Chanel J12 Ref H5697 Watch Review
The Chanel J12 Ref H5697 is the latest version of the iconic watch much loved by disciples of fashion. Angus Davies appraises this sultry black timepiece, paying close attention to its new self-winding movement, the Calibre 12.1, a certified chronometer (COSC) with some notable attributes.
Image – CHANEL Watches
Chanel Watch
Marketing professionals have a tendency to place individuals into groups. Age, location, socio-economic classification and gender are just some of the categories shown on pie charts and spreadsheets. In business circles, there is a propensity to place consumers in various boxes, making the assumption that every inhabitant of said box will behave in the same way.
However, in today’s society, there are an increasing number of people who don’t comply with accepted norms. Indeed, their behaviour does not fit with ‘the representative microcosm’ so beloved by marketing types.
In the world of watches, brands have always assumed they know what women desire. A quartz movement, a sprinkle of diamonds and a brightly hued strap are just some of the clumsy and, dare I say, patronising tactics intended to tempt today’s female buyer. The fact is, the watch market has become much more sophisticated, thereby challenging the thinking of marketing types.
For example, an increasing number of women choose to express their character by wearing so-called men’s watches, perhaps drawn to their appearance, functionality or type of mechanical movement. Likewise, some watches exhibit an androgynous quality and, why not? Put simply, what is wrong with a lady wearing a man’s watch and vice-versa?
To my shame, whenever I have seen the Chanel J12, invariably gracing feminine wrists, I have dismissed it as a lady’s watch and felt it to be unsuitable for any self-respecting alpha male. However, recently I have had cause to question my longstanding opinion.
Chanel J12 – originally a man’s watch
Jacques Helleu (1938-2007), a former artistic director of Chanel, chose to create a watch for himself. His idea was to create a timeless, sporty watch presented in a seductive shade of black. He sought inspiration from two domains he dearly loved, cars and sailing. An unabashed aesthete, he appreciated the numerous lines and contours found with race cars. He was also said to adore the ‘regal silhouettes of the America’s Cup racing class, the J12’. The name of the racing class provided the inspiration for the model’s moniker. Indeed, those three characters have since become synonymous with design and luxury.
The Chanel J12 was unveiled in 2000 and presented in a rich, becoming shade of black. Three years later, the brand unveiled its inaugural white model. This year represents the 20th anniversary since the initial J12 broke cover and yet it remains fresh and unsullied by the passage of time.
Although the J12 has proved a resounding success, the luxury marque has never ceased innovating new, contemporary models to join the J12 collection. Over the years, the brand has extended this collection to encompass various complications, gem-set pieces and different case sizes. However, while Chanel has released new versions of its iconic J12, it has always ensured that each new reference retains a strong likeness to Helleu’s original design. In fact, despite the subsequent passing of Jacques Helleu, Chanel’s legendary design prowess remains alive, manifest with each new creation bearing its logo.
Last year, the Chanel J12 received a few subtle enhancements, as well as a brand new ‘Manufacture’ movement, the Calibre 12.1. Recently, I spent time at the company’s UK Press Office, appraising a black ceramic version of the new J12 at close quarters.
Chanel J12 Ref H5697 dial
Often the colour of a watch dial is in stark contrast to its case, however, with the J12, Chanel chose to reject this accepted wisdom, instead employing black tones throughout. The brand’s decision to take a different path to others may at first sound foolhardy, but the stunning appearance of the J12 vindicates this brave approach.
Image – CHANEL Watches
With the advent of the latest specification Chanel J12 Ref H5697, the indexes have received a subtle makeover. Each Arabic numeral is presented in a new, cleaner typeface.
The hour and minute hands are a virtuous shade of white and now share the same waist measurements. Unusually, each hand incorporates a rectangular section of black Super-LumiNova, again daringly renouncing convention. The central sweep seconds hand has a prominent triangular tip and a lollipop counterweight.
The central area proclaims the famous name of the luxury Maison in ultra-crisp white text. Four lines, emanating from the centre of the dial, denote the cardinal points. This inner circular disc is framed with a chemin de fer, enhancing readability.
Chanel has expended much effort refining dial elements, mindful not to lose the very essence of the original J12. The text, ‘Swiss Made’ was previously positioned on the dial, but has now moved just a few millimetres to the adjacent flange. When looking at the dial in the past, the two words did not look out of place, however, this subtle change has further refined the already clean dialscape.
Every element of the dial has been refined to the nth degree, save for the date indication which does, ever so slightly, let the side the down. The date aperture, positioned at 4:30, reveals a black date disc, marked with white numerals. This necessitates skewing one’s head to read the indication. In addition, by situating the date between 4 and 5 o’clock, the three values appear squashed. I think a date display at 3 or 6 ‘clock, supplanting the hour marker as appropriate, would appear less congested. Nevertheless, I accept not everyone will share my view.
Chanel J12 Ref H5697 case
The Chanel J12 Ref H5697 has a diameter of 38 mm with a case thickness of 12.6 mm. Its scale should sate the desires of an ever-increasing number of female wearers who prefer to wear men’s models.
Image – CHANEL Watches
Chanel has replaced the steel caseback in favour of sapphire crystal, affording views of the self-winding movement within. While the high-end firm has chosen to update some elements, they continue to use ceramic for the case, albeit it is now one-piece.
The case is made using an elaborate, highly technical process and shares more in common with chemistry than conventional watchmaking. In this instance, the case is presented in a glossy shade of black, but the Maison also offers a white case option as well.
Ceramic is very hard, scratch-proof, corrosion-resistant and remains unaffected by UV light and temperature. Unlike some metals, ceramic is also hypoallergenic, providing a welcome solution for nickel allergy sufferers. One cautionary note is that unlike steel, ceramic may shatter if dropped onto a hard surface.
Many companies have embraced ‘Kaizen’ as a means of continuously improving working practices. However, while Chanel has embraced the concept of continuous improvement it has been very careful not to lose the essence of the 2000 original. Clearly, the strategy in the brand’s design department has been to embrace evolution not revolution. For example, the bezel has been reworked and now features 40 notches instead of 30, albeit only avid J12 fans will spot the difference.
Likewise, the width of the crown, along with its ceramic cabochon, has been reduced by a third and yet it remains simple to manipulate. The case is a tad thicker than its predecessor but is barely noticeable owing to a modified case profile. The bracelet has also received subtle modifications.
Chanel Calibre 12.1
Formerly, Chanel relied upon ETA, a subsidiary of the Swatch Group, for most of its movements. But, in January 2019, everything changed. Chanel acquired a 20% stake in Kenissi Manufacture, a Swiss manufacturer of automatic movements.
The Chanel J12 Ref H5697 is equipped with the Calibre 12.1, a self-winding movement, specially made for this model. The oscillating weight features a circular aperture, ‘one of the graphic signatures of CHANEL Haute Horlogerie’.
Chanel has chosen to shun the traditional Côtes de Genève motif, preferring straight vertical brush and colimaçon, imbuing the movement’s appearance with a sense of modernity. The Chanel J12 Ref H5697 is a certified chronometer (COSC). The lone spring barrel delivers an impressive 70 hours of autonomous operation and the movement features 28 jewels.
Image – CHANEL Watches
The balance has a frequency of 28,800 vph (4 Hz). A technical highlight that I am delighted to see on this model is the variable inertia balance. Most watches are fitted with an index adjuster (raquette) which alters the effective length of the hairspring and, by default, the rate. With a variable inertia balance, the rate is altered by adjusting the moment of inertia, often by tightening or loosening the timing screws fitted to the rim of the balance wheel. A variable inertia balance takes longer to set up, however it delivers superior precision. Moreover, the movement is less susceptible to positional errors. In this instance, Kenissi Manufacture has gone even further, positioning the timing screws in-board, recessed within the rim of the balance wheel. This small detail reduces air turbulence when the balance wheel is oscillating to and fro, again aiding precision.
Chanel J12 Ref H5697 – closing remarks
In the world of watch journalism, the term ‘icon’ is probably used too often, however, in the case of the Chanel J12, the term is justly employed. This presents the designer with a potential headache, namely ‘deliver change without losing the allure of the original’.
I have always felt a degree of sympathy for those poor people in Zuffenhausen, Germany who are tasked with redesigning the legendary 911 every few years. I suspect their brief features the words,’ subtle’, ‘refine’, ‘distil’ and ‘evolve’, but most of all ‘don’t mess it up’. No doubt, the creative souls based at Chanel HQ must have some empathy for Porsche’s design team.
Thankfully, the Chanel J12 is alive and well. The team of designers have deftly upheld their brief and the resultant styling is just a bit sharper.
While the dial breaks convention, it is highly legible, as well as supremely elegant. The case looks like no other, wonderfully resplendent in gleaming black and destined to complement a couture ensemble. Its case offers a myriad of qualities and the scratch-resistant surfaces should retain their showroom-fresh appearance for years to come. Furthermore, the bracelet flexes beautifully, delivering an impressive ergonomic union with wearer’s wrist.
However, the pièce de résistance is undoubtedly the Calibre 12.1. It proffers impressive levels of accuracy, denoted by COSC credentials. The movement is attractively finished, sidestepping traditional Geneva waves in favour of contemporary forms of decoration. The single barrel delivers an impressive 70 hours of autonomy. But, most of all, the movement is endowed with a variable inertia balance with timing screws positioned in-board.
There is a foolish, yet widespread assumption that beauty and intelligence are mutually exclusive. The Chanel J12 Ref H5697 effectively dispels this misguided notion. The model is not gender-specific, but simply an elegant timepiece relevant to any person who appreciates style and fine watchmaking.
Sadly, my arms resemble Doric columns, making the 38 mm case appear a tad small for my left wrist, however, for many ‘normal’ men, the J12 would perfectly meet their requirements. Furthermore, If Chanel were to a release a 42mm option, I would definitely be at the front of the queue, seeking a period of hands-on evaluation.
Lastly, the Chanel J12 makes me chuckle. I cannot help thinking of all those poor befuddled marketing types with a penchant for extrapolation. It must be increasingly difficult for them to pigeonhole J12 customers. Perhaps the best advice is to simply file wearers under the heading ‘shrewd and stylish’.
Thank you Chanel.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: Chanel J12
- Reference: H5697
- Case: Black ceramic; diameter 38 mm; Height 12.6 mm; water resistance 20 ATM (200 metres); sapphire crystals to front and caseback
- Functions: Hours; minutes; central sweep seconds; date
- Movement: Manufacture Calibre 12.1; self-winding movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz); 28 jewels; power reserve 75 hours
- Strap: Black ceramic with steel triple folding buckle
- Price: £5200 (RRP as of 16.2.2020)