Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon 38 Mintnight Watch Review
The Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon 38 Mintnight is a stunning gem-set watch that reimagines the moon phase by inviting the wearer to view it from the Earth. At its heart, this 38mm timepiece is equipped with the Calibre A&S1612, an in-house, hand-wound movement. Meehna Goldsmith explores this pulchritudinous exemplar of Haute Horlogerie.
The allure of the moon
The moon, the brightest object in the night sky inspires wonder and projects mystery across religions and cultures. It’s been associated with femininity, fertility, renewal and intuition. Conversely, the moon has represented madness, danger, chaos and death. Whatever your interpretation, there’s no denying the moon’s pull on our imagination.
Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon collection
Although the moon is a magnificent lantern that illuminates the heavens, it tends to become a footnote when interpreted on a watch. Arnold & Son decided it was time the moon got its due. Presented in 2013, the Perpetual Moon collection featured the moon as the sole complication. Instead of being located in a tiny window, the moon phase spreads out, occupying the top half of the dial and depicting the planetary-mass object from space.
Arnold & Son showed it was serious about the moon phase. It was no dilettante in the arena. There would be no snapping a module onto the movement as an addendum. The moon deserved better. That’s why the brand developed A&S1512, an in-house calibre with an integrated moon phase. In other words, the movement included the moon phase complication as part of the original blueprint.
Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon 38 Mintnight – 38 mm case
When Arnold & Son first presented the Perpetual Moon collection, the watches came in a 41.5 mm case. This size is more suited to a man’s wrist. Soon followed an interpretation of the Perpetual Moon for women in a 38 mm case. It will come as no surprise that Arnold & Son went back to the drawing board to design and manufacture the A&S1612, a unique calibre for its feminine iterations.
Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon 38 Mintnight – an alternative view of the moon
The Perpetual Moon 38 Mintnight is the latest member to join the Perpetual Moon family. However, this women’s piece differs from all of its other siblings in a significant way. Instead of the moon appearing from the perspective of space, the Mintnight offers a view from the Earth.
The scene on the dial is set with undulating waves of mother-of-pearl in mint green and shades of blue that resemble waves lapping at the horizon. The formidable ruthenium crystal moon sparkles above as it makes its monthly journey across the dial, while hand-painted stars of the Big Dipper and Cassiopeia constellations dot the sky.
Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon 38 Mintnight – ruthenium details
To indicate the hours, a crown of five marquise-cut diamonds glimmer on high, arranged from 10 to 2 o’clock. Meanwhile, on shore, the sands, also made from ruthenium crystals, reflect the light of the moon. Those familiar with Arnold & Son will recognise ruthenium, a rare member of the platinum family, as one of the brand’s signature design elements.
Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon 38 Mintnight – 2.57 carats of diamonds
The light show continues to the white gold 38 mm case, which is encrusted with 80 brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel, horns and crown. In addition, the buckle features 22 diamonds, bringing the total amount to 2.57 carats. The composition is finished off with a teal-blue alligator leather strap that has a satin feel. On the underside, the lining hosts a surprise pop of raspberry-pink.
Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon 38 Mintnight – A&S1612 calibre
As mentioned above, the Mintnight hosts the specifically crafted manual-wind A&S1612 calibre that measures just 29.4 mm yet still delivers a hearty 90-hour power reserve. The smallest calibre in Arnold & Sons’ collection, its moon phase will remain accurate to a day for a remarkable 122 years. As seen through the sapphire crystal caseback, the calibre is thoughtfully decorated with Côtes de Genève motif, polished and chamfered bridges, circular satin-finished wheels and, lastly, blued, chamfered screws with polished heads.
Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon 38 Mintnight – closing thoughts
The Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon 38 Mintnight is a gorgeous piece of mechanical art. The concept is novel and the design distinctive. There’s nothing quite like it on the market. I’m not usually a big fan of women’s watches because the addition of gems feels like an effort to dress up the piece. With the Mintnight, the gems, like the movement, are integral to the conception. Given the opportunity, I’d definitely strap this watch to my wrist.
Further reading
Technical specification
- Model: Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon 38 Mintnight
- Reference: 1GLM.WZ03A.C247A
- Case: 18-carat white gold, set with 80 brilliant-cut diamonds, diameter 38 mm, height 10.44 mm, water resistance 3 ATM (30 m), sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back
- Functions: hours, minutes, astronomical moon phases
- Movement: A&S1612 calibre; hand-wound movement; frequency 21,600 vph (3 Hz), 24 jewels; power reserve 90 hours
- Strap: teal-blue satin-feel alligator leather, raspberry-pink alligator-leather lining and hand-stitched paired with a pin buckle, 18-carat white gold, set with 22 brilliant-cut diamond
- Swiss retail price: – CHF 64,600 including taxes (RRP as of 29.8.2023)
- Limited Edition: 18 timepieces