Bell & Ross BR 03-93 GMT Watch Review
The Bell & Ross BR 03-93 GMT shares the same name as its predecessor yet it looks very different. The firm has equipped this latest model with a new Coca-Cola style bidirectional bezel and swapped the orange details, found on the former watch, for smatterings of red. This timepiece may not sound much different from the previous version, however, by adopting these seemingly minor changes, Bell & Ross has enhanced the model’s functionality and reinforced the brand’s reputation for making distinctive watches.
Bell & Ross BR 01 – launched in 2005
When the Bell & Ross BR 01 burst onto the watch scene in 2005, it looked very different from any of its rivals. Inspired by aviation and sharing a similar appearance to cockpit instruments, the model comprised of a circular dial within a square case. Measuring 46mm in diameter the case proportions were definitely on-trend at the time. However, the watch-buying public’s affection for oversized watches would eventually wane. Bell & Ross went on to release a smaller version of its popular aviation-themed watch, the BR 03, measuring 42 mm.
The release of the BR 03 proved a shrewd decision on the brand’s part and has since attracted legions of fans. Bell & Ross has continued to demonstrate its business acumen again and again by enlarging its portfolio of 42mm models. In recent years it has released a myriad of vibrantly hued dials, different case finishes and various complications.
Bell & Ross BR 03 GMT – the first version released in 2007
With its aviation-themed looks, it seemed eminently sensible to release a dual-time or GMT model, sating the needs of frequent flyers needing to simultaneously juggle ‘local time’ and ‘home time’. The addition of a fourth hand with a prominent tip as well as a bezel marked with a 24-hour scale makes the GMT the perfect travel companion. Bell & Ross released its first GMT watch in 2007, the BR 03-51 GMT Titanium. Thereafter, it would go on to release additional variants, including a carbon version (2013), a couple of ‘Vintage’ V2 models and, most pertinently in this instance, the Bell & Ross BR 03-93 GMT in 2016.
Since its release, the Bell & Ross BR 03-93 GMT has always been a popular reference within the brand’s catalogue. Housed in a 42mm steel case, sporting both satin-finished and polished surfaces, it featured a black dial and a silver-toned fixed bezel. Despite the passage of time, the watch, in my opinion, continues to look attractive.
Bell & Ross BR 03-93 GMT – updated model (2021)
However, the Parisian brand clearly has other ideas. It has just updated the Bell & Ross BR 03-93 GMT. The new model’s name remains unchanged, but it looks noticeably different. Where the previous model had the occasional soupçon of orange on the dial, the new model supplants these tones in favour of red hues. But most of all, it’s the arrival of a new bezel that represents the biggest change.
The almost monochromatic appearance of the former model’s bezel bows out in favour of a new Coca-Cola-style bezel. The red and black bezel shades indicate whether the home time is day or night. In addition, the bezel is wider, thereby imbuing the watch with a sturdier appearance. The bezel is no longer fixed, but bidirectional, allowing the wearer to use it for indicating the time in a third timezone.
The advent of the new Bell & Ross BR 03-93 GMT provides an interesting case study for other brands to examine. By changing the bezel specification and swapping the odd smattering of orange on the dial in favour of red tones, Bell & Ross has managed to create a watch that looks wholly different from its predecessor. The resultant model proffers additional functionality looks fabulous and upholds the brand’s reputation for making distinctive watches.
Brand’s press release (2021)
Bell & Ross and the GMT function
Horologically speaking, the GMT function was first developed to meet with both the needs and specifications of aviators and especially pilots. The acronym GMT is used to indicate a second time zone but not necessarily from Greenwich. This complication has since been popularized and is nowadays commonly used by travellers.
Bell & Ross has made aviation, particularly aeronautical instruments, its speciality. Its designs very often match specifications created by professional users.
In 2007, the brand launched its 1st GMT Instrument, the BR 03‐51 GMT TITANIUM. Two complications at the service of the long‐haul traveller: a second time zone and a large date for optimum readability. The use of high‐tech materials like brushed titanium for the case and carbon fibre for the dial optimizes the watch performances. A carbon version was released later in 2013.
This complication has subsequently been chosen to equip the Vintage series. Following on from the BR V2‐93 GMT 24H launched in 2018, Bell & Ross has completed its range of watches targeted at modern frequent travellers ‐ both professionals and civilians ‐ in search of a chic and functional timepiece.
The BR V2‐93 GMT Blue – launched in 2020 and picked by Air France pilots – adorns a galvanic blue sunray dial as a nod to the world of air travel and long transatlantic trips, while the second‐hand counterweight is subtly styled in the shape of an aircraft.
2021 is the year of further strengthening the bond with its core business and 1st passion, Aviation. It is also the year Bell & Ross rethinks its GMT Instrument and launches a new version.
The international traveller’s instrument
True to its iconic square flagship model, the new BR 03‐93 GMT replaces the existing version. Redesigned, more modern, more functional, more readable. This “tool watch” goes back to basics in terms of design and shape which were influenced by two keywords: functionality and legibility.
An indispensable tool for aircraft pilots and an ally for globetrotters, but it is also useful for those who are currently experiencing to keep track of multiple time zones simultaneously. Certainly, useful when travelling between different time zones, this function is worth having if your activity occurs in different time zones. It is the ultimate utilitarian tool watch when working remotely and wanting to stay in sync with an overseas office or when you need to schedule meetings across time zones.
Pride of place goes to readability & functionality
Its black sunray dial contrasts with its large white photoluminescent numerals and indexes. This colour scheme is ingrained in Bell & Ross’ DNA. It echoes the colours used for on‐board flight instruments. Cockpits are in fact dominated by black, which prevents reflections, and white, which guarantees optimal reading.
This new updated version differs in many ways from its predecessor. The new BR 03‐93 GMT timepiece provides the time in three different locations around the world.
How does it work? The GMT hand now stands out with its large red triangle which is perfectly visible both day and night. Spinning around the dial in 24 hours, this fourth hand displays a second time zone (or the local time on a 24‐hour scale). For the first time, the iconic square shape is completed with a bi‐directional bezel. The BR 03 case was specifically modified to welcome this new functional bezel. It enables the reading of the second time zone, but it can also show a third time zone. Rotating it clockwise subtracts hours and anti‐clockwise adds hours.
The bezel ‐ which borrows the same colour combination as the dial ‐ is equipped with a 24‐hour scale graduation. Bell & Ross has opted for Black & Red‐hot hues. Red is known for its frank, clear and dynamic properties. While the red section indicates daytime, the black backgrounds nighttime. Thus, the two‐tone bezel provides a visual contrast / effect for discerning time reading and is made of anodized aluminium.
