Biver Automatique ‘Echoes of this Moment’ Watch Review
The Biver Automatique ‘Echoes of this Moment’ is a unique piece created by the eponymous watch brand in collaboration with Swiss artist Guillaume Ehinger. Made for the forthcoming TimeForArt charity auction, this watch unites Haute Horlogerie with incredible artisanal know-how. US-based writer, Meehna Goldsmith begins by talking about Biver, the Swiss marque, founded by father and son team, Jean-Claude and Pierre Biver. After that, Meehna looks closely at the no-compromise execution of this one-of-a-kind creation.
Biver watch
Jean-Claude Biver is a titan of the Swiss watch industry; a nimble turnaround artist who reinvigorated brands such as Blancpain, Omega, Hublot and TAG Heuer. After 43 years in the industry, he retired as the President of LVMH Watch Division in 2018. Although Biver stepped away from his corporate duties, we knew this passionate horophile would return with a surprise. And so he did with the launch of the eponymous brand Biver with his son Pierre in 2023.
Image – Pierre Biver (left) and Jean-Claude Biver (right) – Photographie Sébastien Agnetti
Biver Carillon Tourbillon
For its first act, Biver came charging out of the gates with a grand complication: the Carillon Tourbillon. This watch combined two of the most highly intricate and demanding complications: a minute repeater and tourbillon. Instead of the usual two gongs and two hammers, the minute repeater function featured three gongs and three hammers, enriching the sound and volume. Adding even more complexity, the automatic movement incorporated a bi-directional micro-rotor along with a zero-reset mechanism, technical feats unto themselves. Not satisfied with presenting just one model, Biver offered the Carillon in a variety of configurations, including gem-set cases, guilloché dials and stone dials.
Image – Biver Carillon Tourbillon Titanium Sodalite
Biver Automatique
Following on the heels of the Carillon Tourbillon, Biver released the Biver Automatique, a three-hander that pares down time to the most beautiful essentials. Like its older sibling, the Biver Automatique comes dressed in different styles. Offered in a solid 18K white or rose gold dial, each is paired with a platinum or 18K rose gold case, respectively. In addition, the Biver Automatique comes in an Atelier Series, a limited number of watches featuring stone dials.
Image – Biver Automatique Atelier Series Obsidian
Biver x Guillaume Ehinger
In the first collaboration for the brand, Biver has partnered with Swiss artist Guillaume Ehinger to produce a unique piece for TimeForArt, the only watch auction that directly supports contemporary art around the world. Called “Echoes of this Moment”, the collaboration marries a stainless steel case with a handmade enamel dial.
Image – Guillaume Ehinger
Ehinger is an abstract painter who mostly depicts landscape scenes. He uses colour, movement and geometry to hint at something figurative, but leaves it to the viewer to interpret. He’s interested in how nature, time and memory mingle without leaving crisp pictures behind. Pierre Biver describes Guillaume’s paintings as having an emotional depth and a commitment to craft that mirrors the philosophy behind Biver watches.
Biver Automatique ‘Echoes of this Moment’ – dial and case
The Automatique case with its arched lugs and concave bezel provides the perfect canvas to show off the reversed finishing styles: the tops and sides of the lugs, as well as the sides of the case, are brightly polished and the facets and bezel are brushed in contrast to the original Automatique. This strategy ensures eyes remain focused on the spectacular dial.
Created with Ehinger and inspired by his artwork, the dial starts with a solid 18K white gold dial plate, which is then hand-engraved with a rippling pattern. After the engraving is finished, multiple layers of coloured enamel are applied giving the dial a shimmery appearance. When light reflects from it, the effect emulates the surface of a lake at sunset with its red, pink and grey tones. The hands, formed of 18K white gold, are satin-finished and hand bevelled with interior angles. They circle the scene, completing the picture. The idea is that since the viewer won’t see the same view twice, each glance is its own elusive moment enjoyed.
“I think a lot about scale in my work,” says Ehinger. “A great image can be read from far away and is pleasing to look at, but as you get closer it reveals more and shows you more detail.”
Biver Automatique ‘Echoes of this Moment’ – Calibre JCB-003
This charity watch uses the proprietary Calibre JCB-003 with a 65-hour power reserve. It’s decorated the same as the Biver Automatique with Clous de Paris engraving and chamfered angles. Where it differs is the 22K gold micro-rotor is engraved with the watch’s name and Ehinger’s signature. The watch secures to the wrist with a cotton and Alcantara strap, along with a stainless steel pin buckle.
Biver Automatique ‘Echoes of this Moment’ – closing remarks
The Biver Automatique ‘Echoes of this Moment’ combines artisanal craft and technique in a beautiful rendition. By partnering with Ehinger, Biver not only stays on theme but also creates its own work of contemporary art, expressed in horological form.
Created in support of TimeforArt, this unique piece will be sold at the forthcoming charity auction, taking place at Phillips in New York City on 7 December at 3:00 PM ET. The watch carries an estimate of $60,000-120,000 and will be available to view during the auction preview happening on 4 – 6 December at Phillips New York (432 Park Ave, New York, NY 10022).