Atelier Holgur Frømand Watch Review
The Atelier Holgur Frømand is a new interpretation of a divers’ watch. As Angus Davies explains, this timepiece shares much in common with its contemporaries while exhibiting a notable degree of refinement. It has clearly been to Swiss finishing school, enunciates its words perfectly and knows how to behave in all social settings.
Atelier Holgur Watch Review
The US Army began using the Willys Jeep in 1941. It was the first mass-produced four-wheel drive light military vehicle. Its extraordinary functionality led to the creation of similar vehicles from rival companies. Capable of coping with adverse conditions, the utility vehicle was adopted by farmers, police forces and individuals seeking ‘go anywhere’ practicality.
Later, the utility vehicle was gentrified. Raw, unadorned interiors were suddenly clad in leather and walnut. Leaf springs were supplanted by cosseting air suspension and numerous interior niceties made motorway journeys just that bit more relaxing. Admittedly, these modern-day luxury utility vehicles lack the go-anywhere ability of the Willys Jeep, but they still remain capable of tackling muddy tracks and snow-covered lanes, fulfilling the needs of most owners.
The first divers’ watches appeared in the 1930s and were originally the preserve of commercial and military divers. Robustness, reliability, legibility and remarkable water resistance were essential for subaquatic use. Later, helium valves were introduced, a necessary feature when engaging in saturation diving. In the 1950s, amateur scuba divers began wearing divers’ watches, no doubt drawn to the many benefits this genre of timepiece delivers.
Today, many serious divers favour a dive computer, however, this has done little to dampen the popularity of divers’ watches. In fact, an increasing number of land lovers choose to wear a subaquatic-themed watch.
Now, there is a new company on the watch scene, Atelier Holgur and it has created a new divers’ watch that, on the face of it, gentrifies the sometimes utilitarian divers’ watch. Allow me to elaborate.
Atelier Holgur Frømand dial
The dial of the Atelier Holgur Frømand is dressed in black and enlivened with snailed decoration (azurage). The hour and minute hands are plump, partially openworked, liberally coated with Super-LumiNova and converse with generously proportioned indexes, incorporating 3D lume. A snailed small seconds dial is located at 6 o’clock, framed with a white luminescent track. When darkness arrives, the white details assume a green hue.
Clear and functional, the dial of the Frømand looks decidedly modern and eminently sumptuous.
Atelier Holgur Frømand case
Housed in a 40 mm case, the Frømand doesn’t overwhelm the wrist with undue bulk. On the contrary, it’s far more refined than that. Atelier Holgur has selected lightweight Grade 5 titanium. This alloy composed of 90% titanium, 6% aluminium and 4% vanadium proves more expensive than Grade 2 titanium, but is stronger and can be polished to a resplendent gleam.
Grade 5 titanium is also corrosion-resistant, unaffected by magnetic fields and hypoallergenic. However, the alloy cannot be stamped, hence cases must be milled using CNC, a costlier means of production. Due to the cost of Grade 5 titanium, watches made from the alloy are often expensive. But it seems Atelier Holgur has chosen to disrupt the marketplace with the Frømand’s keen pricing (8,850 CHF (excluding taxes)).
A unidirectional bezel subscribes to divers’ watch convention. Dressed in black DLC, it clicks 120 times when rotated 360° and incorporates Super-LumiNova, bestowing a green emission in restricted light conditions.
The watch is supplied with two straps made with tide ocean material® (recycled ocean plastic), a ‘daily wear strap’ and a ‘diving single loop strap’.
Atelier Holgur calibre ASE 200
Atelier Holgur has not skimped on the movement either. It has engaged Schwarz Etienne, the high-end Swiss movement specialist, to supply a suitable source of power. The calibre ASE 200 is a tried and trusted automatic movement incorporating a micro-rotor, usually the preserve of Haute Horlogerie.
Breaking with divers’ watch convention, the Frømand is endowed with an exhibition caseback affording sight of the calibre ASE 200. Unusually, the movement is skeletonised and microblasted with hand polished bevelled edges. It all feels very sophisticated for a divers’ watch and, considering the comparatively modest asking price, quite remarkable.
Atelier Holgur Frømand – closing remarks
Atelier Holgur Frømand is the first creation from the new independent brand and it proves an impressive debut. Indeed, the specification and execution of this model would humble several rival watches from some of the more well-established mainstream brands.
The Frømand delivers the essential requirements for a divers’ watch, including robustness and legibility. It is also water resistant to 300 m, which for the majority of would-be wearers, is more than sufficient. However, it is the attention to detail, the quality of the materials employed, the versatility of the watch and its impressive movement that differentiates this watch from most of its contemporaries.
This is a watch that has clearly had elocution lessons, is well-versed in etiquette and will look suitable at a variety of social engagements. Is it an example of gentrification? Quite possibly. Certainly, with Bentley, Lamborghini, Porsche, Range Rover, etc successfully gentrifying the sports utility vehicle, there is a strong argument for applying the same technique to watchmaking.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: Atelier Holgur Frømand
- Case: Grade 5 titanium, diameter 40 mm, height 13.5 mm, water resistance 30 ATM (300 metres), sapphire crystal to the front and an exhibition case back
- Functions: hours and minutes, small seconds at 6 o’clock
- Movement: Schwarz-Etienne ASE 200 for Atelier Holgur, self-winding movement, frequency 21,600 vph (3 Hz), 33 jewels, power reserve 86 hour
- Strap: supplied with two straps made with tide ocean material® (recycled ocean plastic), a ‘daily wear strap’ and a ‘diving single loop strap’
- Price 8,850 CHF excluding local taxes (RRP as of 26.10.2022)
- Limited Edition: 100 pieces