Chopard Imperiale Flying Tourbillon
The Chopard Imperiale Flying Tourbillon unites the worlds of Haute Horlogerie and Haute Joaillerie, creating a pulchritudinous beauty befitting the silver screen. The model is a nominated timepiece for the forthcoming GPHG. US-based Meehna Goldsmith shares her thoughts on this ultra high-end expression of watchmaking.
Chopard Red Carpet collection
Very rarely can a watch brand claim expertise in high watchmaking and fine jewellery. Usually, they outsource the gem work to specialist artisans to co-create the vision. Not so with Chopard. All that know-how is housed under one roof. Look no further than the Imperiale Flying Tourbillon to see both talents on display.
In terms of jewellery, Chopard is one of the reigning red-carpet royals. In fact, it has a Red Carpet collection inspired by cinema. Stars such as Julia Roberts, Soo Joo Park and Eva Longoria promenaded around the Cannes Film Festival this year draped in Chopard’s juicy jewels. I dare say some of that sparkle may have even upstaged the leading ladies.
Haute Horlogerie
I don’t think anyone would question Chopard’s position in the top-tier of Haute Joaillerie. Sceptics, however, might baulk at putting Chopard in the same class of watchmaker as say a Vacheron Constantin or A. Lange & Sohne. Let’s examine that assumption.
Chopard depuis 1860
Did you know that Chopard took its first breath as a watchmaker when Louis-Ulysse Chopard opened the doors in 1860? The company stayed in the family until 1963 when it was purchased by Karl Scheufele III, a German goldsmith and watchmaker. Still independently owned, Chopard is now under the stewardship of the next generation. In 2001, brother and sister Karl-Friedrich Scheufele and Caroline Scheufele became Co-presidents. Caroline also has the title of ‘Artistic Director’ of the house, while Karl- Friedrich is the President of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud.
If you haven’t heard of La Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud, Karl-Friedrich’s pet project, check out these extremely limited production chronometric treasures that feature such technical delights as a fusée and chain, deadbeat seconds and remontoir d’égalité. No expense spared, no shortcuts. And, if you’re into finishing – as I am – you won’t be disappointed. We’re talking Greubel Forsey levels here. Really.
Karl-Friedrich is the impetus behind the fine watchmaking division of Chopard. He wanted the brand to compete as a high-end Manufacture, not just an assembler of watches from outsourced parts, which it was once doing. In 1996, Chopard realised the dream with the introduction of the Chopard L.U.C. 1860, powered by the in-house calibre 1.96. The sniffy critics were quite impressed.
Chopard – impressive watchmaking credentials
By now you should be convinced that Chopard has some pretty impressive credentials in the watchmaking arena. Within this context, let’s take a look at the Imperiale Flying Tourbillon. The brand introduced the Imperiale collection in 1994 and subsequently relaunched it in 2010. Designed for women, the Imperiale line was more prone to strut its stuff with livery than mechanics.
Chopard Imperiale Flying Tourbillon – L.U.C Calibre 96.24-C
With the introduction of the Tourbillon, the Imperiale collection shows it can have equally as much substance as avant-garde style. Chopard introduced its flying tourbillon in the men’s L.U.C Flying T Twin watch in 2019. One of the slimmest movements in its class at just 3.30mm high, L.U.C Calibre 96.24-C incorporates a stop-seconds function, a feature very rarely seen on a tourbillon. What this means is, when the crown is pulled out to set the watch, the seconds hand halts. When the crown is pushed back in, the seconds hand re-engages, granting down-to-the-second accuracy.
The Chopard Imperiale Tourbillon is also highly precise an attribute backed up with official chronometer certification from COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres), the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute.
Chopard Imperiale Flying Tourbillon – Poinçon de Genève
The Chopard Imperiale Flying Tourbillon, the first tourbillon in the Imperiale collection, has even more bragging rights. Through the exhibition back, you’ll see the prestigious Poinçon de Genève, a seal given for a certain standard of excellence in construction, craftsmanship, finishing and reliability. The Imperiale Tourbillon uses the Chopard Twin technology of two stacked barrels to give a hearty 65-hours of running time. By employing two barrels instead of one, the force serving the escapement is more consistent, contributing to the model’s chronometric performance. Reinforcing the sense of glamour, the movement features a platinum micro-rotor paved with diamonds.
Chopard Imperiale Flying Tourbillon – a lotus flower
On the Imperial Flying Tourbillon’s dial, a lotus flower composed of mother-of-pearl marquetry opens its petals against a sparkly midnight-blue sky composed of aventurine glass. Within the curved petals of the flower, another one opens, studded with a halo of diamonds. The whimsical tourbillon provides the centrepiece, whirling away where the flower’s pistil would be.
Chopard Imperiale Flying Tourbillon – upholding the Imperiale design codes
The Chopard Imperiale Flying Tourbillon keeps the codes of the collection with the dagger-shaped skeleton hands and the case lugs resembling ancient columns. Housed in a 36mm 18-carat white gold case with the bezel and lugs set with diamonds, this time-only watch is wound with a lotus-shaped crown set with diamonds. A blue alligator leather strap with an 18-carat white gold pin buckle set with diamonds fits the watch to the wrist.
Among the very best in horology as well as jewellery
If you appreciate the jewellery arts in horology but don’t want to sacrifice mechanics – or vice versa – then the Imperiale Flying Tourbillon hits the sweet spot. Limited to eight pieces, it stands testament to Chopard’s mastery of technique and style, and shows that the brand can compete among the very best in horology as well as jewellery.
Further reading
Technical specification
- Model: Chopard Imperiale Flying Tourbillon
- Reference: 385389-1001
- Case: ethical 18-carat white gold, diameter 36mm, height 9.12mm, sapphire crystal to front and exhibition case back
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds on the flying tourbillon carriage, stop seconds function
- Movement: L.U.C Calibre 96.24-C, self-winding movement, frequency 25,200 vph (3.5Hz), 25 jewels, power reserve 65 hours, certified chronometer (COSC), Poinçon de Genève
- Strap in shiny blue alligator leather. Pin buckle in ethical 18-carat white gold set with diamonds
- Price upon request
- Limited Edition: 8 pieces