A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin Onyx Watch Review
Crafted in the Ore Mountains, the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin Onyx features an abyss-like, lustrous dial and a svelte case measuring just 6.2 mm in height. Despite its slender profile, the watch features a hand-wound movement packed with technical attributes and imbued with sublime artisanal craftsmanship.
A. Lange & Söhne, Glashütte
When standing in a public area, watching people rushing from one place to the next, I have an overwhelming feeling that life’s rhythm has hastened. Moreover, when I overhear conversations, sentences seem shorter, speech sounds faster and everything I hear feels unnecessarily loud. Intrusive mobile phones, public announcements and a scant disregard for personal space further exacerbate this sensory overload. Perhaps my observations and opinions are a consequence of my age, but nevertheless, as a mildly grumpy fiftysomething who struggles with hypertension, I constantly crave serenity. Now, A. Lange & Söhne, the esteemed German watch marque, has unveiled two new models that evoke a sense of calm.
The A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin is now available with a jet-black, glossy onyx dial, offered in a choice of two noble metals: 750 honey-gold or 950 platinum.
Both ownership options enunciate the hours and minutes with measured tone. Survey either reference and you will notice the welcome absence of unseemly flamboyance. Furthermore, there are no details capable of creating dissonance in the wearer’s mind, and notably, nothing inhibits understanding. Every element seems carefully considered, conferring both elegance and function.
I implore you to momentarily humour a grumpy, pepper-haired Lancastrian and embark on a journey of discovery, exploring a world where excellence is the norm: the manufacture of A. Lange & Söhne, located in Glashütte.
A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin Onyx – dial
Onyx is a gemstone that has been used by several high-end watch brands over the years, including A. Lange & Söhne. Indeed, just last year the manufacture added two new references to its Lange 1 collection, both featuring dials dressed in the coveted agate. Despite sharing the same dial layout as other members of the Lange 1 family, the jet-black epidermis imbued the Onyx references with a very different character from their siblings. Now, the Saxonia Thin is also available with a sultry black dial formed of the silicate material.
The creation of an onyx dial is a protracted process. Typically, the gemstone is submerged in a chemical solution over several weeks before eventually being dried, cut and polished. When undertaking such tasks, the craftsperson must ensure each onyx plate is free of imperfections. It is then sliced to form thin layers, always with due consideration to the stringent tolerances such work demands. Thereafter, the onyx disc is drilled, mounted on a 925 silver dial and the German company’s name is pad printed onto its surface. Baton-style indexes are applied by hand, their numerous facets playing with light and adding a becoming depth to the horological scene.
Connoisseurs of fine watchmaking will no doubt be aware of the manufacture’s reputation for crafting timepieces equipped with high-complications and ingenious mechanisms. However, on this occasion, A. Lange & Söhne has created a watch that eschews complexity in favour of purity and the singular expression of hours and minutes.
Blessed with a lustrous, jet-black glossy appearance, the dial is imbued with a high quotient of black-tie formality, evoking thoughts of pristine patent leather shoes, polished and gleaming.
The lance-style hour and minute hands are formed of gold, matching the hue of the case. At the fulcrum of the dial, a polished centre introduces tonal contrast. Moreover, the hands are elongated and svelte, characteristics that contribute to the overall sense of poise. In a world that often feels blighted by distracting details that inhibit understanding, the Lange’s hands gracefully rotate, succinctly and intelligibly imparting meaning as they move.
A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin Onyx – case
As previously stated, the Saxonia Thin Onyx is offered in a choice of 950 platinum or 750 honey-gold. This latter noble metal is exclusive to Lange. In common with gold alloys used by several luxury watch brands, it is 75% pure gold, commonly referred to as ’18-carat gold’. However, Lange has looked very closely at the 25% non-gold content, optimising its composition to deliver superior hardness and durability. These latter characteristics make the material more time-consuming to work with, but evidently this is a price Lange is willing to pay. When holding a watch formed of this alloy, it reveals a wonderful capacity to flit from one shade to another depending on the position of light. Save for the noble metal employed, the case details for both limited edition models are the same.
Formed of three parts, the case measures 40 mm in diameter, a size that promises widespread appeal. Most notably, as its names infers, the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin Onyx is slender, measuring a mere 6.2 mm in height. The short, curved and eminently sleek lugs encourage the case to envelop the wrist neatly. Indeed, while some watches overwhelm the wearer’s arm, appearing somewhat unwieldy, the Saxonia Thin Onyx echoes the shape of the wrist, sitting in ergonomic concert with the arm.
The case juxtaposes gleaming and brushed surfaces. A simple one-finish-fits-all approach would expedite the production process but as Lange has repeatedly shown over the years, it doesn’t countenance elementary techniques when excellence is in the offing.
A black glossy alligator leather strap unites the watch with the wearer. Again, it exudes formality with its high-sheen appearance. To the rear of the case, a pane of sapphire crystal reveals much inner beauty, namely the Manufacture calibre L093.1.
A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin Onyx – calibre L093.1
The German marque has chosen to equip this watch with a hand-wound movement, the manufacture calibre L093.1. Like many purists, I prefer manual watches to their automatic counterparts. Regressing to my ‘grumpy self’, the chaotic world we now live in can sometimes feel too much; however, like many horophiles, I find the daily ritual of winding a watch to be cathartic. Indeed, just for a few moments, the world stops turning while I enjoy a moment of intimacy with my watch, rotating its crown and imparting energy to the mainspring. A simple pleasure that leaves both the watch and owner feeling nourished.
It is not essential to wind the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin Onyx every day as the calibre L093.1 will run autonomously for 72 hours. While the movement promises precision and reliability, these are a given in the rarefied heights of Haute Horlogerie. Where Lange distinguishes itself as outstanding is in the way it crafts movements, uniting mechanical virtuosity and artisanal expertise. This is particularly evident with the manufacture calibre L093.1.
Unlike most Swiss watches featuring multiple bridges, Lange favours a three-quarter plate, an approach that imbues the movement with greater rigidity, mitigating potential flex.
The mainplate and bridges found in the majority of watch movements are made of brass and are rhodium-plated; however, Lange prefers to make the key components of its movements (mainplate, three-quarter plate and balance cock) from untreated German silver. This alloy, containing copper, nickel and zinc, is resistant to corrosion, hence does not require plating. Furthermore, German silver (aka maillechort) is harder than brass, albeit this makes it more challenging to decorate.
When working with German silver, the watchmaker must always wear finger cots as touching the bare alloy will leave a residue that will eventually mar its flawless appearance. Should a watchmaker touch a part, perhaps due to a lapse in concentration, it must be removed and thoroughly cleaned to ensure the movement’s appearance is not compromised. It is for this reason most watch brands take the easier route of using brass.
In true Lange-style, the movement is endowed with a plethora of refined finishes, including perlage on the mainplate, Glashütte ribbing on the three-quarter plate, thermally blued screws and gold chatons. The endpiece and the upper face of the swan-neck are the result of an artisan expending much time and energy using a tin-plate and diamantine paste, painstakingly polishing these flat surfaces to produce a mirror-like gleam. The balance cock is enriched with a hand-engraved floral pattern, each motif unique to its creator. The design of each part appears to be the outcome of contemplation. Even the proportions of components such as the crown-wheel and ratchet wheel and the shape of the arcing click spring transcend mere functionality. Everything is wonderfully thought through and painstakingly crafted to an exalted standard.
Closing remarks
The onyx dial is lustrous and exhibits a becoming depth, while at same time it acts as a foil for the hands and indexes, conversing with the wearer clearly. Nothing inhibits understanding and everything is pure and harmonious.
A. Lange & Söhne has produced a highly wearable watch, blessed with a svelte torso that exudes refinement from every angle. And yet, despite its slender profile, the watch is filled with all of goodness for which Lange is known for. Indeed, the in-house Manufacture calibre L093.1, brimming with refinements, unites watchmaking excellence with exquisite craftsmanship making it the perfect antidote to middle-aged stress.
Further reading
https://www.alange-soehne.com/
Technical specification
- Model: A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin Onyx
- Reference: 211.052 (750 honey-gold)
- Reference: 211.062 (950 platinum)
- Case: diameter 40.0 mm, height 6.2 mm, sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition caseback.
- Functions: hours, minutes
- Movement: Lange manufacture calibre L093.1, hand-wound movement, frequency 21,600 vph (3 Hz), contains 21 jewels, power reserve 72 hours when fully wound, 167 components
- Strap: black, glossy alligator strap paired with a prong buckle
- Price on application
- Limited Edition: 200 pieces each