Armin Strom Pure Resonance Ultimate Sapphire
The Armin Strom Pure Resonance Ultimate Sapphire began life as a bespoke timepiece, a one-off creation, crafted for a keen watch collector. During the consultation process, Horomariobro (collector), Jeremy Oster (retailer) and Claude Greisler (Armin Strom) explored new aesthetic details and unique finishes. However, near the end of the project, pleased with the final watch, it was decided that the pièce unique would instead become a limited series of 10 pieces. Angus Davies retells the story of this collaborative effort.
What is a luxury watch?
There are some watch buyers who yearn to own a popular luxury watch that bears a recognisable logo on its dial. These individuals seem keen to fanfare their success with a conspicuous token of personal wealth. Sadly, such watches, while perfectly functional, are often mass-produced. Indeed, in some cases, these so-called exclusive watches, basking in a retailer’s window beneath the glare of halogen lights, maybe just one of several hundred thousand pieces produced each year. Buyers take note, a long waiting list does not always denote scarcity!
Haute Horlogerie
Haute Horlogerie and exclusivity are intertwined. The protracted creation of a matchless mechanical watch is not the product of haste. While CNC, bar turning and wire erosion machines are employed in the making of such watches, painstaking finissage, often performed by hand, is used to remove traces of machining. Moreover, such finishing removes burrs which could impair the motion of moving parts and enhances corrosion resistance while at the same time it enriches the visual appeal of movement parts.
Beyond a movement’s technical virtue and exalted decoration, refinement also extends to the dial and case. Indeed, an exemplar of Haute Horlogerie will be endowed with a plethora of tiny details intended to elicit joy for decades to come.
Pièce unique
Haute Horlogerie is esoteric, a delicacy enjoyed by a comparatively small percentage of the World’s population, however, for those individuals that have tasted this expression of luxury, there is nothing sweeter. Arguably, a bespoke timepiece represents the pinnacle of Haute Horlogerie. In fact, if you turn over a watch and see the words, ‘pièce unique’, you know you ‘have arrived’.
Armin Strom Manufacture
This preamble brings me to Armin Strom, the prestigious Manufacture based in Biel. It has gained a reputation for crafting technically brilliant watches that dwell in the rarefied world of Haute Horlogerie. Most notably, the brand has cleverly harnessed the phenomenon of resonance, connecting two balances with a patented clutch spring, delivering exceptional rate stability and precision. I discussed resonance in my review of the Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Manufacture Edition, a must-read for all watch obsessives.
Horomariobro and Jeremy Oster
Returning to the Armin Strom Pure Resonance Ultimate Sapphire and the story behind its inspiration, Horomariobro, an avid watch collector and Instagram influencer, made it known to his longtime friend Jeremy Oster of Oster Jewelers, Denver of his desire to own a bespoke Armin Strom Resonance watch. As a result, Jeremy contacted Claude Greisler of Armin Strom and, thereafter, the development process began. Indeed, Claude, Horomariobro and Jeremy regularly discussed the specification of the one-off creation. At the conclusion of the lengthy development process, the resultant watch looked spectacular. Delighted with this magnum opus, Horomariobro agreed to 10 pieces being produced, all to be sold via his friend’s boutique.
Sapphire dial
As the name implies, the Armin Strom Pure Resonance Ultimate Sapphire is equipped with a grey sapphire dial, positioned off-centre. This feature affords sight of various wheels while still proving eminently legible. The hour and minute hands, made in-house to the Manufacture’s own design, are lined with a liberal application of Super-LumiNova.
Guilloché
Armin Strom devotees may notice that this model eschews a small seconds display. By taking this decision, the dial of the Pure Resonance Ultimate Sapphire seems more symmetrical. Indeed, the hour and minute display serves to counterbalance the twin balances and clutch spring. Furthermore, the pared-back inventory of functions allows the guilloché sections, front of house, to sing. Suffice to say, nothing mars the performance.
Tremblage
The winding bridge, positioned at 3 o’clock, is adorned with tremblage. This traditional decoration technique involves using a bespoke engraving tool or burin to impart a series of small indentations, imbuing the surface with a richly textured motif.
Calibre ARF16
To the rear of the watch, the Calibre ARF16 has also been endued with a series of artisanal touches. The gear train bridges are dressed in black PVD and are enlivened with grain d’orge guilloché, executed by Kari Voutilainen and his esteemed colleagues. Surveying the remaining visible surfaces reveals a world of hand-frosting, hand-bevelling, perlage and über-desirable mirror polishing. These latter forms of decoration are performed by the company’s in-house team of finisseurs.
Minimal branding
The Armin Strom Pure Resonance Ultimate Sapphire forgoes any conspicuous branding. Likewise, the Swiss firm’s distinctive ‘lip’ has also been omitted on this occasion. However, one glance at the twin balances and clutch spring in motion, performing their hypnotic dance, and the parentage of this watch is abundantly clear. A circular plate affixed to the rear of the movement, termed ‘the pin’, bears the name Horomariobro, while the caseback is engraved with the Manufacture’s nomen.
Personal taste
It is interesting when two, or in this case, three parties collaborate. On this occasion, the resultant watch draws on the immense expertise of the Swiss marque, but it also shows the creative influence of Jeremy Oster and Horomariobro. Whether you think this model is better than the ‘regular’ Mirrored Force Resonance is probably a matter of personal taste. However, isn’t that why discerning individuals yearn for bespoke products? To specify a product that satisfies their individual and exact needs.
Limited-Edition watch
As previously stated, this watch was originally intended to be a pièce unique, however, it has now become a limited edition of 10 pieces. While these will remain very exclusive and much sought-after, I cannot help but wonder whether Horomariobro will continue to yearn for his own a pièce unique. I predict he may well be venturing into Herr Greisler’s office again very soon.
Further reading
Technical specification
- Model: Armin Strom Pure Resonance Ultimate Sapphire
- Reference: ST17-RP.SA
- Case: stainless steel, diameter 42mm, height 13mm, water resistance 5ATM (50 metres), sapphire crystal to front, exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes
- Movement: Caliber ARF16, hand-wound movement, frequency 25,200 Vph (3.5Hz), 38 jewels, power reserve 48 hours, 213 components.
- Strap: black fabric strap with light grey stitching and double folding clasp in stainless steel
- Price: USD $59,000 – (RRP as of 23.6.2023)
- Limited Edition: 10 pieces