Bell & Ross BR 05 Chrono
The new Bell & Ross BR 05 Chrono perpetuates the round dial, square case combination which the brand has made its own. The BR 05 encompasses a few more curves than the BR 03, but the family likeness is clear to see. Look closely at the dial and case and you will see numerous details, no doubt the product of protracted thought. The addition of a chronograph augments the appeal of the BR 05.
When Bruno Belamich and Carlos Rosillo established their company, Bell & Ross in 1992, they set in place ‘four design principles’. These fundamental brand pillars, including ‘performance’, ‘precision’, ‘readability’ and ‘water-resistance’ have always been at the heart of the brand’s creations.
While Bell & Ross has produced comparatively conventional round watches, it is synonymous with square timepieces. In 1995, the company released its first square watch, the BR 01, a design influenced by the appearance of aeronautical instruments. The highly original design language of the BR01 immediately set it apart from other watches.
At the time of launch, the BR 01, measuring 46mm in diameter, was on-trend, pandering to the prevailing affection for oversized watches. However, like many trends they have a tendency to come and go, hence oversized watches became passé. Shrewdly, Bell & Ross predicted this change and went on to release the BR 03, housed in a 42mm case.
Over the years, the creative types in the brand’s Paris HQ have conceived numerous versions of the BR 03, encompassing different colours, dial patterns and varying degrees of luminescence. Moreover, Bell & Ross has also released BR 03 models endowed with different complications and even a divers’ watch which has proved very popular.
In 2019, the luxury marque unveiled the BR 05 featuring an integrated bracelet.
The round dial, square case combination of the BR 03 is much in evidence, however, the BR 05’s case edges are more rounded and softer, especially where the caseband flows into the bracelet. Four decorative screws adorn the bezel and the crown nuzzles between the broad shoulders of a crown protector. And yet, while some elements exhibit robustness, the BR 05 looks quite dressy and would readily befit a suit and tie ensemble.
This year, the aforementioned creative types in Paris have been burning the midnight oil. In the last 12 months, several new variants of the BR 05 have been released. Bi-metallic, gold and skeleton are just some of the recent releases to excite ardent watch fans, not to mention numerous BR 03 novelties as well. Indeed, my Gmail inbox has groaned under the weight of numerous Bell & Ross press releases.
Now, there’s a new kid in town, the Bell & Ross BR 05 Chrono. Similar to the BR 03 chronograph models, this new Bell & Ross composition features a bi-compax dial layout. This new approach makes the dial appear more balanced and cohesive when contrasted with a tri-compax design. The dial of the Bell & Ross BR 05 Chrono is rich in detail. For example, the counters are square with rounded corners, emulating the shape of the case. The track framing each counter is presented in a contrasting hue and at a different height. Both the hour and minute hands and corresponding indexes have rounded tips, while the indexes are capsule-shaped. Lastly, the chronograph pushers fuse with the crown protectors, creating a neat, unobtrusive aesthetic.
The brand’s press release (October 2020)
The time for urban explorers
A leading benchmark in the aviation watch landscape with its iconic square models inspired by flight instruments, Bell & Ross is extending its new BR 05 collection designed for urban explorers.
Unquestioningly faithful to the brand’s watchwords of legibility, functionality, reliability and precision on which Bell & Ross has built its prestigious reputation, the BR 05 collection is now being enriched with a chronograph of style and technical complexity fit perfectly in a resolutely urban setting.
The chronograph function
A new icon by Bell & Ross, the BR 05 is now equipped with a chronograph movement – a mechanical complication perfectly adapted to the pace of urban life. Invented to measure and control short time periods, this function is a loyal ally for those who wear it in their quest to master the fleeting nature of time.
The lines of its 42-mm case combine round and square, the basic geometric shapes which form the identity of the Bell & Ross brand.
The jewel of strength
The BR 05 chronograph is the latest jewel of masculinity from Bell & Ross: full of character with carefully executed finishes, this sculptural and seductive instrument is chic and powerful, exuding strength and elegance.
The finishes on the BR 05 chronograph leave nothing to chance: the satin-polished surfaces are perfectly flat and the polished bevels enhance the volumes they contain. Perfection hides in the details, as the saying goes. The BR 05 chronograph’s identity is also built on a multitude of small technical and aesthetic details which truly elevate it.
The integrated design
The new BR 05 chronograph belongs to the family of watches with an integrated bracelet, featuring the same design where the case and bracelet are fused into one cohesive piece.
“The case and bracelet form one unit” explains Bruno Belamich, the brand’s Creative Director. ” This type of design harks back to a category of watches which appeared in the 1970s and when infused with Bell & Ross’ signature identity, the resulting graphic style is both striking and modern.”
The angle of the attachment to the bracelet has been carefully designed to follow the contours of the wrist, ensuring a secure and comfortable fit all day long, in any situation. The pushers, crown-guard and crown form a single piece which is perfectly incorporated into the volume of the case. By blending fluidity and robustness, the continuity of the lines of this piece becomes a part of its identity.
The legibility
Another signature of its personality, the dial on the BR 05 chronograph ensures optimal legibility thanks to its graphics and its contrasts.
Mid-way between round and square, another subtle reference to the 1970s, the shape of its two snailed counters (chronograph minute counter at 9 o’clock and small seconds at 3 o’clock), gives the new BR05 a neo-retro look which in no way diminishes its modernity.
Available in navy blue or jet black, the dials give each piece an urban, sporty style. Featuring an integrated steel bracelet, the BR 05 chronograph is also available with a blue or black rubber strap offering a truly stylish alternative.
Further reading