Breitling Navitimer Caliber 01 Limited 2014 release
Angus Davies provides an in-depth review of the Breitling Navitimer Caliber 01 Limited, a watch containing a Manufacture movement with a column-wheel and vertical coupling. This model is limited to 2000 pieces only and unusually for a Navitimer features a sapphire caseback.
The perils of flipping a watch
Like many watch collectors, I have sold a timepiece in order to mitigate the capital outlay needed to acquire a newfound horological love. In a moment of impetuous foolishness, I’ve parted with many watches only to later regret my actions.
Once again, I am reminded of this with the arrival of a factory-fresh Breitling Navitimer Caliber 01 Limited. The watch has been kindly loaned to me by the Swiss brand for a few days of evaluation. A few years ago I owned a Navitimer World and, crazily, I sold it, reverting to type and exhibiting the watch collecting foibles I thought I had under control.
Breitling Navitimer love
I have therefore decided to make two rules for myself. I am a person obsessed with rules as a recent couch session revealed. Firstly, I will never sell any watches again, just acquire more. Secondly, after completing this article I will try not to mention spurned horological partners from my past, albeit I suspect this second rule may prove to be a challenge.
The Breitling Navitimer Caliber 01 Limited, at first glance, looks very similar to the Navitimer World I once owned. However, close examination reveals many differences.
Image – Breitling Navitimer 1952 model
Breitling has not abandoned the design language of the cult watch, favoured by pilots since its inaugural flight. The Breitling Navitimer Caliber 01 Limited may be one of the latest models from Breitling but it respects the legend of the original 1952 model.
Breitling Navitimer Caliber 01 Limited – dial
The tri-compax layout of the Navitimer Caliber 01 Limited doffs its hat to the 1952 original. Moreover, whereas the subdials of my former Navitimer World were positioned at 6 o’clock, 9 o’clock and noon, the new model reverts to subdials at 3 o’clock, 6 o’clock and 9 o’clock in common with the first Navitimer.
The Breitling logo and nomen are positioned below noon and the resultant layout delivers superb symmetry and balance.
There are many subtle details to the dial which enhance its form. The logo and hour markers are applied. The latter, as well as the hour and minute hands, feature luminescent coating which exhibits a green emission in all but the brightest light. I particularly like the green glow making its presence known during daylight hours, it aids legibility and enhances the visual appearance of the dial. The subdials are snailed and share the same proportions. A 30-minute chronograph register resides at 3 o’clock, a 12-hour chronograph register is located at 6 o’clock and a small seconds display features at 9 o’clock. They are small, neat, but eminently legible.
A date aperture is positioned between 4 o’clock and 5 o’clock and the date is presented in red text against a white background. Because this is an integrated movement, the date disc sits close to the dial surface, enhancing ease of read-off. Navitimer tradition dictates that the “slide rule” is a pre-requisite which should feature on all models. I accept that many wearers will not use the function, although it is actually quite useful once you have become accustomed to how it works. Moreover, it reaffirms the watches status as an instrument for the professional.
The red central chronograph seconds hand not only looks resplendent but is eye-catching and simple to read. It features a Breitling “B” counterweight at the opposite end to its tip, providing a flourish of style, albeit purists will argue it represents a departure from the 1952 model.
There is a palpable sense of quality with this watch. The dial of the Navitimer is made using the “épargne” process which involves forming the dial on a solid silver or gold base, dependent on the model. The result is a dial imbued with an exquisite vivacity.
Legibility is a notable attribute of this particular Navitimer Caliber 01 Limited, delivered with a stunning “mercury silver” dial. It could be argued that its clarity is usurped by its black dial siblings, but I particularly like the appearance of the silver hue and this would be my preferred choice.
Breitling Navitimer Caliber 01 Limited – case
Appearances can be deceptive. The Navitimer Caliber 01 Limited measures 43 mm in diameter, 1 mm greater than the non-limited Navitimer. However, it looks smaller on the wrist, appearing more like a 40 mm – 41 mm case. This is not meant as a criticism, but rather an observation. The result is a “neat” character. I am conscious I have used the word “neat” before, it is a term that readily springs to mind with daily wear.
Highly polished surfaces ubiquitously adorn the case. Experience with the Navitimer World showed that scratches were difficult to remove at home compared with a satin brushed case. However, I still find the shiny surfaces seduce me every time, and I think a few superficial marks add to the character of the watch.
The crenellated bezel is bi-directional and simple to adjust, courtesy of its superbly tactile, and easy to grip, fluted flanks. A further clue that this is an integrated chronograph movement is provided by the pushpieces and crown. The pushpieces are positioned on the same horizontal plane as the crown, indicating that this is definitely not a modular movement.
Breitling has provided the ultimate proof of the model’s column-wheel credentials by fitting this Navitimer with an exhibition caseback. Delivered in majestic form, the column-wheel featuring six pillars, basks in my adoring gaze. I can’t pretend otherwise, I am smitten with this sight.
My Navitimer World had a solid caseback with various conversion charts engraved on its form. This limited edition Navitimer, unusually has a sapphire caseback, a pleasing deviation from “normal” Navitimers. While some may bemoan the variation from the traditional solid caseback of the 1952 original, I do not fall into this category. I liken it to a trait displayed by many men, where there is an urge to lift the car bonnet merely to admire the engine. Indeed, I like to see the motor within a watch and in the case of the Caliber 01, it is especially appealing.
The press-loan watch was supplied on a brown Barenia leather strap. I had an identical strap affixed to my Navitimer World and it provided excellent service for several years. Initially, the leather may feel stiff, but with repeated wear it softens and affords a very comfortable fit.
Breitling Navitimer Caliber 01 Limited – movement
Breitling has long been associated with chronographs, but the advent of the Caliber 01 spelt a new chapter in the brand’s history. The chronograph movement, first revealed in 2009, was the company’s first Manufacture chronograph movement. It is made in a dedicated facility in La Chaux-de-Fonds, a city in the Jura mountains which is synonymous with fine watchmaking.
The creation of a new movement from scratch is not for the faint-hearted and necessitates huge investment running into millions of Swiss Francs. Nevertheless, I am glad Breitling took this courageous step because the outcome is magnificent.
I have repeatedly looked through my Burgeon loupe and enjoyed the pleasure of seeing the vertical clutch interface with the column wheel. A vertical clutch is perhaps not quite as visually exciting as a horizontal coupling, but it is still wonderful to observe in operation.
The push pieces have a very positive feel to them and there is no discernible stuttering of the central seconds chronograph hand as the stop-watch is actuated. I have come across other column-wheel chronographs where the push pieces require only a soupçon of pressure to make them work, whereas the Breitling does require a little more pressure to initiate the chronograph functions. Nevertheless, the overall feel is very pleasing.
The Caliber 01 is self-winding, granting much convenience for those individuals with hectic lifestyles. The movement has a frequency of 28,800 vph (4 Hz), contains 47 jewels and has a power reserve in excess of 70 hours. In particular, the number of jewels and the power reserve are particularly noteworthy. Moreover, the watch is a chronometer with COSC certification.
Breitling Navitimer Caliber 01 Limited – closing thoughts
I have a mixture of emotions with the Breitling Navitimer Caliber 01 Limited. On one hand, I love the history, the sight of the column wheel, especially as I press the pushpieces, the exhibition caseback, the dial, the strap.…everything, in fact.
Regrettably, I also feel a sense of sadness. This timepiece causes me to lament selling my Navitimer World with its iconic status and many notable attributes.
Nevertheless, with a blank canvas and no Navitimer in my collection, I would probably choose the Breitling Navitimer Caliber 01 Limited, arguably the finest iteration of this legendary watch.
Technical Specification
- Model: Breitling Navitimer Caliber 01 Limited
- Reference: AB012312 / G756
- Case: Stainless steel; diameter 43.00 mm; water resistant to 3 bar (30 metres); sapphire crystal to front and caseback.
- Functions: Hours; minutes; small seconds; date; chronograph.
- Movement: Caliber 01; self-winding movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz); 47 jewels; Power reserve over 70 hours.
- Strap: Brown Barenia leather strap with stainless steel pin buckle.
- Limited Edition: 2000 pieces
- Price: £6280 (as of 14.3.2014)