A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk 2022 Watch Review
The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk 2022 builds on the success of the groundbreaking watch of 2009. Some of the differences may appear subtle, while other modifications are very significant. Most notably, the German Manufactory has revisited the model’s movement, the calibre L043.6, which now runs autonomously for 72 hours, twice that of the former model. US-based journalist, Meehna Goldsmith reviews the model in her own inimitable style.
Coming of age?
Released in 2009, the Zeitwerk was, and still is, a marvel. It delivers a digital presentation of time driven by mechanics, which is incredibly complicated to achieve. Moreover, I love the irony. Perhaps not intended, the Zeitwerk politely and subtly thumbs its nose at quartz-driven digital watches.
If you didn’t realise it, the Zeitwerk, inspired by the five-minute clock at the Semper Opera House in Dresden, celebrates its 13th birthday this year. It’s an important milestone in anyone’s life. With the release of the second-generation Zeitwerk, the model seems even more grown up, delivering additional refinements and functionality.
Brands often introduce models as exciting new editions to their lineup. A different dial, font or alternative case material is often heralded as a significant event that merits pom poms and a flipping stunt. If I were to change my eyeshadow and lipstick colour, would I be classified as a fresh edition and receive the same fanfare?
The second-generation Zeitwerk doesn’t have to resort to smoke and mirrors to claim this a significant evolution worthy of a debut. Lange has redesigned the model, incorporating various changes that make the watch more practical and functional.
First off, it has doubled the gas in the tank. The previous Zeitwerk only had a power reserve of 36 hours. That’s a little paltry for modern-day living and convenience, in my opinion. Not only did Lange address this issue with this new Zeitwerk, it did so in a big way. Now, you’ve got 72 hours of juice, so even if you forget to wind the watch for a few days it will merrily tick along.
A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk 2022 – an inverted pusher at 4 o’clock
With the previous model, the hours could only be advanced using the crown. That can be a wrist-straining affair, not to mention annoying, especially if you’re jaunting about the world in different time zones. Now there is a convenient pusher at 4 o’clock on hand to advance the hour. The pusher is an ‘inverted type’, meaning nothing happens until the pusher is released. The setting of the minutes is still performed by rotating the crown at 2 o’clock.
Usually, a pusher functions on the initial push, causing the hour or date to jump. The inverted pusher is actually a more elegant and expensive design that prevents accidental adjustment if the pusher is inadvertently pressed halfway. This mechanism was first employed on the Zeitwerk Date, a model that is equipped with a similar movement, save for the absence of a date indication.
A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk 2022 – new dial details
To alert the wearer that it will soon be winding time, the power reserve indicator incorporates red detail signifying there are only 12 hours of energy remaining. While offering utility, it also brings a different aesthetic flavour to the previous generation model. Some will like the pop of colour while others might find the red distracting and a break from the overall colour scheme. Ultimately, it’s a matter of personal taste.
In this model, the subsidiary seconds positioned at 6 o’clock is larger and takes a more prominent position within the canvas. It’s an aesthetic decision that I’m thrilled with. While I technically admired the first-generation watch, it was somehow a bit too strict and severe to my eye. Increasing the circumference of the seconds dial and downplaying the time bridge, where the hours and minutes sit in digital windows, softens the lines, creating a more inviting aperture. You could also argue the larger sub-seconds was a functional choice for weak eyes. Either way, everyone wins, aesthetes and utilitarians alike. Note that the time bridge is made of German silver, a hallmark of the brand’s movements.
A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk 2022 – Calibre L043.6
What makes the ballet come alive on the dial is the Calibre L043.6. Here resides the patented barrel design with two mainsprings, endowing the watch with a weekend-long power reserve. To store that kind of power, in general, is a remarkable feat, however, to achieve this degree of autonomy despite three discs frequently jumping is nothing less than spectacular.
Setting aside the hour disc, there are two minute discs, one for the ‘tens’ and the other for the ‘units’, both lead busy lives, jumping 6 and 60 times per hour, respectively. This predilection for jumping would usually lead to vast amounts of energy being consumed. Therefore, the 72 hour power reserve of this latest Zeitwerk proves very impressive.
Another achievement worthy of note is the way the Calibre L043.6 cleverly controls the power from the mainsprings serving the escapement and regulating organ. When the mainsprings are fully tensioned there is a lot of power passing through the gear train to the escapement and regulating organ. However, with many watches as the power from the mainsprings diminishes the amplitude of the balance wheel drops, impairing precision. The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk has a constant-force escapement, ensuring the power serving the escapement and regulating organ remains uniform, contributing to precision and rate stability. This feature is particularly relevant on the Zeitwerk which will gulp additional mouthfuls of power whenever the jumping numerals advance.
The second generation Zeitwerk is available in two versions, 950 platinum or 18-carat pink gold.
A great watch has just got a whole lot better
With the advent of the new The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk, a great watch has just got a whole lot better.
Further reading
https://www.alange-soehne.com/
Technical specification
- Model: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk
- Reference: 142.025 (950 platinum) / 142.031 (18-carat pink gold)
- Case: diameter 41.9 mm, height 12.2 mm, sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition caseback
- Functions: hours and minutes with jumping numerals, subsidiary seconds with stop seconds, power-reserve indicator
- Movement: Lange manufacture calibre L043.6, hand-wound movement, frequency 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz), contains 61 jewels, power reserve 72 hours (when fully wound), 451 components
- Strap: colour-coordinating hand-stitched alligator leather with matching prong buckle
- Price on application (boutique exclusive)