Armin Strom Tribute 1 Rose Gold Watch Review
The Armin Strom Tribute 1 Rose Gold builds on the success of the ‘first edition’ and subsequent California version, both launched last year. Presented in a 38 mm case, it is equipped with a Manufacture movement and is keenly priced. Could demand, once again, outstrip supply?
Armin Strom Tribute 1
Early in 2021, Armin Strom unveiled its inaugural dress watch, the Tribute 1. Prior to the arrival of this horological black tie ensemble, the brand’s watches were more sporty and casually attired. Measuring 38mm in diameter, the scale of this model was and remains a popular size. Limited to just 25 pieces, the ‘first edition’ of the Tribute 1 proved a roaring success.
A few months later, in November 2021, Armin Strom released the Tribute 1 California. As its name suggests, the watch featured a distinctive California-type dial, the beloved format that encompasses both Roman and Arabic numerals. The model was offered in a choice of five dial options, namely blue, light blue, green, burgundy and black and, once again, it was limited to 25 pieces in total. Literally, within a few days of releasing these watches, all examples were sold.
Armin Strom Tribute 1 Rose Gold – same size, but now with an added note of nobility
Now, the Biel-based Manufacture has unveiled a new iteration of its modestly sized dress watch, the Armin Strom Tribute 1 Rose Gold. This time it is encased in the eponymous precious metal, imbuing the refined model with an air of nobility. Consistent with its steel forebears, the case measures 38 mm in diameter and has a restrained height of 9.38 mm.
Armin Strom Tribute 1 Rose Gold – dial
Beyond its luxurious case material and modest dimensions, the watch is enlivened with new sumptuous tones. The off-centre display is presented in a black gold finish, adorned with azurage (snailing). The hour, minutes and central sweep seconds hands are steel and coated in 18K 5N rose gold, all manufactured in-house and hand-decorated by the company’s artisans. The indexes comprise white printed markings for the odd-numbered values and applied golden batons for the even-numbered hours.
To the side of the off-centre display, the remaining areas of the dial are enriched with a grenage finish, again in black gold.
Armin Strom Tribute 1 Rose Gold – Calibre AMW21
Armin Strom has always had a penchant for skeletonised watches, something it announced to the world with its advertising slogan ‘we show what we make’. While the Armin Strom Tribute 1 Rose Gold is a little more prudish than its siblings, revealing less of its underwear, it does showcase the barrel front of house. This barrel is supported by a twin-spoke bridge, formed of gold and hand-bevelled using time-served hands.
To the rear, a pane of sapphire crystal grants sight of the hand-wound Calibre AMW21. This in-house movement is beautifully appointed with Côtes de Genève, perlage, side graining, anglage, sandblasting and straight graining. Everything is distilled to a pure conclusion, culminating in a paragon of high-end watchmaking, worthy of the term ‘Haute Horlogerie’.
In-house expertise and a penchant for innovation
Armin Strom opened its Biel-based Manufacture in 2009. While the company’s premises are much smaller than some mainstream brands, the firm’s building is packed with state of the art equipment. Within the confines of the Manufacture, CNC, profile turning and wire-erosion machines are employed for making mainplates, bridges, screws, pinions, wheels, pivots, etc. Indeed, there aren’t many movement components the Swiss firm doesn’t make. Beyond its impressive production capabilities, Armin Strom crafts watches to the highest standard with hand finishing much in evidence.
Claude Greisler, co-founder of the brand, is an immensely talented watchmaker with an impressive track record for innovation. For instance, the brand has embraced the phenomenon of resonance and adapted it for use within a wristwatch, conferring superior precision. Furthermore, the company’s ‘Gravity Equal Force’ model is endowed with a motor barrel (see later) and a Geneva stop works, resulting in a more consistent supply of torque to the regulating organ. Quite simply, Greisler and his colleagues repeatedly challenge convention for the benefit of its clients.
The Motor Barrel is back
When the crown is rotated on a ‘standard watch’, energy is sent via the transmission wheel to the ratchet wheel. As the ratchet wheel turns, it tensions the inner part of the mainspring around the arbor, causing the arbor to rotate. Once winding is complete, the arbor remains fixed while the barrel housing rotates transferring energy to the centre wheel. In this case, the mainspring barrel doesn’t rotate in a precision jewel bearing but around the arbor, heightening friction and delivering an inconsistent supply of force.
However, like the Gravity Equal Force, the Armin Strom Tribute 1 Rose Gold is fitted with a ‘motor barrel’. In this instance, the barrel housing remains locked after winding and the arbor transmits energy to the gear train. By adopting this approach the arbor is more stable, with less side-to-side motion, moving more precisely when driving the going train and mitigating wear.
Armin Strom Tribute 1 Rose Gold – closing thoughts
The Armin Strom Tribute 1 Rose Gold is a shining example of high horology and the reason why I, and legions of other horophiles, are drawn to the delights of independent watchmaking. Indeed, this sector is currently enjoying exponential growth with many brands reporting full order books. As I previously mentioned, within days of the Tribute 1 California being released, all pieces sold out. Based on this, coupled with its keen asking price of CHF 23,900, I would not be surprised if the Armin Strom Tribute 1 Rose Gold proves to be another box-office sensation.
Further reading
Technical specification
- Model: Armin Strom Tribute 1 Rose Gold
- Reference: RG21-TRI.70
- Case: Diameter 38 mm; height 9.38 mm; water resistance 5 ATM (50 metres); sapphire crystal to front; exhibition case back.
- Functions: Hours; minutes; seconds
- Movement: Caliber AMW21; hand-wound movement; frequency 25,200 vph (3.5 Hz); 21 jewels; power reserve 100 hours; 135 components.
- Strap: Black alligator leather strap and double folding clasp in stainless steel 18K 5N rose gold coated
- Price: CHF 26,000 – (RRP as of 30.9.2023)
- Limited Edition: 100 pieces