Ulysse Nardin Diver Le Locle
Angus Davies gets hands-on with the Ulysse Nardin Diver Le Locle.
This detailed review of the Ulysse Nardin Diver Le Locle includes live pictures, specification and pricing.
I adore divers’ watches. They possess a high degree of robustness and confer superb readability. However, some divers’ watches can resemble a middle-aged man sporting a large belly. Quite simply, they appear to be the product of excessive consumption. The problem with horological girth is that it can prove cumbersome and unduly impose its will upon the wrist.
The Ulysse Nardin Diver Le Locle is a comparatively svelte diver’s watch, measuring a mere 42.2mm in diameter. Its styling is inspired by a 1964 model from the maison, but its movement embraces modernity courtesy of its silicium components.
Eager to explore this subaquatic lean machine, I borrowed a press loan from Ulysse Nardin and enjoyed a few days of hands-on evaluation.
The dial
The vintage styling blends black and beige tones to comely effect. The hands are plump, lined with luminescent fill and emit a green hue in dim light. The hours at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock are denoted with batons of varying length. The intervening hours are indicated with bold circlets, proving highly legible in both bright and dim conditions.
An aperture at 3 o’clock reveals the date. The black text on a creamy disc proves highly legible while evincing an aged appearance similar to a sepia photograph. A magnified lens, positioned on the underside of the sapphire crystal, enlarges the date wonderfully and proves helpful to myopically impaired wearers.
Located above 6 o’clock, a tiny recessed subdial plays host to a small seconds display. The word ‘automatic’ is proudly proclaimed, reminding the wearer that this watch proffers the convenience of a self-winding movement.
The curved sapphire crystal appears to magnify the dial details and augments visual interest.
The case
As previously stated, the Diver Le Locle measures a mere 42.2mm in diameter. Its slender profile lends the watch a universal suitability for a myriad of wrist sizes.
The lugs are intricately formed, sloping inwards towards the sailcloth strap. They are elongated and lissom, granting the case a notable degree of elegance.
All surfaces of the case are highly polished but, owing to the understated design language, nothing appears showy or unduly flamboyant.
The bezel is black, fluted and unidirectional. The crown is neat but proves simple to manipulate. The Ulysse Nardin anchor logo graces the vertical flank of the crown, providing a fitting reminder of the maison’s aquatic credentials.
Adorning the rear of the case is a depiction of a diver with harpoon in hand and bubbles emanating from a set of oxygen tanks. Six screws hold the case-back in position.
The maximum water resistance is 100 metres, making the Diver Le Locle unsuitable for ‘professional’ use. This explains how the timepiece is diminutively proportioned. If deep sea capabilities are required then Ulysse Nardin has other options available. However, most prospective purchasers select a diver’s watch for its aesthetic appearance and, in this regard, the Diver Le Locle proves most desirable.
The movement
The caliber UN-320 is a manufacture movement featuring a cutting-edge silicium escapement and hairspring. The self winding movement has a power reserve of 48 hours.
Owing to the solid caseback no critique of the movement finishing was possible.
Closing remarks
The Ulysse Nardin Diver Le Locle is a beautiful timepiece. The black and cream dial detail confer a gorgeous aesthetic and grant ease of read-off. The black, fluted bezel rotates with a positive action and elevates the attractiveness of the watch. Cream coloured indices and hand treatment deliver an aged appearance, reinforcing the vintage persona of the watch.
At no stage does the pursuit of retro aesthetics come at the expense of the practicality. This timepiece proves easy to live with courtesy of its highly lucid display.
The scale of the watch makes it suitable for a broad cross-section of would-be wearers. The svelte torso of the Diver Le Locle means the watch doesn’t protrude far beyond the wrist plane. Moreover, the modest diameter of the watch sidesteps the bulky dimensions of many professional divers’ watches.
Where the Diver Le Locle struggles is with its modest maximum water resistance of 100 metres. This prevents the watch being used for deep-sea exploration, however, the brand does offer watches with significantly greater water resistance.
Personally, I prefer the svelte profile of the Diver Le Locle and, like many watch buyers, view aesthetics as more important than deep sea capabilities. Ultimately, it boils down to how you like your diver’s watch. Do you prefer a watch which can hold its breath for longer or a timepiece that is blessed with a chiselled torso? Personally, I prefer the latter.
Further information
https://www.ulysse-nardin.com/
Technical specification
- Model: Ulysse Nardin Diver Le Locle
- Case: Stainless steel; diameter 42.2 mm; sapphire crystal to front and solid case-back; water resistant to 10 Bar (100 metres)
- Functions: Hours; minutes; small seconds; date.
- Movement: Caliber UN-320; Self-winding movement; power reserve 48 hours
- Strap: Black sailcloth strap with pin buckle
- Price: CHF 9,600 (RRP as at 8.10.2017)