Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT

Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT Watch Review

The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT was launched at Watches & Wonders 2024. Recently, Angus Davies got ‘hands-on’ with the openworked model. Housed in Grade 5 titanium and endowed with the L.U.C Calibre 96-17-S, an automatic micro-rotor movement, this reference joins the Swiss marque’s ever-expanding and highly successful collection of elegant sports watches.

Chopard watch

Should you peruse the ‘politician’s bible’, you will find some fascinating terms. Just scroll through the index with an outstretched finger. Move past ‘expenses’, ‘pivot’ and ‘self-interest’ and eventually you will find the word ‘spin’. It is a term that is now modern-day political parlance and refers to deliberately changing the public’s perception of a situation by using a carefully constructed, often biased, message.

As a former marketing professional, I’m aware that ‘spin’ can also be used to make the consumer perceive products differently. Few practitioners of this dark art would ever say a product is a commercial flop. On the contrary, they will look for some form of positive message and then amplify it with nice imagery and lashings of superlatives. However, horophiles needn’t worry. When a watch is billed as ‘hugely successful’ or even described as an ‘icon’, there is a tip to determine the veracity of such claims.

Look at said product collection and if it is a commercial flop, then the number of references are unlikely to increase. Indeed, few watch brands would feel inclined to throw good money after bad. Conversely, when an inaugural collection is enlarged with the addition of new dial colours, case materials and complications, then it is a strong indication of success.

Chopard Alpine Eagle depuis 2019

Back in 2019, Chopard unveiled the Alpine Eagle, a collection of elegant sports models. At first, the Alpine Eagle comprised three-handers equipped with a date, offered in a choice of case sizes and materials. The timing of the model’s release coincided with the market’s insatiable lust for high-end sports watches equipped with integrated bracelets. At the time I remember thinking the Alpine Eagle had all the necessary attributes for greatness. And ultimately, my predictions came to pass with the Swiss marque going on to release chronographs, models endowed with high-frequency movements, a flying tourbillon, new case materials and additional dial colours; proof indeed that the Alpine Eagle is a resounding success.

At Watches & Wonders 2024, Chopard released the Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT, a model featuring an openworked movement presented centre-stage. Despite openworked or skeleton watches dating back to the 18th century, this model looked new and modern.

Recently, I had the opportunity to wear the Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT over a three week period and evaluate its composition at close quarters. I detail my observations hereafter, but I can already state with absolute candour, this watch promises to be another success for the Geneva-based marque.

Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT dial

Rhodium-plated, baton-style hour and minute hands enunciate the prevailing time. The indexes are affixed to the chapter ring and cantilever over the dial. Once again, they are rhodium-plated and appear to float above the openworked movement, stylishly playing with depths without impairing legibility. Both the hands and indexes are lined with Super-LumiNova, aiding readability in dim light conditions.

Openworked watches are nothing new; however, Chopard has created a contemporary expression of the genre, conceiving a look that is both fresh and original.

In yesteryear, sections of mainplate were cut with a series of handsaws to remove extraneous material and then drawn with files to create crisp apertures. Due consideration had to be given to the proximity of jewel beds and wheels, especially the overall torsional rigidity of the movement. The resultant openings would embrace different shapes and in some cases appeared haphazardly arranged.

However, the Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT is different. Using cutting-edge CAD and CNC machines, the execution of the movement is optimised to retain rigidity and, by default, reliability. The mainplate incorporates several apertures arranged in neat concentric arcs, imbuing the movement with a sense of order. The mainplate and bridges shun traditional perlage and Côtes de Genève in favour of sandblasted treatment. This muted grey finish serves as a foil, allowing various movement components to shine. Indeed, the resultant dialscape is punctuated with red, gold and silver hues, bestowing a glorious aesthetic. And yet, despite the plethora of fascinating details on display, the Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT conveys the hours and minutes succinctly and devoid of ambiguity.

Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT case

Measuring 41 mm in diameter, the Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT proffers wrist presence without appearing cumbersome. Formed of Grade 5 titanium, the housing of this slender watch is light, corrosion-resistant and hypoallergenic.

An additional benefit of Grade 5 titanium, when contrasted with cheaper Grade 2 titanium, is that it can be polished to a resplendent gleam. Throughout the composition of this watch, Chopard has repeatedly juxtaposed highly polished and straight brushed surfaces, bestowing a becoming contrast that reinforces the perception of luxury.

The bracelet is particularly worthy of discussion. Back in 2019, I visited Chopard’s HQ in Geneva and observed the making of cases and bracelets for the Alpine Eagle. The bracelet is an intricate arrangement of links and raised square sections that are retained from underneath by a series of screws. While subscribing to the same design as the first Lucent Steel models, the bracelet affixed to the Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT is even more challenging to realise due to the use of Grade 5 titanium, a much harder material.

Each bracelet link wonderfully articulates with its neighbour, conferring a cosseting wrist fit. Moreover, the design, the low mass of Grade 5 titanium and the modest dimensions of the Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT collaborate to heighten wearer comfort further. Indeed, such is the unobtrusive nature of this watch that at times I forgot I was wearing it.

Chopard L.U.C Calibre 96-17-S

While the in-house movements equipping many Alpine Eagle models are made at Fleurier Ebauches, this watch features the L.U.C Calibre 96-17-S made at the nearby Chopard Manufacture. I have visited both sites and can attest that the quality of movements made in each facility is highly impressive; however, as many watch aficionados already know, L.U.C is regarded as the ultimate expression of Chopard ownership. In fact, in my opinion, some of the L.U.C calibres are the finest available and come with commensurate finishing.

The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT is fitted with the L.U.C Calibre 96-17-S, an automatic movement equipped with a micro-rotor. This means of harnessing the natural motion of the wearer’s wrist remains comparatively rare. It is difficult to tension a mainspring purely from a small oscillating mass, albeit in this instance, the micro-rotor is made from ultra-dense 22-carat yellow gold. However, since unveiling its inaugural movement, the Calibre L.U.C 96.01-L, back in 1996, Chopard has produced several automatic micro-rotor movements, amassing much expertise in this field of horology.

Unlike a ‘regular’ automatic movement where the oscillating mass is positioned above the bridges, the micro-rotor sits within a recess, flush with neighbouring plates, thereby mitigating overall thickness. Indeed, the L.U.C Calibre 96-17-S is just 3.3 mm thick and the watch is just 8.03 mm in height contributing to the overall impressive levels of wearer comfort.

A further reason for opting for a micro-rotor is that it confers superior views of the various movement components at play, arguably the very reason for selecting an openworked watch. Moreover, when it comes to providing opportunities for horological voyeurism, the Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT doesn’t disappoint. This is a watch that invites the wearer to view the balance wheel oscillating to and fro, the hairspring pulsing with life and the pallet lever repeatedly kissing the silver-toned escape wheel.

The L.U.C Calibre 96-17-S features ‘Chopard Twin Technology’, a term the brand uses to describe two stacked barrels. This allows the watch to run autonomously for up to 65 hours, an impressive figure considering the model’s slender profile. Furthermore, the fitment of two barrels instead of one provides a more linear supply of force to the escapement, aiding rate stability.

Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT – closing remarks

For most of my life, I’ve obsessed about watches and I’ve even been known to dismantle an old movement or two (note to Chopard – no Alpine Eagle was harmed in the creation of this article). The notion of small parts working in concert to impart meaning is magical. Indeed, an openworked watch shares many of its secrets, a characteristic that indulges my innate inquisitiveness.

Unfortunately, a problem inherent with many skeleton watches is that the indications can sometimes become lost among a plethora of exposed parts. Thankfully, the Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT wonderfully sidesteps this issue.

Firstly, the arcing apertures gracing the dial grant sight of components without inhibiting readability. Secondly, Chopard has eschewed traditional perlage and Côtes de Genève, instead favouring a contemporary sandblasted finish that provides a muted backdrop, thereby accentuating the hour and minute hands.

While the L.U.C Calibre 96-17-S is expressed in a neoteric style, it is still beautifully finished with sunray motif on the barrel, straight graining on the keyless works and cerclage adorning the wheels.

Perhaps most notable of all, the modest case diameter, the slender profile of the case, the overall design and the widespread use of Grade 5 titanium collaborate to deliver a peerless ergonomic relationship. Indeed, I can honestly say this watch is one of the most comfortable timepieces I have ever worn, a statement I make free of ‘spin’ and with absolute sincerity.