower blue.
Courtesy of the stop-seconds mechanism, the wearer can pull out the crown, halt the balance and synchronise the watch with a reference clock.
Closing remarks
In my opinion, the joy of owning a hand-wound watch is the intimate interaction you experience each day. The watch provides a legitimate reason to pause for a few seconds and connect with the movement. Winding the crown causes the crown wheel to turn the ratchet wheel, tensioning the mainspring, providing the necessary energy to make the watch run. The fingers feel a degree of resistance and the ‘click’ prevents the ratchet wheel from reversing, as well as providing a lovely soundtrack. It is the tactile experience of winding the watch with the accompanying click, click, click – that makes a hand-wound watch a sensory delight.
As I mentioned earlier, NOMOS watches are very popular in the Davies household. Beyond the quality of the firm’s products, the ageless styling sidesteps obsolescence, promising enduring eye appeal. Furthermore, the clean looks and lack of distracting fussiness make reading the time effortless. Quite simply, you can’t go wrong with a NOMOS.
Since releasing its inaugural models in 1992, NOMOS has produced a plethora of hand-wound classics in a variety of styles and sizes. The brand provides choice, while embracing standardisation, subscribing to the ethos of Deutsche Werkbund. Today, NOMOS offers in-house automatic movements, but continues to offer hand-wound calibres, mindful that they provide an affordable introduction to mechanical watches.
While NOMOS Club 38 and its sibling, Club 38 ruthenium, represent value for money, they do not lack refinement. By eschewing the oscillating mass and associated train found on an automatic movement, these new hand-wound models provide the perfect introduction to NOMOS ownership.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: NOMOS Club 38
- Reference: white silver-plated dial (Ref 769.GB) – sapphire crystal back
- Reference: white silver-plated dial (Ref 769) – stainless steel back
- Reference: ruthenium (Ref 770.GB) – sapphire crystal back
- Reference: ruthenium (Ref 770) – stainless steel back
- Case: stainless steel, diameter 38.5 mm, height 8.4 mm with a stainless steel back / 8.5 mm with a sapphire crystal back, water resistance 10 ATM (100 metres), sapphire crystal.
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, stop seconds function
- Movement: Caliber DUW 4001, manual movement, 17 jewels; power reserve up to 53 hours
- Price: 769.GB – Horween Shell Cordovan strap – £1,740 (769 – stainless steel back £1,520 RRP as of 29.10.2026)
- Price: 769.GB – sport bracelet – £2,020 (769 – stainless steel back £1,800 RRP as of 29.10.2026)
- Price: 770.GB – Horween Shell Cordovan strap – £1,780 (770 – stainless steel back £1,560 RRP as of 29.10.2026)
- Price: 770.GB – sport bracelet – £2,060 (770 – stainless steel back £1,840 RRP as of 29.10.2026)
Images – copyright: NOMOS Glashütte