Claude Meylan Tortue 6090 C Watch Review
The Claude Meylan Tortue 6090 C is a skeleton watch, delivered in a ‘turtle’ case and endowed with a micro-rotor. Several components to the front of the watch are embellished with Côtes de Genève decoration.
Watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux
Each year, with the advent of spring, the inhabitants of the Vallée de Joux must sigh with relief, grateful that the harsh winter months have come to an end for another year. During December and January, the verdant land is clad in deep snow and the cold temperatures ferociously scythe through clothing. This is not a place for the faint-hearted.
In the 18th and 19th century, residents of the Vallée de Joux, especially farmers, would hibernate in their hillside homes owing to the inclement wintry weather. They would expend much time crafting pocket watch movements. When the milder weather arrived, the movements would often be taken to Geneva and sold to établisseurs who would finish them, case them up and sell them as branded watches.
Over the years, the Vallée de Joux became known for making complicated movements such as minute repeaters. Moreover, some entrepreneurial locals subsequently established their own watch firms. Today, several high-end Maisons are based within the region. In addition, some of Geneva’s elite watch companies have chosen to establish specialist facilities in the area, harnessing the skills of the local workforce.
Claude Meylan Watch
The eponymous brand, Claude Meylan, is based in the small village of L’Abbaye in the Vallée de Joux. Interestingly, the names Audemars, Piguet, Golay and Meylan prevail within the region and have become synonymous with watchmaking.
Unlike some of its well-known neighbours, Claude Meylan is not a Manufacture. It chooses to use off-the peg movements, stripping them down, remodelling some of the components or swapping them for alternative parts. Thereafter, the company finishes these components to an impressive standard and incorporates them within one its own distinctive designs. Skeleton timepieces have become a speciality of this small Maison, allowing the wearer to see filigreed wheels, exposed springs and a plethora of other components normally hidden from view.
The Claude Meylan Tortue 6090 C upholds the Swiss firm’s predilection for openworked watches. Its name means ‘turtle’, a reference to the shape of the case, while the suffix ‘C’ after the model reference relates to the Côtes de Genève dial decoration. Its styling does not subscribe to the mainstream, but instead encompasses a highly imaginative design language, deserving of editorial comment.
Openworked watch
The raison d’être of an openworked watch is to remove extraneous material in order to create visual lightness. This type of watch confers sight of numerous movement components at play and sometimes grants front to rear views through the watch. The resultant mien can prove spectacular. However, the process of openworking a watch necessitates much expertise. Consideration has to be given to the forces acting on components and whether the removal of material will adversely affect the structural rigidity of the movement. Typically those areas near the jewel beds, screws and adjacent the gear wheels are normally left untouched.
Claude Meylan Tortue 6090 C – front
Dauphine hour and minutes proclaim the prevailing time on a small off-centre circular dial. In addition, the said dial also includes a lithe seconds hand, sharing the same axis. Large, openworked Roman numerals denote the hours. In some instances, they are positioned remotely from the circular dial and, therefore, their functional value has to be questioned. However, the profile of the hour track, hugging the contours of the case wall, does enrich the overall appearance of the watch.
At the heart of the Claude Meylan Tortue 6090 C is an ETA 2671 movement. Usually, this movement is equipped with a full size oscillating weight, however, Claude Meylan has discarded this item, choosing to use a micro-rotor in preference. The micro-rotor is positioned above 6 o’clock and it is attractively embellished with bouchonné decoration. The brand’s nomen and place of origin are depicted in black text on the inner surface of the sapphire crystal.
This watch wonderfully showcases an array of parts, all collaborating in harmonious union. A curved cock is positioned at 10 o’clock, holding the balance wheel in position. A jewelled shock-absorber provides a smattering of colour above a pulsing hairspring.
Above the balance, a further bridge supports the fourth wheel and escape wheel. Eagle-eyed observers will also notice the pallet lever engaging with the escape wheel, repeatedly nodding in agreement.
Parts of the automatic train are visible just below the previously mentioned dial. This watch has few secrets, its inner thoughts are openly shared.
The circular off-centre dial is part of a large bridge, retained with two gleaming dial-side screws. This bridge and the hour track are adorned with Côtes de Genève rayonnantes. The Swiss brand does offer alternative finishes, however, the radiant lines prove particularly attractive.
Claude Meylan Tortue 6090 C – rear
When viewing the rear of the Claude Meylan Tortue 6090 C via its exhibition caseback, one is indulged with the sight of more components. A small section of the winding shaft is exposed as well as the winding pinion, click, ratchet wheel, barrel and train. Should the wearer choose to spend a few moments appraising the anatomy of this movement, they will soon understand its mechanical manoeuvres.
The movement lacks any notable finishing. While I am sure Claude Meylan has sufficient in-house expertise, or can source the necessary skills locally, to imbue this watch with a sublime finish, it must be remembered that it is modestly priced at CHF 4850. Considering the watch Tortue 6090 C is openworked and endowed with a micro-rotor, its keen price precludes hand bevelled internal angles or mirror polishing.
The Calibre 7.75CM17 (ETA 2671) incorporates 25 jewels. The balance has a frequency of 28,800 VpH (4Hz) and the lone spring barrel provides a power reserve of 38 hours. The movement upholds watchmaking etiquette by following the contours of the case. It is affixed to the hour track with two rear-mounted screws.
Claude Meylan Tortue 6090 C case
The Claude Meylan Tortue 6090 C is presented in a 316L stainless steel case. Ordinarily, I would describe the profile of the case as ‘tonneau’, perceiving the length to be greater than the width. However, the appearance of this case is deceptive, it measures 40 mm x 40 mm. This is not a criticism, merely an observation.
The case has a thickness of 11 mm, a flat caseback and comparatively short lugs. It sits unobtrusively on the wrist and, personally speaking, proved very comfortable to wear. All surfaces are highly polished.
Usually on watches, the pane of sapphire crystal affixed to the caseback is smaller than its counterpart positioned dial-side. However, on this watch, the dorsal glazing is a facsimile of the dial-side glazing. This provides a widescreen verso perspective of the watch.
Claude Meylan Tortue 6090 C- closing remarks
The time indications on the Claude Meylan Tortue 6090 C are small but can still be easily read. Owing to the position of the hour markers, they contribute little to the overall readability, however, they do confer an attractive aesthetic.
The blend of bouchonné decoration and Côtes de Genève rayonnantes heighten the visual allure of this watch. Indeed, this is a very handsome timepiece which provides a welcome alternative to the ubiquitous round watch. By exposing several movement components, Claude Meylan has drawn the onlooker into the world of the watchmaker, a place many horophiles would love to inhabit.
While the movement has been sourced from ETA, the brand has personalised its specification with some delightful touches. The round profile of the standard mainplate has morphed into a ‘tortue’ shape, echoing the profile of the case. The addition of a micro-rotor sets this movement apart from most. Often watches equipped with a micro-rotor prove far costlier than the reasonably priced Claude Meylan.
This marque from the Vallée de Joux may not have created the base movement, however, it has demonstrated an impressive ability to transform a mainstream calibre into a delightful mechanical gem. This is a handsome timepiece which offers many attributes for a modest sum. Furthermore, the Claude Meylan Tortue 6090 C upholds the widely held belief that this region is brimming with watchmaking talent.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: Claude Meylan Tortue 6090 C
- Case: Stainless steel; dimensions 40 mm x 40 mm; height 11 mm; water resistance 3 ATM (30 metres); sapphire crystal to the front and caseback
- Functions: Hours; minutes; seconds
- Movement: Calibre 7.75CM17 (ETA 2671); self-winding movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz); 25 jewels; power reserve 38 hours
- Strap: Black leather strap paired with steel pin buckle
- Price: CHF 4850 including taxes (RRP as of 18.3.2019)