Breguet Tradition Quantieme Retrograde 7597 Regal Monochrome Watch Review
The Breguet Tradition Quantieme Retrograde 7597 Regal Monochrome builds upon the success of two models released in 2020, both of which were equipped with a silvered dial. In this instance, the off-centre hand-guilloché dial is presented in a bewitching shade of blue. Meehna Goldsmith examines this timepiece, a creation inspired by the souscription pocket watch of 1797.
Breguet Tradition 7027 (released in 2005)
Introduced in 2005, the Tradition 7027 was a departure from Breguet’s usual offerings. In fact, it was quite modern in its concept and execution, especially for a brand known for more conservative, classical styles. Instead of numerous movement components being visible at the rear of the watch, the 7027 displayed the mechanics on the dial side of the main plate. This was the first time in the modern era that such a design was seen and it caused quite a stir.
Souscription watch
When conceiving the Tradition 7027, Breguet delved into the archives and found inspiration from the “souscription” pocket watch made by the company’s founder Abraham-Louis Breguet, which debuted in 1797. He designed this piece to be a more affordable alternative to his usual bespoke offerings worn by the likes of Caroline Murat, Queen Of Naples and Alexandre I of Russia. Back then the “souscription” cost approximately £600, with 25% due as a down payment when subscribing and the balance paid upon the watch’s completion. If only a Breguet were available for this modest sum today!
The architecture of the Tradition collection has mostly stayed the same, with the dial at 12 o’clock and the barrel in the middle of the plate. Located at 4 o’clock, the balance wheel, which employs Breguet’s pare-chute shock-absorbing system, sits opposite another wheel positioned at 8 o’clock, contributing to the overall symmetry of the dial.
Breguet Tradition Quantième Retrograde 7597 (released in 2020)
Over the years, Breguet has introduced different iterations of the Tradition. In 2020, it released the Breguet Tradition Quantieme Retrograde 7597 with a silvered dial, adding the complication of a retrograde date. Situated in the bottom half of the dial, the date adds another dimension to the aesthetics. The arcing swoop of the indicator also makes the watch look like it’s offering a big smile, which is a nice bonus to have when you’re consulting the time and/or date.
Breguet Tradition Quantieme Retrograde 7597 Regal Monochrome – retrograde date mechanism
To accommodate the extra height of the retrograde date mechanism, Breguet developed a multi-level hand that sweeps counterclockwise over the numbers before snapping back to 1 at the end of each month. Notice that the numerals alternate between silver-toned powdered transfers and gold cabochons, conferring sharp visibility and obviating the need to squint. To change the date manually, unscrew the pusher located at 10 o’clock and press down. The pointer will advance by one day every time the pusher is pressed.
This newly released addition to the Tradition collection, the Breguet Quantieme Retrograde 7597 Regal Monochrome, adds to the winning formula with a dress change. The dial is monochrome blue with the retrograde date presented in a matching shade, along with an anthracite-coated movement. Zoom in on the dial crafted from gold and you’ll see the hand-guilloché ‘Clous de Paris’ motif, Roman numerals and open-tipped hands.
Breguet Tradition Quantieme Retrograde 7597 Regal Monochrome – in-house 505Q self-winding movement
Turn over the watch to see the rest of Breguet’s in-house 505Q self-winding movement. You know it’s an automatic movement by the swing of the gold rotor, whose shape harks back to the perpétuelle watch Abraham-Louis Breguet created in 1780. The movement features silicon horns and an inverted lever escapement. The balance wheel also incorporates a silicon balance spring. Silicon is a modern material known for its anti-magnetic properties and resistance to corrosion and wear. Moreover, it delivers superior precision. The movement features 269 components and has a power reserve of 50 hours.
Breguet Tradition Quantieme Retrograde 7597 Regal Monochrome – closing thoughts
The new Breguet Tradition Quantieme Retrograde 7597 Regal Monochrome comes in a 40mm white gold case and affixes to the wrist with a midnight blue alligator strap secured by a white gold pin buckle which matches the case. Another nod to tradition, and a Breguet signature, is the coin-edged fluting around the side of the case. With this new colour combination, the brand expands the options for this traditional watch that has a distinctly modern flair. And that’s definitely something to smile about.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: Breguet Tradition Quantieme Retrograde 7597 Regal Monochrome
- Reference: 7597BB/GY/9WU
- Case: White gold; diameter 40 mm; height 12.10mm; water resistance 3ATM (30m); sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back.
- Functions: Hours; minutes; retrograde date
- Movement: Calibre 505Q; self-winding movement; frequency 21,600 vph (3Hz); power reserve 50 hours.
- Strap: Midnight blue alligator leather strap paired with a white gold pin buckle.
- Price: £33,600 (RRP as of 31.5.2022)