Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono 2022
The Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono was first unveiled in 2020. All three inaugural models were endowed with a raptor-themed dial, a case made from Lucent Steel A223 and a superb in-house movement, the Chopard 03-05-C. Originally supplied on steel bracelets, Chopard has recently introduced two references presented on rubber straps. Angus Davies looks at these latest models while reflecting on the extraordinary success of the Alpine Eagle collection.
The emergence of the luxury sports watch
Until the 1970s, watches tended to be either formal or utilitarian objects (eg divers’ watches or sporty chronographs). However, in the 1970s, the boundaries between formal and casual attire and between classical dress watches and utilitarian models suddenly became blurred.
The 1970s saw the emergence of a new type of sports watch, capable of straddling the worlds of lounge suits and jeans. Moreover, stainless steel had been to Swiss finishing school and assumed an air of grandeur akin to noble metals such as gold and platinum.
The Chopard St. Moritz
Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Co-President of Chopard, recognising the paradigmatic shift taking place at the time masterminded a new form of watch, the luxury sports watch. In 1980, the Genevan Maison released the St. Moritz, named after the high-end, supremely glamorous, Alpine resort.
The choice of name was inspired, it evoked thoughts of chic individuals wearing ski apparel by day and dinner jackets at night. Eminently versatile, the Chopard St. Moritz always looked sophisticated and at ease with its surroundings.
The design of the St. Moritz model subscribed to Louis Sullivan’s philosophy of ‘form follows function’. For example, the bezel featured eight screws securing it in place and also served as a stylistic feature. Chopard also treated ‘steel as if it were gold’, the case featured brushed and polished surfaces, the bracelet was integrated and movements included both automatic and quartz models. The decision to make the St. Moritz was courageous. While rival firms had also released their own interpretation of luxury sports watch, there were no guarantees this genre of watch would remain popular. As time has shown, the fondness for the luxury sports watch has never waned.
The Alpine Eagle – the inaugural models
In 2019, having reflected on the St. Moritz and its notable success, Chopard released a new luxury sports watch, the ‘Alpine Eagle’. In this instance, the Genevan marque was inspired by nature. It sought to capture the majesty of eagles soaring over the Swiss Alps, harnessing the thermals as they serenely glide.
Chopard has referenced these imperial creatures with a number of aesthetic elements, including dials that emulate an eagle’s iris and a seconds hand equipped with a fletching-like counterweight, replicating an eagle’s feather.
Similar to the St. Moritz, the Alpine Eagle employs a combination of Roman numerals and simple batons to denote the hours. Likewise, the bezel is, once again, endowed with functional screws and the bracelet is integrated within the case. And when it comes to the bracelet, Chopard expended an incredible amount of effort crafting an elegant means of uniting the watch with its wearer. Shortly after the release of the inaugural models, I wrote two in-depth features on the Alpine Eagle, one of which relates to the habillage of this model.
Both the case and bracelet are made from stainless steel, but Chopard did not settle for the customary 316L or 904L grades of steel. Instead, the brand worked with Voestalpine, an Austrian company, specialising in cutting-edge steel technology. After four years of research and development, a new generation of steel was produced, Lucent Steel A223.
This new type of steel is made from 70% recycled steel and is similar to surgical stainless steel, hence it is anti-allergenic. Lucent Steel A223 is 50% harder than regular stainless steel and less prone to scratching. Furthermore, its purer structure bestows the metal with a white appearance.
The first versions of the Alpine Eagle came in two sizes, 36mm and 41mm. Both models were equipped with COSC-certified automatic movements, crafted in the company’s Fleurier Ebauches facility.
The Alpine Eagle XL Chrono 2020
A strong indication of a product’s success is when a brand chooses to expand a range of models. In 2020, after receiving a positive reaction to the inaugural versions of the Alpine Eagle, Chopard released the Alpine Eagle XL Chrono.
Would-be wearers were presented with a choice of an Aletsch Blue dial or a Pitch Black dial, both paired with a Lucent Steel A223 case and matching bracelet. In addition, a third model, again with a Pitch Black dial, was released, but this time it was housed in a bi-metallic case made from Lucent Steel A223 and 18-carat ethical rose gold. This luxurious combination extended to the bracelet and clasp, with the noble metal employed exclusively on the bezel and crown.
The Chopard 03.05-C
Beyond its prepossessing face and sculpted torso, the Alpine Eagle XL Chrono was equipped with a sublime movement, the Chopard 03-05-C. Once again, produced in-house at the firm’s Fleurier facility, this self-winding chronograph movement is packed with features including some very impressive patented know-how.
The COSC-certified movement features a flyback function. With a regular chronograph, the stopwatch is actuated by pressing the pusher at 2 o’clock and, thereafter, halted by pressing the same pusher again. In order to reset the registers (return to zero), the wearer has merely to press the pusher at 4 o’clock. All very simple and logical. However, imagine if you needed to time consecutive events, suddenly the index figure would have to act very quickly to start, stop, reset and then start again. It’s a challenge even for the most dexterous individual.
A flyback chronograph takes the hassle out of timing consecutive events. It can be used like a conventional chronograph, but its flyback function proffers added convenience. Assuming the chronograph is running, the wearer merely needs to press the push-piece at 4 o’clock and in the blink of an eye the chronograph stops, resets and starts from zero. The flyback function on this particular movement is patented and employs three pivoting hammers with elastic arms in order to return the counters to zero.
Watch aficionados will be delighted to hear that the Chopard 03-05-C is a fully integrated movement featuring a column wheel and vertical coupling. This endows the pushers with a creamy smoothness. Also, when the chronograph is actuated, the central chronograph seconds hand commences its journey without hesitation and devoid of stutter. Furthermore, Chopard has equipped the movement with a patented unidirectional gearing system that ‘prevents energy losses while ensuring rapid winding, a function much appreciated in the inherently energy-hungry chronograph category.
The oscillating weight is partially openworked and made of tungsten. The balance has a frequency of 28,800 vph (4Hz) and the movement has a power reserve of 60 hours.
The Alpine Eagle XL Chrono 2022
Earlier this year at Watches & Wonders, Chopard unveiled two additional versions of the Alpine Eagle XL Chrono. Clearly, the success of the eagle-themed model shows no signs of diminishing.
Familiarity is the order of the day. The 44mm case, once again, is formed of Lucent Steel A223. The Aletsch Blue and Pitch Black dial make a repeat performance, while the tried and trusted Chopard 03-05-C is on hand, delivering another chronometric performance.
However, this year’s Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono eschews the intricately engineered bracelets found on previous models, favouring colour-coordinated blue and black straps instead. Each strap features a titanium insert and is secured with a pin buckle formed of Lucent Steel A223.
The differences may sound inconsequential, but in reality, they’ve endued the Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono with a completely different look. Arguably, more casual with an added note of sportiness, these latest models deliver something new.
Closing remarks
Throughout Chopard’s history, the company has considered the needs and wants of the watch-buying public, crafting watches that sate these requirements and engender passion in the process. Indeed, it is this attentive approach that led Karl-Friedrich Scheufele to conceive the St. Moritz when he was just 22 years of age. This former model fused elegance with day-to-day versatility and practicality.
The Alpine Eagle has perpetuated the legend of the St. Moritz and now appeals to a new generation of brand devotees. This is manifest with the success of the inaugural Alpine Eagle and subsequent iterations of the raptor-inspired model.
If I’m honest, I can’t say whether I prefer the Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono fitted with a steel bracelet or a rubber strap, however, like all watch enthusiasts, I certainly appreciate having a greater choice.
Further reading
Technical specification
- Model: Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono
- Reference: 298609-3003 (Lucent Steel A223 with Aletsch Blue dial)
- Reference: 298609-3004 (Lucent Steel A223 with Pitch Black dial)
- Case: Lucent Steel A223, diameter 44.0mm, height 13.15mm, sapphire crystal to front and exhibition case back
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, semi-instantaneous date, stop-seconds function, tachymeter, chronograph
- Movement: Chopard 03.05-C, self-winding movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz); 310 components; 45 jewels, power reserve 60 hours, certified chronometer (COSC)
- Bracelet: Blue or black rubber strap with titanium insert, pin buckle in Lucent Steel A223
- Price: £15,700 (RRP as of 16.8.2022)