Carl F. Bucherer Manero Peripheral Watch Review
Angus Davies enjoys a period of ‘hands-on’ association with the Carl F. Bucherer Manero Peripheral Ref. 00.10917.03.33.01, an automatic watch featuring a peripheral oscillating mass.
This detailed review of the Carl F. Bucherer Manero Peripheral includes live images, specification details and pricing.
As we look ahead, just outside the focal point of our gaze, a mass of data is captured by our peripheral vision and processed by our brain into useful information. Most of the time this information is not used and is subsequently forgotten. However, this innate human facility often proves invaluable when potential dangers head into our path, such as a vehicle coming out of a minor road. The immediate danger is first recognised by our peripheral vision and, assuming evasive action is taken, the risk of potential harm is lessened. While our normal field of view is said to be circa 100°, with the benefit of peripheral vision this figure increases to approximately 170°. Quite simply, thanks to peripheral vision we see more.
Likewise, an external business consultant can provide much insight, viewing the operations of a company from the periphery, away from the day to day chaos which comes with employee status. Indeed, viewing a situation from the sidelines can sometimes provide a completely different perspective, eliciting much useful information and conferring a wonderful vision of what is actually taking place.
Earlier this year at Baselworld 2016, Carl. F. Bucherer unveiled a new timepiece, the Manero Peripheral, equipped with a new in-house self-winding movement, the caliber CFB A2050. Unusually, this watch features an oscillating mass which encircles the movement bridges, conveniently energising the mainspring when worn, while bestowing an unhindered view of the movement. On the face of it, by exploring the peripheral area of the movement, Carl. F. Bucherer has delivered a delightfully innovative approach to movement design. Moreover, the company from Lucerne has indulged the cravings of fellow purists, granting a spectacular view of numerous movement parts at play.
With my interest suitably piqued at Baselworld 2016, I contacted the Press department of Carl F. Bucherer and subsequently a drop-dead gorgeous version of the Manero Peripheral arrived, sporting a sultry black dial and gloriously warm 18-carat rose gold exterior.
The dial
The Carl F. Bucherer Manero Peripheral is available in six different variants. The prospective purchaser can choose between a white or black dial and 18-carat rose gold or stainless steel case options. With the stainless steel models, a stainless steel bracelet is offered as a hard-wearing alternative to a leather strap.
Prior to the press loan arriving, I would probably have favoured a white dial, appreciating the pure and clean persona this hue invariably delivers. However, when the press loan did arrive with its dark, brooding stare, I quickly succumbed to its luscious looks. The matte dial provides a beautiful backdrop for the gleaming, richly toned golden hands and indexes.
The faceted, dauphine style hour and minute hands beautifully articulate time with clear tone and graceful poise. The light always engages with at least one of the two facets on each hand, ensuring excellent legibility whenever there is available light. The absence of luminescent material does make it challenging to read the dial in absolute darkness. Nevertheless, this is a watch ideally suited for formal wear and, as such, a glowing face in dim light, would, in my opinion, seem a tad vulgar, hence vindicating the approach taken by the Swiss watch brand.
The small seconds display, positioned above 6 o’clock, is slightly recessed, heightening visual interest while doing nothing to inhibit ease of interpretation. The aperture at 3 o’clock, framed with a white border, reveals the date. The font of the date is classical in style, crisply presented in black text against a white background, proving very easy to read.
The case
At first I felt the 40.6mm case seemed slightly too small for my large, left wrist (measuring 22cm in circumference), but with increased familiarity I grew to accept the case dimensions. Furthermore, I concede that for the vast majority of would-be wearers the diameter of the Manero Peripheral would prove to be an optimal size.
Carl F. Bucherer should be commended for the styling of this case. Indeed, photographs fail to convey the fascinating array of sinuous lines, recesses and bevelled edges. The bezel has a concave surface which is only truly discerned with an inquisitive forefinger. The caseband employs curving lines which swoop inwards and then seem to step out near the leading edge of the lugs. This is a case you want to explore and appreciate.
Considering the modest size of the watch, the crown appears comparatively large, however, at no stage did it chafe my arm. In terms of its appearance, I did not take issue with its proportions and certainly found its scale conferred ease of adjustment.
Carl F. Bucherer is clearly proud of its new in-house movement and rightly so. It therefore seems appropriate that the Swiss maison has chosen to equip the Carl F. Bucherer Manero Peripheral with an exhibition caseback.
One of my favourite attributes of this watch relates to the reciprocity with light and the interesting shadows that readily form on its contoured case. There are few occasions when the bodywork of this timepiece can be seen without some pockets of shade populating its torso and heightening its visual allure.
The movement
The Manero Peripheral is the first Carl F. Bucherer model to be equipped with a movement from the new CFB A2000 family of calibres. The movement variant powering the Manero Peripheral is the Caliber CFB A2050. I recently attended a presentation about the new CFB A2000 family of calibres and can report that this is merely a foretaste of many more in-house movements to come.
When it comes to wristwatches, I appreciate the convenience of an automatic movement for daily wear. However, when it comes to horological voyeurism, I prefer viewing a hand-wound movement via an exhibition caseback and absorbing the spectacle of seeing many finely executed components within. The Carl F. Bucherer Manero Peripheral indulges both of my horological proclivities.
A few weeks ago, I reviewed the company’s Manero Flyback and raved about its many attributes. However, I did remark at the time that, ‘the movement is not the most aesthetically beautiful, lacking the exalted execution of the brand’s recently announced, CFB A2000 Caliber’. Well now, having spent much time admiring the Calibre CFB A2050 with a loupe in hand, I can affirm that this movement is, quite simply, gorgeous.
The bridges are adorned with Côtes de Genève motif which, in itself, is nothing unusual. However, each stripe is delivered with crisp definition. In addition, the bridges are very angular, with straight edges which appear slightly modern in appearance. The chamfered edge of each bridge gleams superbly, providing much visual contrast with the adjacent vertical and horizontal bridge surfaces. Circular grained wheels, together with polished jewel and screw sinks are just some of the movement details which illustrate the quality construction of the Calibre CFB A2050.
I freely admit that I am obsessive about watches and particularly movement finishing, hence this may explain why I positively drooled over the ratchet wheel, sporting the company’s logo at its centre and a spiral-shaped motif around its edge.
The movement features a free sprung balance which delivers a high degree of precision. The effective length of the hairspring never alters. Unlike most balance wheels, where the rate of the watch is altered by manipulating an index adjuster, the balance wheel on this movement features small weights which can be adjusted to vary the inertia of the balance.
The thoroughness of the approach by Carl F. Bucherer is particularly impressive. Instead of using screws affixed to the rim of the balance wheel, masselottes, or small weights, are located on each of the four spokes of the balance wheel. When the balance oscillates to and fro there is less turbulence because the weights are positioned in-board, aiding aerodynamics and, in so doing, augmenting precision. Indeed, accuracy is assured courtesy of chronometer certification.
Closing remarks
The Carl F. Bucherer Manero Peripheral is a superb timepiece. It looks handsome and lends itself to formal attire. The black dial and 18-carat rose gold case are, in my opinion, a very agreeable combination, delivering both an abundance of style and notable ease of read-off.
The modest size of the case gained my acceptance with time and for the average sized wearer will, no doubt, prove ideal. Where the case truly excels is with the intricacy of its form, conferring an abundance of visual interest, omnipresent pockets of beguiling shade and numerous contours which prove irresistible to curious fingers.
However, the pièce de résistance of this watch is the Calibre CFB A2050. It is truly exquisite, embellished with sublime movement finishing, interestingly styled bridges and an impressive free-sprung balance. By equipping the movement with a peripheral rotor, Carl F. Bucherer has granted the wearer with an unprecedented view of mechanical loveliness, an unrestricted sight seldom found with an automatic watch. It is the incredible horological panorama delivered with this timepiece which shows the value of peripheral vision.
Technical specification
- Model: Carl F. Bucherer Manero Peripheral
- Reference: 00.10917.03.33.01
- Case: 18-carat rose gold; diameter 40.6mm; height 11.2mm; water resistant to 3 bar (30 metres); sapphire crystal to front and caseback.
- Functions: Hours; minutes; small seconds; date.
- Movement: Caliber CFB A2050, self-winding movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz); 33 jewels; power reserve 55 hours.
- Strap: Black Louisiana alligator leather strap presented with a 18-carat rose gold pin buckle
- Price: CHF 16,900 (RRP as at 19.8.2016)