Breguet Reine de Naples 8918 Watch Review
The Breguet Reine de Naples 8918 is the latest feminine timepiece to bear the name of the greatest watchmaker of all time, Abraham-Louis Breguet. Embracing mint green hues, enriched with a plethora of diamonds and incorporating cutting-edge silicon movement parts, there are many reasons to admire this ladies’ watch. US-based Meehna Goldsmith looks back at Caroline Murat, the Breguet client who had the idea for a wristworn watch, before exploring the composition of this modern-day expression of Haute Horlogerie.
Caroline Murat (1782-1839)
Just in time for Spring and International Women’s Day, Breguet unveiled a new iteration of the oldest wristwatch design in the world: the Reine de Naples. Presented in a delicious minty green, the watch combines Haute Horlogerie tradition with modern design. The introduction is particularly appropriate as the idea for the timepiece came from Caroline Murat, Napoleon Bonaparte’s younger sister.
A bold and progressive figure, Murat possessed a keen intellect, supported the arts and was part of the literary culture of the day. Not one to sit back and luxuriate in her noble position, she engaged in economic, social and educational issues. In a time when education wasn’t a priority for young women, Murat created schools for young girls. In addition, she was a watch collector with exquisite taste. If you’d peeked in her jewellery box, you would have found 30 pieces, one of which would have stood out from the rest: the Reine de Naples wristwatch.
The first wristwatch (1810)
In the early 19th century, the thought of wearing a watch on the wrist wasn’t even on the radar. Men used pocket watches and women turned their timepieces into jewellery, wearing them as sautoir necklaces. Then, in 1810, Murat was struck with an idea. Why not wear a watch on the wrist? She sought out Abraham-Louis Breguet, the most noted and inventive horologist of the day, to bring her vision to life. He delivered the timepiece named the Reine de Naples two years later in 1812.
Unfortunately, Murat’s Reine de Naples is lost to history. Perhaps it will reappear, discovered in someone’s dusty attic, and certainly that would be a treat. Until then, we’re lucky to still have the original design, which is just as relevant and avant-garde as it was when originally created. In fact, Breguet’s archives note the history of the vanished watch from its inception to its visit to the workshops for repair in 1849 and 1855. To this day, Breguet keeps the records of its pieces so their history can be traced.
Breguet Reine de Naples 8918 – mint green dial
The new mint Reine de Naples is a real dazzler. Its distinctive and feminine design immediately catches the eye. Not many watches can be recognised from across the room, but the Reine de Naples achieves this feat elegantly without being ostentatious.
The colour green is a popular choice, gracing the dials of watches from many brands, but the hue on the Reine de Naples is something I’ve never seen before. It’s soft and inviting, suggesting tranquility and contemplation. Green also represents nature, hope, optimism and good health.
Filled with this mesmerising minty green, the stylised Breguet numerals are something to behold. They are completely unique, encompassing many refined particulars. Breguet achieves the two-dimensional depth of the numerals by mixing two shades of green. Notice the use of swooping lines and graceful angles that beckon further discovery. Black can be a harsh colour when used to outline or frame, but this black plays deference and is in service to the indices, allowing them to shine and accentuating their shape.
The indices glow against a shimmery mother-of-pearl dial, while a chapter ring composed of diamonds, set using the snow technique, adds lustre and sparkle to the composition. The number underneath the Breguet signature between 11 and 12 o’clock is specific to each Reine de Naples timepiece, a historical tradition that allows for meticulous record keeping and also guarantees authenticity. I love how the typeface of the number designation keeps the design language cohesive with its elegant contours. The curve of the ‘N’ is a delicious detail that seems to cradle the mark.
The minty green Reine de Naples incorporates a lot of the style language developed by Abraham-Louis Breguet himself. The black minutes track is embellished with symbols inspired by those seen on Breguet’s pocket watches. And then there’s the glorious blued Breguet open-tipped hands to remind one of the time.
Breguet Reine de Naples 8918 diamonds
A pear-shaped diamond alights at 6 o’clock. I’m not sure the creative team planned this vision, but the arrangement of the minute track and diamond resemble a sautoir necklace, a wonderful historical nod to the days before Murat envisioned women wearing a watch round the wrist. Sometimes serendipity has a lovely way of dropping little unexpected gifts. Adding further glow to the dial, the flange and bezel are encircled with 117 diamonds. The diamond theme continues to the crown, embedded with a briolette-cut diamond and located at 4 o’clock, while the matching green alligator strap fastens with a folding clasp featuring 28 brilliant-cut diamonds.
Breguet Reine de Naples 8918 – case and movement
Measuring 36.5 mm x 28.45 mm and crafted in 18K white gold, the ovoid case hosts another Breguet signature: a fluted caseband. Inside beats the 191 component calibre 537/3, a self-winding movement with a 45-hour power reserve. Since Breguet sat at the watch bench, movement technology has brought advances that improve precision and reliability. Instead of the common (but still effective) metallic balance spring and metallic Swiss lever escapement, the Reine de Naples utilises those same components but crafted in silicon. This material resists corrosion and wear and is also impervious to magnetic fields which can wreak havoc with precise timekeeping.
If you can peel your eyes from the dial, you’ll discover even more details on the reverse. Through the sapphire-crystal case back, you’ll see the swing of the platinum weight that winds the barrel and keeps the watch ticking. Côtes de Genève, a traditional decorative technique, graces the movement, which is further embellished with polished screws and chamfering. In order to ensure the watch and case belong together, the unique number on the front is repeated on the back, engraved around the rim of the case. Every element of the Reine de Naples is thoughtful and contributes to the artistic whole, even the screws that secure the case are arranged for maximum visual pleasure.
Breguet Reine de Naples 8918 – closing remarks
The minty green Reine de Naples is a beguiling watch, rich in tradition yet modern in its presentation and execution. It’s a timepiece that’s a star for almost every occasion and one that would surely bring a smile to Caroline Murat’s lips.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: Breguet Reine de Naples 8918
- Reference: 8918BB5D964D0
- Case: 18K white gold, dimensions 36.5 mm x 28.45 mm, height 10.1 mm, water resistance 3 ATM (30m), sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes
- Movement: Calibre 537/3; self-winding movement; frequency 25,200 vph (3.5 Hz); power reserve 45 hours.
- Strap: mint green alligator leather strap, triple-blade folding clasp set with 28 brilliant-cut diamonds
- Price: £46,600 (RRP as of 21.4.2024)