Carl F. Bucherer Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral Paradise
The Carl F. Bucherer Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral Paradise unites the Luzern-based brand’s ingenious peripheral tourbillon and peripheral oscillating weight with a plethora of baguette-cut gems. US-based journalist, Meehna Goldsmith, explores this rainbow watch in close detail.
Caliber CFB T3000
The Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral took a bow to great acclaim in 2018. It highlighted the brand’s CFB T3000, an in-house movement developed specifically to showcase the brand’s amazing peripheral systems: the automatic movement and the floating tourbillon.
Tourbillon Double Peripheral
I know what you’re thinking, I must have a picture of the wrong watch because there’s no rotor. I thought the same thing at first. There are several watches that employ a peripheral rotor system, some that highlight them as part of the aesthetics, but the Tourbillon Double Peripheral does the reverse and hides the mechanism.
I love the concept of a self-winding watch “without” a rotor. I’ll tell you why. A traditional rotor, mounted co-axial to the movement, blocks parts of the movement as it swings around. Even a micro rotor, which is a more costly execution, still takes up space on the plate or bridge that could otherwise highlight some finishing technique(s). With the Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral, Carl F. Bucherer has developed a peripheral winding system, relocating it around the rim of the movement.
Neither traditional nor flying
A tourbillon is a complicated and fascinating mechanism. A watch dial can be a very static affair. A sub-seconds running laps doesn’t add much movement or intrigue. But a tourbillon is another story. It does a circular dance to move the balance wheel through a 360-degree cycle every minute to compensate for timing errors caused by gravity. Most tourbillons fasten to the movement with a bridge. Another execution is a flying tourbillon that eschews the upper bridge, revealing more of the inner works.
What Carl F. Bucherer did was go a step further with the tourbillon to create an even grander vista. Neither traditional nor flying, the tourbillon on the Manero Tourbillon Paradise looks like it’s floating in the seascape of the dial. CFB achieves this illusion by mounting the tourbillon within a peripheral cage using three ball bearings. Moreover, the tourbillon has a stop seconds function for setting the watch precisely to the second, which most tourbillons don’t. Since tourbillons were fashioned and are sold on the promise of more accurate timing, a stop seconds should be a requirement. I find it ironic that most brands overlook this element.
Forty baguette-cut gems
The Carl F. Bucherer Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral Paradise not only has some impressive mechanics within, but has also been housed in several different 18K precious metal cases: yellow, rose and white gold. While elegant and sophisticated, the aesthetics are a bit conservative. The Paradise takes the rose gold rendition and dresses it up for an everyday party in a colourful bounty of jewels. The bezel dazzles with 40 baguette-cut gems, including tsavorites, sapphires, amethysts and rubies.
Although some companies use heat-treated gemstones to achieve a vibrant colour, Carl F. Bucherer only selects naturally occurring stones. The company has upped the level of difficulty by using gemstones on the black sunray dial with colours that complement and match the jewels on the bezel. Rose-gold plated hour and minute hands mark the time, matching the case, while a black hybrid rubber strap fixes the composition to the wrist. I really like how Carl F. Bucherer had the confidence to put a casual rubber strap on this piece as it keeps with the lighter, more playful theme of the Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral Paradise.
Limited to 18 pieces, the Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral Paradise unites a rainbow-themed design with interesting mechanics to provide a scintillating addition to the collection. The bright-coloured stones are a welcome enhancement that give the watch a more fun and youthful design, paving the way to a potentially younger clientele.
Further reading
https://www.carl-f-bucherer.com/
Technical specifications
- Model: Carl F. Bucherer Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral Paradise
- Reference: 00.10928.03.39.11
- Case: 18K rose gold, diameter 43.1mm, height 11.57mm, water resistance 3ATM (30 metres), sapphire crystal to front, exhibition caseback.
- Functions: floating tourbillon, seconds stop, hour, minute, small seconds
- Movement: caliber CFB T3000, 33 jewels, COSC-certified chronometer, power reserve 65 hours
- Strap: hybrid rubber strap with “brushed” texture and quick release system, 18 K rose gold pin lock folding clasp
- Price: On request
- Limited Edition: 18 pieces