Chopard Alpine Eagle 33 Vals Grey Watch Review
The Chopard Alpine Eagle 33 Val Grey is housed in a sumptuous 33 mm case formed of Lucent Steel with ethical 18-carat yellow gold. The Val Grey dial features diamond-set hour markers and gilded numerals, while the bezel unites yellow gold and an additional quotient of diamonds. Endowed with the Chopard 09.01-C, a self-winding COSC-certified movement, the watch delivers wearer convenience and precision. US-based Meehna Goldsmith provides an overview of this recently-released model.
Chopard Alpine Eagle & the St. Moritz
The Alpine Eagle holds a historic place in Chopard’s collection. Released in 2019, the watch was the brand’s re-entry into the luxury sports watch market after discontinuing the St. Moritz in 1986. Since the Alpine Eagle wouldn’t exist without the St. Moritz, let’s take a quick trip down memory lane for context.
The St. Moritz debuted in 1980 and was the first watch designed by Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, now co-president of Chopard. He was only a young lad of 22 when he not only proposed the brand’s first luxury sports watch – but in a stainless steel case! Blasphemy. Up until that time, Chopard only used precious metals. Karl-Friedrich’s father resisted the radical idea because it went outside Chopard’s brand identity, but fortunately he eventually succumbed to his son’s persistence.
With its integrated bracelet, screwed bezel and brushed metal finish, the St. Moritz became a popular wrist accessory. Designed to be worn on the ski slopes during the day and at elegant parties at night, it captured the jet-set vibe of the 1980s. Despite its success, Chopard discontinued the model, leaning more into high horology with the L.U.C. collection and jewellery watches with the Happy Diamonds collection.
Chopard Alpine Eagle was released in 2019
In 2019, history repeated itself. Karl-Fritz, Karl-Friedrich’s son, revisited the idea of a luxury sports watch in the catalogue and was instrumental in the introduction of the Alpine Eagle. An evolution of the St. Moritz, the Alpine Eagle wasn’t just updated styling, it also represented an updated brand philosophy. Co-designed by Karl-Friedrich, this model demonstrated the Maison’s commitment to protecting human rights and the environment in the production of its pieces.
Several of the inaugural Alpine Eagle pieces were formed of Lucent Steel, a proprietary alloy composed of 70% recycled steel. This latter figure has now increased to 80%. In 2018, Chopard publicly announced that, going forward, it would only use ethically sourced gold. The use of recycled steel was a bonus surprise.
Chopard Alpine Eagle 33 Vals Grey – inspiration
During the design process, Karl-Friedrich, an avid conservationist, found inspiration in the white-tailed eagle, which had become endangered in the Alps. On all the Alpine Eagle models, you’ll see the embossed radial pattern on the brass dial that resembles the eagle’s iris. As a symbol, the eagle represents nature, sharpness, clarity and focus. It’s a visual metaphor for perception and insight.
Since its launch, the Alpine Eagle collection expanded to include bicolour pieces composed of Lucent Steel and rose gold, but never with the bold radiance of yellow gold. This new Alpine Eagle 33 marks the first time Chopard has combined these two metals. Against this backdrop, the “Vals Grey” colour of the eagle-iris dial adds depth and shimmer. More than an aesthetic choice, the colour is also a nod to alpine architecture, drawing inspiration from the silvery reflections of quartzite stones found in the Swiss village of Vals.
Chopard Alpine Eagle 33 Vals Grey – dial
The dial is punctuated by diamond-set hour markers and gilded applied numerals at the cardinal points. Gilded baton-type hour and minute hands, enhanced with Grade XI Super-LumiNova, glide round marking the time, while a gilded arrow-tipped seconds hand, with a counterweight shaped like an eagle’s feather, counts off the seconds. Nestled within the yellow gold bezel that incorporates eight functional indexed screws, is a dusting of diamonds that look like twinkling snowflakes.
Chopard Alpine Eagle 33 Vals Grey – case
The Chopard Alpine Eagle 33 is housed in a round Lucent Steel case that features raised stylised flanks, while the bezel and crown are executed in ethical 18-carat gold. The integrated bracelet, which secures with a triple folding clasp, continues the same colour scheme by using Lucent Steel links with the central cap in ethical 18-carat yellow gold. Make sure to notice the compass rose engraved on the crown. A symbol traditionally used on maps and compasses, it represented the ability to find one’s way in uncharted territory. This symbol also reflects the idea of the eagle navigating and exploring the peaks with foresight and purpose.
Chopard self-winding Calibre 09.01-C
Within the Alpine Eagle 33 mm ticks the Chopard self-winding Calibre 09.01-C, which can be viewed through the sapphire case back. It’s a petite, self-winding 8-ligne diameter movement with a 42-hour power reserve. This calibre has the added functionality of a stop-seconds, elevating the sophistication of the movement while allowing for precise time-setting. In addition, this little engine is one of the smallest to be COSC certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute.
Chopard Alpine Eagle 33 Vals Grey – closing remarks
The Alpine Eagle 33 in Lucent Steel and ethical 18-carat yellow gold adds a striking new combination to the collection. The ‘Vals Grey’ dial colour, achieved through a galvanic process, perfectly complements the case and case band in a cohesive whole. The watch has a bold but feminine vibe, drawing the eye in to discover quietly without flexing. The Alpine Eagle 33 stands for conservation over consumption and substance over status. With the new combination of Lucent Steel and ethical 18-carat yellow gold, it’s another testament to the fact that horology can be beautiful without stripping the earth of its beauty.
Further reading
Technical specification
- Model: Chopard Alpine Eagle 33 Vals Grey
- Reference: 298617-4001
- Case: Lucent Steel and ethical 18-carat yellow gold, diameter 33 mm, height 7.95 mm, water resistance 5 ATM (50 metres), sapphire crystal to front, exhibition caseback.
- Functions: hours, minutes, centre seconds
- Movement: Calibre 09.01-C, self-winding movement, frequency 25,200 vph (3.5 Hz), 27 jewels, power reserve 42 hours, certified-chronometer (COSC)
- Strap: bracelet in Lucent Steel with central cap in ethical 18-carat yellow gold, triple folding clasp
- Price: £20,300 (RRP as of 9.6.2025)