Arnold & Son Luna Magna Watch Review
The Arnold & Son Luna Magna, part of the brand’s Astronomy collection, celebrates the phases of the moon in spectacular 3D fashion. Carl Eady reviews this exquisite timepiece that marries peerless design with a highly refined hand-wound movement, the A&S1021 calibre.
Dark Side of the Moon
In all religions, cultures, the arts and of course the world of science, the moon has held a long deep-rooted fascination. Over the centuries, the moon has been interpreted as a god and a planet, as well as a timekeeper and calendar. In popular music, the moon has long been a source of inspiration. From Beethoven’s ‘Moonlight Sonata’ to Van Morrison’s ‘Moondance’ and Pink Floyd’s ‘Dark Side of the Moon’– cultural icons that have provided the soundtracks to our lives with creative references to our nearest celestial satellite.
John Arnold (1736-1799)
During the 1700s, the rock stars of the day were men of science and engineering, including our most celebrated watchmakers. One such individual was the highly revered horologist and inventor John Arnold (1736-1799). At the height of his creativity, he held patents for a Detent escapement, a bimetallic balance and a helical balance spring. Arnold’s work drew admiration from his contemporaries, such as Abraham Louis Breguet, who became a lifelong friend. He received the acclaim of royal courts across Europe and came to the attention of the Admiralty, who sought Arnold’s expertise in solving their ongoing seafaring problem of measuring longitude over great distances. Arnold was captivated by astronomy and its place in timekeeping and navigation. It was fitting therefore that when the brand Arnold & Son was relaunched back in 1995, it included a ‘Perpetual Moon’ Astronomy collection alongside World Time and Chronometry models.
A three-dimensional interpretation of the moon
Wonderfully oversized lunar interpretations grace the dials of various examples of Arnold & Son’s Perpetual Moon. Always the standout feature of the watch, the dials are beautifully engraved to reflect the moon’s craters and seas, but until now have always been two-dimensional. In their latest creation, aptly named the Arnold & Son Luna Magna, the prestigious brand has joined illustrious watchmakers such as De Bethune, Christiaan van der Klaauw, Ulysse Nardin and Konstantin Chaykin in producing a truly three-dimensional interpretation of the moon.
Arnold & Son Luna Magna – 44 mm case
The Luna Magna is finished in 18k red gold and features exceptional polishing throughout. At 44 mm, it is an imposing case, especially when considering the current trend for smaller case sizes. However, careful consideration of the design and angle of the long-tapered lugs suggests the watch will sit comfortably on the wrist. To accommodate the sizeable moon indicator, the case height measures 15.9mm. Consequently, this is not a watch for shy and retiring types.
A shallow crown at 3 o’clock sports Arnold & Son’s maritime logo and decorative fluting. The brand has clearly taken great care to ensure that the case is beautifully executed, but not so decorative as to detract attention from the beauty of the dial.
On the reverse side, the case is hallmarked and engraved with the ‘Limited No X/28’, one of 28 Limited Edition references to be produced, 3 ATM water resistance and the Arnold & Son moniker.
Arnold & Son Luna Magna – sapphire crystals
Anti-reflective sapphire crystals afford clear sight of the front and back of the Luna Magna and arguably both sides are as attractive as each other. At the front, a domed sapphire crystal provides sufficient room to accommodate the 3D moon as well as bathing the dial with an abundance of light. The reverse side affords a spectacular view of the A&S1021 calibre via a large exhibition caseback. Providing such breathtaking views to the front and rear of the watch proves a master stroke on the part of Arnold & Son.
Arnold & Son Luna Magna – off-centre dial
Consistent with many Arnold & Son designs, the dial is presented off-centre at 12 o’clock. This ensures the chief complication is afforded its rightful share of the dial estate. Finished in a bright white lacquer and sporting large black Roman numerals, it delivers a perfect contrast with the outer dial. This is a bold, classically styled subdial, presenting the time with an air of authority, as if not to be outdone by its lunar-themed neighbour. A depiction of a stunning night sky surrounds the time dial and moon-phase indicator. With a glass-like polish, the gorgeous deep blue quartzite ‘aventurine’ surface contains thousands of tiny stars that dance in the light.
Arnold & Son Luna Magna – the largest 3-dimensional lunar indicator within a wristwatch
However, it is the moon phase indicator that really catches the eye. At 12mm it is the largest 3-dimensional lunar indicator ever incorporated within a wristwatch. Using a CNC machine to create each hemisphere, the final ensemble is perfectly spherical. The dark side of the moon matches the outer dial in polished aventurine and sits in stark contrast to the white marble located on the opposite side. The bicolour moon fits snuggly into its aperture, gracefully rotating around its vertical axis with breathtaking precision thanks to the A&S1021 calibre.
Arnold & Son may not be the first brand to create a three-dimensional moon phase, but the sheer scale of the celestial body on this model stands out and signals the brand’s intention to become a major player in this category.
A&S1021 calibre
Manufactured in-house, the A&S1021 calibre comprises some 255 parts and is primarily intended to accurately display the lunar cycle. Given that it is a hand-wound calibre, the inclusion of a power reserve indicator may prove a beneficial feature on future iterations.
A&S1021 calibre – secondary moon-phase indicator
Just off centre, in pride of place, is a secondary moon-phase indicator, which enables the wearer to set the moon to its precise astronomical position. Despite its mystery and majesty, being able to track the cycles of the moon probably sits in the lower echelons of useful complications to be found in a wristwatch. It is therefore all the more commendable that Arnold & Son has gone to such lengths to make it so accurate. With a complete lunar cycle taking 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 2.8 seconds, the precision of the movement is such that it would take 122 years for the accuracy to deviate by one day.
A&S1021 calibre – finishing
Decoration throughout the movement is exemplary. Perlage is visible on the mainplate and the anglage on each bridge is combined with radial Côtes de Genève which emanates from the centre of the lunar indicator. The balance cock is openworked and features fine anglage. No part of the movement goes untouched, each of the gear wheels as well as the click are straight-grained. Thermally blued screws and various rubies sit in polished sinks, adding some colour to the movement’s decorative pageantry.
A&S1021 calibre – additional details
Beating at 3 Hz / 21,600 vph, the A&S1021 will run for a commendable 90 hours once fully wound.
Arnold & Son Luna Magna – strap
Arnold & Son has chosen to pair the Luna Magna with a blue hand-stitched alligator leather strap. The deep blue hue serves as a perfect foil for the polished rose gold case and complements the deep aventurine dial. The strap is lined with soft calf leather embossed with the brand’s name and logo. Securing the strap in position is a simple 18k rose gold pin buckle.
Arnold & Son Luna Magna – Closing thoughts
By launching the Arnold & Son Luna Magna, the Maison has produced one of the most spectacular moon-phase watches on the market. Already firmly established as a master of two-dimensional dials, Arnold & Son has added a new string to its bow with this 3-dimensional depiction of the celestial body.
The Luna Magna is gorgeously impractical for daily wear and the accuracy of its eponymous complication will never be fully tested during one, or even two generations of ownership, so why would collectors love such a clearly indulgent creation? Part of the charm and notable appeal of independent watchmaking lies in celebrating the illustration of time through mechanical art. Both sides of this creation are equally beautiful, the front is clean, crisp and legible, merging the classic with the contemporary. The reverse is captivating, offering a window into fine mechanical watchmaking and finnisage, laying bare the A&S1021 calibre’s soul.
Producing a watch of considerable complexity takes many hours and painstaking skills, both in terms of design and execution. Therefore, it comes as no surprise to hear that the model is limited to just 28-pieces. These rare watches will eventually grace some of the luckiest wrists in the watch-collecting community.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: Arnold & Son Luna Magna
- Reference: 1LMAR.A02A.C153A
- Case: 18-carat red gold (5N), diameter 44 mm, water resistance 3ATM (30m), sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back.
- Functions: Hours, minutes, astronomical three-dimensional moon phases (one day correction required every 122 years), moon phase indicator on the reverse side
- Movement: A&S1021 calibre; hand-wound movement; frequency 21,600 vph (3Hz); 35 jewels; power reserve 90 hours
- Strap: Hand-stitched blue alligator strap with an 18-carat red gold pin buckle
- Price: 43,900 CHF excluding tax (RRP as of 12.5.2021)